2001 cam gears 330i assembled - Gear Head WC535I Webcam

Hi the usual leak is from the transmission sump / filter there is also an area where the cables for the electronics go into the transmission this seal may also need replacing.

change your central locking relay.

The only marks you need to be concerned with are on the rear of the cam gears, there are two large dimples, these are the assembly marks, not the timing marks, line them up and then rotate the camshafts to the top dead center position, there should be two small dots that line up with the single dot in between.
The reason for the assembly marks is that the one of the cams has a spring loaded gear, you can identify it because it has a two piece gear, before you remove the cam you have to install a short bolt into one of the holes in the gear so that it won't unwind, the reason you need to use the assembly marks is that the service bolt is not accessible with the cams at top dead center so you assemble it with the marks so that you can then remove the bolt and then rotate the cams to the #1 firing position.

Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Camshaft_timing_mark_96_Camry_2.2l#ixzz1jE0qBgxz

Your shifter cam bolt has backed out, this is a common problem on earlier GSXR's. Happened twice on my 2000, both times during race weekends.

Stop riding the bike and shifting at all and do the following repair:

Remove clutch cover - you'll drain some oil so make sure you have a drip pan underneath

Remove the 5 the clutch housing plate bolts - careful as they have pretty stiff springs behind them providing torsion

Remove all the clutch plates - make sure you keep the same order and re-install the same way; matter of fact if you have never replaced your clutch plates, do it along with this repair.

Once the clutch case is basically empty, you will see at the lower left a small assembly that looks a bit like a tuning fork, at the end of the shifter shaft. There is also a cam there with rounded cogs. There is a 8mm or 10 mm hex head bolt that holds this cam, and I'm sure it has backed out and is causing the cam and shifter to not engage the gears properly.

Remove the cam bolt. Spray some compressed air or even a light spray of brake cleaner in the threaded area where the bolt you just removed is. Make sure the threads are clean and dry.

Place the cam bolt and assembly back in its position, and take some RED loctite to the shifter cam bolt threads. Make sure to torque the bolt to specifications, I think it's 24 or 28 nm.

Let the bolt set for 24-8 hours, then reassemble the clutch and replace the clutch cover gasket. Top off the oil and go riding.

the timming gear that the belt runs on has a mark (V cut in gear) to rear cover at about 12 o clock and crank pulley has timming mark for top dead centre, both cams have cut outs in rear that a special tool (camshaft stopper 5-8840-2592-0) locks into to hold cams in correct position, but can do without this, if the cam belt gear is off, the keyway should be at 12 o clock. the marks in the camshaft gears (dots) is for assembly of sissor gears to solid gears on camshafts that run together and they should match up only if you had this appart.

no.1 is timming mark

this is the locking plate tool

I'm having the same problem have you fixed yours?

the gearbox is a "fuzzy logic"system.gearchange depends on accelerator pedal position/revs/load.if you drive without depressing the gas peddle more than a third down you should find all gearchanges much smoother.(if you drive with gas peddle almost hard down all the time yhe car will hold gears longer...poss 4500 revs or more......

Hi, the fog lamp should have a cover surounding it. this will just pull off then you will see a 8mm screw bolt, remove this and the fog lamp should then be able to be removed.

u have a worn out clutch pressure plate release bearing, that is what u feel and hear..

The starter solenoid is defective, the contact inside the solenoid that energize the starter are burned, remove them and look bet they are heavily pitted, replace the starter.