Question about Volfenhag ZX-4712 Car Subwoofer

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Subs stopped working & protect light on the amp is red...

Ok first questions were is the serial number located on these subs? Ok well I bought 2 VOLFENHAG 2000 W SUBS and VOLFENHAG ZX 7180 2 CHANNEL 1600 WATT AMPLIFIER Item URL: My brother in law and I installed them just fine. Then a few days later one of the subs stopped working and the protect light on the amp started turing red. We took a closer look and noticed that the sub just kept making a hissing noise, and you could smell something burning in the sub, my brother in law said it may be the voice coil. So we took that one out and just had the one left hooked up. Except the next day that sub stopped working and the protect light on the amp is turning red again. I havent had time to check this one out yet, im been busy with college. We plan on trouble shooting and see what we can find out. My brother in law has the same subs as me but with a different amp. What i need to find out is if its the amp or the subs. Any help or suggestions are GREATLY appreciated. I would like to figure out the problem so i can send what i need to back and get new ones as soon as possible Thanks Corey Johnson

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Re: Subs stopped working & protect light on the amp is...

Well at this point i would say it is both,, the subs fried because your amplifier passed dc [direct current] and fried the voice coils on your subs....return them if they are under warranty,, the amplifier sound like you either operated it beyound its specifications or it has a defective output stage allowing it to pass or leak turned the voice coils into the equivelent of the runners in a toaster oven....when an amp passes dc it is going to do so to whatever speakers you hook to either bring it to a shop to be fixed/ return it to place purchase for exchange or throw it away.....or you will continue to experience the same problems....I am the amp goes into protection when it detects a short...[ the short is produced by the amp and it is detecting its own fault and putting it in to protection after it BURNS up your drivers....

Posted on May 18, 2007

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- kkkjohnson - Please clarify your question. Do you mean they stopped working all together.
-First make sure the amp going to the subs is still working. -If not, stop and trouble shoot the amp (fuse, loose wires,etc) -If it is working, check the wires going from the amp to the subs -If the wires are connected, your next step should be to dismount the subs and hook them up to a digital multi-meter (DMM) To use a DDM to test the subs ohms do the following:
Figure out what the specs of you subs ohms and voice coils the are (dual 2 ohm, 4 ohm, etc. After that, place the black/negative wire/lead coming from the DMM tol the negative terminal of the sub. The place the red/positive wire/lead to the positive terminal of the sub. Then set the DMM to the ohm symbol. It should look like a horse shore symbol. Then allow 5 or 15 seconds for a accurate reading of what the ohms are. For instance a dual 2 ohm sub should read anywhere from 1.6 ohms to 2.4 ohms...each sub is difference. Check both sides/voice coils if it is dual voice coil subs. For instance if your sub is dual 2 ohm sub and you get a read that is higher than the numbers listed above (ex. 8 ohms, .05 ohms, etc); this would indicate that you have a blown sub.

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Well i was driving one day and my subs just whent out so i bought brand new wires and hooked everything up but the power protector light turns red whenever uu turn it up past volume 10 i really do not know...

It sounds like your amp is going into protection. I know it's frustrating, but this is actually a good thing. If you subs you have are drawing too much power and the amp can't keep up, it will shut off instead of melting the board. Usually, the protection mode only last a few seconds. The user normally turns the music down that the protection shuts off and the music plays again. I recommend looking at a larger amp for your subs, if you are going to play them that hard.

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I have two audiobahn aw1206t 12in. subs in a box hooked to a 100.1 american bass amp its 1000 watt mono block. i also ran a capacitor due to my lights dimming. but for some reason my amp keeps kicking over...

This could be caused due to the impedance load being to low. Your amp is stable to 2 ohm load however its very possible that you have your subs wired to a 1 ohm load that would cause the amp to go into protect mode. The subs you have are dual 4 ohm voice coils and would need to be wired in series/parallel. I've included a link that will show you how the subs should be wired.

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if the amps impedance is higher than the speaker, it will trigger the protection circuits, because the amp sees it as an overload, example the amp has 8 ohm impedance specified, and your speaker has 4 ohm specification, that is a clear overload. Bring the subs back to the amp's dealer and have the amp replaced; the one that matches your subs. Hope this helps... ;-)

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If there is no red and black colored input wire connectors on the subs then it doesn't matter.Positive and negative does not really effect speakers and subs since it is DC anyways.

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I hooked up my two 10 inch JL Audio W3v2 2 ohms to a mono JL Audio 500.1 amp and the subs will not work. I have the subs wired in a series. I then hooked them up to my friends amp and the subs worked. Any...

try one at a time. if they work then try hooking them up differently. if none work, then check to see that your amp is not in protect mode. if amp is ok, then check to make sure you have your rcas connected to your amp. in other words, re-check all your wiring. if still nothing, try your amp on your friends car and vise versa.

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I've got a pair of these MTX's subs powered from a Fusion 450 watt 2-channel amp. For the price, they are great. By the way, they are 4-ohm.

My first suspicion would be that something in the first incorrect wiring damaged either the amp or the subs. Can you explain specifically what the "installing the subs incorrectly" means? Was the amp output shorted out at any time or was it operated without a load? Either of these conditions will fry an amp and sometimes, the protection circuitry doesn't work either.

First make sure that your amp is still working. Check both the primary power fuse, usually located near the vehicle battery, and the fuses on both sides of the amp. Make sure that when you turn the system on, the power light comes on steady (blinking is protection mode). Test your subs one at a time on a speaker output.

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If smoke has come out of the subwoofer, the speaker itself, that means the voice coils have been heated excessively and they are damaged or in this case, I'd say completely blown. Voice coils blow because they've been driven too hard, too much power, too much distortion for too long.

If you can get access to the front of the subwoofer speakers, gently put even pressure with your fingers near the middle of the cone, just around the edge of the centre dust cap and push gently and slightly inwards. If you hear or feel a "scratchy" type sound or feel, or if they dont move in freely, they are blown. And if that's the case, your amp could be damaged as well.

Most modern car amps have circuit protection and will shut down when they detect a load greater than they are used to so the amp MAY be ok. One way to test the amp is to hook another speaker to it, any speaker as a test is ok, and see if sound comes out. Make sure all power is off when connecting and disconnecting speakers!

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