Question about Panasonic PT-53WX54 53" Rear Projection HDTV

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Code6 on panny pt53x54j built 2004

Would appreciate any help.would like to know how to resolve.i can handle a soldering iron,and can follow schematic.

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  • shuttle5 Jan 12, 2009

    I FOUND ,THE YOKE CAP C1504 ONLY GIVES ME A READING,ONE WAY WHEN I USE A MULTI METER(OHMS).I ALSO FOUND RESISTOR R1542 AND R1507 TO BE DISCOLORED.IF YOU HAVE A SERVICE MANUAL COULD YOU TELL ME THE PART #S FOR THESE PARTS.INSTEAD OF THE STK 392-110 CAN I USE STK392-180. ALSO WHAT IS M.O.V?

  • shuttle5 Jan 14, 2009

    my ,question is,shouldn't cap c1504,give me a reading both ways.since i'm getting a reading one way,doesn't this mean this cap is no good.i will replace both stk's.i'm a novice,i'm just trying to understand how things work.i'm also able to read schematics.

  • shuttle5 Jan 16, 2009

    no it's not electrolyic.it's brown and rectangular in shape,measures 1/2in across,by 5/16in down with two prongs.i look-up on ecoustic site and this is where i got the name yoke cap from.all that's written on cap is 104k.

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Lift the convergence yoke plugs off of the signal pcb one at a time and turn the set on. if unit powers up and stays on then replace the convergence ic's. expect the picture to be distorted while troubleshooting and don't let it stay on long if it fires up. stk-392-110 are the ic's you would need along with some heat sink compound. also check for a burned m.o.v. on the deflection pcb just in case.

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

  • Chuck Jan 12, 2009

    The 180 in the part number indicates the wattage of the IC so yes, it MAY work but I always like to use the original parts. I have also found that on those resistors they have been very discolored but they never opened so I never replace them and never had an issue after replacing the stk's. I recoomen repalcing the stk's first then fire the set up and see what you have. You will most likely find that you only need a little touching up on the convergence. Don't forget the heat sink compound for the stks

  • Chuck Jan 14, 2009

    is the cap electrolyic?

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1. Try this - hold the menu button down for 10 seconds. TV should power up; you will have to turn off front panel buttons on menu.

2. You can also try a hard reset: Unplug TV from AC mains and remove all cables from TV. Wait about 30 minutes and replug to AC power and redo the cabling. Switch on the TV and see if it works..

3. Powering down the set or putting it in standby may have allowed the power supply to cool. Weak capacitors often go out of spec when they cool, thus preventing a section of the power supply from firing up properly again. There is a simple trick...just warm the back of the TV with a hair dryer for 5-7 mins after you have unplugged the TV. Look for the little areas of holes in the back panel of TV. Use these as your guide at where to use the hairdryer, but don't hold the dryer too close (say 5-6inches away). (Make sure the dryer is on High heat). If the TV doesn't turn on after you have heated it up (like it tries to come on but then turns off) you need to unplug the TV again, this resets it. And repeat those steps till it works. Resetting the TV after it fails to turn on is the key. Also, just leave the TV on. Don't turn in off. Since it is LCD, it doesn't take much power...only a few bucks extra a month for your utility bill.

4. A circuit board may crack about some of the larger components mounted on it. You can inspect the PCB's for fractures, and then repair them. It may also be poor soldering that has failed. I would be checking for these things first.

5. If you want to go in for a long term solution, you can easily replace the whole power board or just change the faulty capacitors. You will have to open the back panel and take a look. You can make out which are faulty, because their caps will be swollen on top. Here's a sample pic of a bust capacitor (not same model):
ead3101.jpg
Check the specifications of the faulty capacitors, and get the replacements from your local electronics shop. If you are comfortable with this, you can use a pair of needle nose pliers to G-E-N-T-L-Y pull out the defunct capacitors. Once that is done, solder in the new capacitors carefully. If are unsure how to do this, try to get a friend who knows how to do this kinda stuff do it for you, or get a qualified technician. Warning: If you do not have a background in electronics repair, or are inexperienced, get a qualified technician to do it for you.

REMEMBER there are very dangerous voltages inside a TV that can KILL. Be sure to work SAFE when dealing with electricity. DISCONNECT THE POWER BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING.

Hope that helps!

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You can most likely fix this yourself.

You have had the back off before, so you know how to get to the circuit boards. You will have to remove the video output panel as well for this repair.

Look for a box that has the RF connectors attached to it and remove it.

Open the box and inspect the solder connections on all the devices, including the grounds around the sides of the box. The grounds are a big issue on all tuner and switching connections.

Solder all of the connections in the tuner switch and you should be good to go. I would recommend a 45 watt iron, if it is too hot it can lift the traces off of the circuit board.

If this does not work I would recommend a technician to diagnose the tuners in your set, as this is the next circuit to receive the signal.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue.
If I have helped you, please help me, and rate this suggestion the highest FixYa rating. (Two Thumbs Up)
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If you need further assistance please comment to this post and I will try to help you further.

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Hi,

Appreciate the direct "Ask Me".

Initially, the clicking sound is the relay inside that is engaging. In some instances, this symptom could indicate that the relay contacts have corroded or burned and are no longer providing electrical contacts. Normal course of repair would be replacing, but some have known to work with even just cleaning/scrapping.

That above was the easy probable fault. At other other times, the relay clicking indicates the the Mitsubishi is triggering off, meaning its built-in protection has kicked in. This is indicative of a hardware fault. This of course would require a fair familiarity of electronic components/circuitry and safety procedures, use of a DVM and a soldering iron. It would be to your added advantage access to a service manual or at the very least a schematic diagram with voltage readings. Should you be uncomfortable performing a DIY (do-it-yourself), perhaps your best bet would then be to seek the services of a qualified professional.

Hopethis be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up orshould you need additional information. Good luck and kind regards.Thank you for using FixYa.

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Hello trumpold,

The bad new is the resistor is bad. If it is reading 2 ohms its bad because the rated value is .29 ohms and 5% tolerance. I would venture to say that the convergence amplifiers have gone bad. due to excessive current. Since the deflection and convergence boards work together they might both be defective. I would first suggest that you take the TV to a qualified TV repair shop, to perform the repair, but if you what to do this yourself you will need the following items:

1) Schematic of the TV in question (www.servicemanuals.net or www.manualsparadise.com

2) Signal Generator or use the on-board Signal Generator (look in schematic for usage.

3) Multimeter (for resistance, and voltage readings)

4) soldering iron, solder, and de-soldering tools (solder wick, and de-soldering pump)

With these items you should be able to determine the components you need to change, and remember follow the instructions in the schematic exactly as to board removal.

Before reinstalling the convergence board after changing out the convergence amps and ALL (I maen ALL) biasing resistors, check for solder bridges and shorts, removing them with the solderwick.

I hope this helps

Thank you,

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. they are located on a huge heat sink inside your set. Just look for the largest aluminum heat sink inside your set. You will notice them they are large black ICs with about 16 pins on them. Just unsolder the old ones and solder in the replacements. just be sure to put some heat sink compound on the back of the new ICs where they contact the heat sink. You can get a de-soldering iron at radio shack with a rubber bulb to make the de-soldering alot easier and you will also need a low wattage soldering Iron to solder in the new ones. Just mark any wires you remove to get the convergence module out. That way you will know where the wires plug in when your finished. It will need a convergence adjustment when your finihed. Be careful not to bridge any of the pins with excess solder. Inspect the pins with a magnifying glass when your finished to make sure the solder from any adjacent pins arent touching each other. If you need to know where to buy replacement ICs let me know.

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