My icemaker stopped working last week and when I first checked out the problem, the ejector arm was frozen to a small piece of ice in the tray slot next to the motor assembly. I removed the icemaker, thawed the ice to free the ejector arm and re-installed the system with the hopes that it was just a fluke. The following day the same thing happened, but the cubes were full size. I thought it was a timing issue but I could find any info on the topic so I repeated the steps in hopes that it would eventually be successful. After 4 tries, I read ?catriver?s? solution on how to test the motor. The jumper wire test was successful, but there was some noise from the motor from 4 o?clock to 7 o?clock (bad jumper?). Also, the motor stalled at 11 o?clock (bad jumper?). I reinstalled the icemaker at the 11 o?clock position and at the 12 o?clock position the water filled the tray. The ejector arm stopped at the 2 o?clock position. I thought we were in business, but the next morning the ejector arm was frozen in the cubes. I gave it one more shot before I left for work and I?ll see if it works this evening.
What does the small, white adjustment screw control?
The refrigerator is functioning normally and maintaining temperature so it seems to be icemaker?.any thoughts??
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Re: Frozen ejector arm
Sounds more like the heater in the ice maker is bad. The cycles of the ice maker are:
1. water comes in to fill ice maker.
2. water freezes in ice maker making.
3. heater comes on to help ice release.
4. motor comes on to eject the ice and start all over again.
if the heater doesn't come on the ice will not eject. replacing the icemaker is typically what needs to be done in this case.
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if this box is a 2001 or newer it has a filter in water line. if this is it take filter and bypass that whole filter. also these boxs have main control located back of box and all fuctions go thru this board. If older than 2001 check icemaker were plugs in. You can force ejectors to make the ice maker run. cycle icemaker check for power at water valve. The ice maker valve is the small line
first checkthe inlet solinoid valve if has a continuity or when u energized valve it activate or produce magnet that open the valve and water enter may this solinoid is stuck up try to dismantle. or check or clean the water level sensor using sand paper or rating 1000
the icemaker arm on the L g are diferent dont try to pull up not a shut off arm this has a switch under side of ice maker if u kift up on the arm on this icemaker yo uwill need to buy a new icemaker and they arent cheap check for an ice jam between auger in icemaker if you havent pulled up on arm ive also seen the water fill tube to icemaker frozen
if ice bucket is mounted in the door,the fill tube in ceiling of freezer may be frozen.this happens due to low water pressure coming to unit.if bucket is mounted inside freezer and not in the door, check fill tube coming to rear of icemaker for clog if frozen- tube can be removed and pulled out from back of appliance. the arms that eject cubes from the ice maker mould should be @ the 10:00 position or 2:00( depends on how you are viewing) if the ejector blades are not in either position they should be in motion,no in between.if not moving,there is a piece of ice hindering the ejectors/tricking the i/m into thinking the bucket is already full
Hello there Here is some things for you to check ok The motor turns the ejector blades
which rotate until they contact the ice. Because the ice is frozen
to the mold, it cannot be pushed out and the motor stalls. As
the blades continue to press on the ice, the ice mold heater begins
heating the mold. Once the ice loosens the ejector motor turns,
the mold heater shuts off and the ice is pushed out. so what i would first do is to check the mold heater to see if it is working and if this is good than check the motor for the ejector blade and see if it is recieving power if it is have the motor itself checked to see if it is bad ok I hope that this is very helpful for you there is still a lot more that can be checked but try these first ok Best regards michael
Most likely the ice fill tube has frozen up and will not allow the water to fill the ice maker. You will need to remove the icemaker (three small screws) and take a hair dryer and thaw out the fill tube. You can use a bent up coat hanger to reach in and remove some of the ice that is formed up in the tube as you thaw out the ice. Also check the Icemaker's actuator arm. This sometimes is hung up by a small piece of ice that hasn't dropped causing the Icemaker to shut off. (This is the first thing to check )
There is ice blocking the assy. You need to get in there and clean it out. You WILL find a piece of ice that is blocking the assembly from turning. Happens more often than you think. Be careful when you get the piece out the blades will revolve forcefully once unhindered.
Oviously you need water first. You'll have to check that the fill valve is opening and that the water is making it to the icemaker. Make sure the fill tube that feeds the water from the back of the frige to the icemaker is not frozen. Be aware, just because you get water at the dispenser doesn't mean the valve to the icemaker is ok. If you are getting water, you need to check that the icemaker is not jammed, sometimes ice can fall back into the icemaker, or get caught in the ejector. You may need to remove the icemaker and run the mold under hot water to melt the ice. If it was jammed, you'll need to check that the fill level is correct to prevent it from happening again, both too much water and too little water can cause problems. There is a heater that helps loosen the ice from the mold, because of that there is a thermal fuse to prevent it from over heating. It will be molded into the wiring harness supplying power to the icemaker. If you have continuity through the fuse it's ok. If you don't the heater shorted and you will need both a new icemaker and that wiring harness.
That on/off arm...you should be able to move it and it will likely make a small click when the switch goes on or off. That arm controls the ice making. There is also a float, is it working freely? It has a switch too. Ultimately, the water is controlled by a solenoid valve. It may be defective. Many of these units are removable to test the switches with a multimeter. Turn off the water and remove to test. Some parts are available...some parts are by the unit only.