Question about Jenn-Air JED8430 Electric Cooktop

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Dual cooktop element stays on constantly at most control settings

We have a JED8430 cooktop and have lost control of the heating at most control settings. For any setting above about 3 on the inner coil, the inner coil comes on continuously and ditto for the dual-coil settings when they are above about 4. In the latter case, the inner and outer coils are always synchronous...even in malfunction. Which part has gone bad? and which part is responsible for generating the on/off cycles that control the heat applied. Are the cycle generating signals and the corresponding closing and opening contacts on the same part or different parts?

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  • vdhart Jan 06, 2009

    The only "answer so far was not definitive. Is this what you pay for to get an "expert" opinion? C'mon! I want to hear from someone with hands-on experience!

  • vdhart Jan 06, 2009

    Thanks, Vanni. But I need a bit of clarification. According to my schematics, the dual burner has no infinite switch; rather, the analogous part seems to be called a 'dual control'. Is this the part to be replaced? Also, on my schematic, there is no explicit connection between the dual control (or infinite switch) and the solenoid (or whatever) that controls the "hi limit" switch that is responsible for the burner cycling. Does this control line originate from the dual control (or infinite switch)?

  • vdhart Jan 06, 2009

    Mohammed387 is way off base. I asked a reasonable question and got a crazy answer. Again, the problem is with the dual element's function and I am trying to decide which part needs replacing. I do not want guessers to answer!



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Bridge Element
Combines two or three elements into one large cooking area which is ideal for oversized cooking.
Coil Heating Elements
Provide consistent and even heat on cooktop with a plug-in element that is removable for easy cleaning.

Control Placement
Cooktops have burner controls either in the center or on the sides of the surface of the cooktop.

Control Type
Controls can be electronic (digital touch pads) or manual (push-button or rotary knobs).

Cooking surface installed in a countertop or island. The cooktop can have coil or smooth top burner configurations.

Downdraft Exhaust
Available on some cooktops, they are similar in function to a range hood. A fan draws smoke and odors down into the cooking unit and disperses them outdoors through a venting system.

Dual Size Ribbon Element
Offers a convenient choice of using two different sized elements, depending on the size of the pan.

Electronic Touch Controls
An electronic touch-control cooktop has no knobs and is available on electric cooktops. This type of cooktop offers other features as well:

  • If an unoccupied element is left on, sensors in the cooktop will turn off the element.
  • Sensors adjust the size of the element to the size of the pan being used.
  • The control-lock feature for the elements is a safety feature to prevent accidental activation.
  • A digital reminder timer alerts you when the cooking time is complete.Ribbon Heating Elements
    Provides consistent heat from elements beneath the smooth surface, which is directed straight up to the pan for high-speed warm-up and even heating.
    Standard sizes for U.S. cooktops are 24", 30", 36", and 45". Professional series cooktops are available in these sizes: 30", 36", 42", 48", and 60".

    The outside material of the cooktop or the appliance itself. Glass, porcelain, brushed chrome, and stainless steel are the most common.

    Tri-Ring Element
    Accommodates various-sized pots or pans for the ultimate in cooking versatility.

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

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Need to know more about your problems. are you just having problems with the large or small burners? is it happening on all your burners or just one size or just one burner?
it is possible that you may have a switch problem but i would guess that you are just having problems when you use a certain pan.
meaning that you may have a pan that is not flat on the bottom. check the pan by putting a ruler on the bottom of the pan and see if it is flat. of not it wont heat properly and the burners wont work right.
when the burners are set to "high" where the switch, "clicks" on, then the burner should stay on al the time, glowing, any other position it will cycle on and off.
if the burner cycles on and off when set to high then your pan is not drawing the heat from the burner and the "sensor" will shut off the burner until it cools off.
try that ruler test and also try a different pan and different burner to see if they all work the same.
then send me a msg back and i will go further from that.

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

  • Tom Zwiebel
    Tom Zwiebel Jan 06, 2009

    sorry but i didnt see you respond to my questions about which burner and what types of failure you are having.

    with any of the burners, and the dual burner, the infinite heat switch
    is the control. if your wiring diagram shows it being a cycle switch or
    whatever, it is an infinite switch, the dual burners have a special
    switch to control either the small or both small and large sections of
    the burner. either way that is what controls the heat cycles. if you
    are only having problems with one burner then the switch is the only
    some times the switch can cause the burner to either heat too much or not at all.
    the limit switch is just a safety of the burner and will only cycle the burner off if it is getting too hot and thats why i was asking if your pans were flat, but you didnt answer that one.
    from what you said to the other posters here i would guess you do have a problem with the dual switch for the large burner.
    next time you want a fast response then send an email response as i am not just reading your question.
    the others that answered your question were not top techs and just people that give responses to anything and not real people who have experience to your repair needs.
    sorry but we do our best to get back as our time allows.

  • Tom Zwiebel
    Tom Zwiebel Jan 28, 2009

    i tried to send you a response to the email i just got, but i dont see that answer showing up, so i will sum it up again here.
    you do have a problem with the infinite heat switch for your right front burner. it is the dual control as listed on your wiring diagram.
    when these type of switches fail they will not be able to control the amount of on and off time to regulate the heat from the burner. they also do make a clicking sound when they cycle and that is normal, but what you are having for a problem is the percentage of on and off times is not working properly.

    the part you need is #12002125 you can get it online or locally for about 30 bucks.

    to replace it, first shut off the breaker to be sure you dont have any power going to the unit. then remove the cook top from your countertop. remove all knobs,then take off the screws that hold the glass top to the metal bottom frame. then with the glass off you can get to the 2 screws that hold the switch in place. make sure you have the new switch with you as the wires need to be put back in the exact same place or you could short out the new switch. might even be good to take a close up picture of the old switch and wire colors so you dont get it wrong.
    hope this helps you to get it fixed and if you have any more questions, just reply back to me with an email.
    thanks tom


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You can use the cooktop wire for the new vent fan.

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

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Hii you need to chance your infinite switch which turns it on and off..

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

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Though im not completely familiar with appliances, but If i were to have this happen to me, I would contact the manufacturer for troubleshooting help from a live person, or for a repair.

Posted on Dec 31, 2008

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