Question about Intermatic 600 Watt Low Voltage Transformer - AL600TPWS with Timer & Photo

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Need timer switch for millivolt gas fireplace

Our gas fireplace uses a millivolt system that creates a trickle of power from the pilot light.
We would like to replace the wall switch with a timer switch, but are not sure that the typical one to control a fan/light works since it is 120V.
Any suggestions?

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  • dboss817 Jan 02, 2009

    The existing switch is labeled


    15A.-120v.-277V.A.C.   A.C. Only

  • dboss817 Jan 02, 2009

    You asked about the existing switch, and of course that works, but it's just a toggle switch.


    What I want to do is replace it with a timer switch. That switch is labeled 


    15A General Purpose
    1000@
    1/4 HP
    1000VA
    125Vac60Hz

  • Stephen Evans May 11, 2010

    does the existing wall switch have any voltage rating on it

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These guys are a division of Monessen, a gas fireplace manufacturer, and have a variety of millivolt switches, remotes and thermostats.
http://www.ambienttechnologies.com/

Posted on Jan 17, 2010

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The switch should work as long as it is not a dimmer switch which would reduce the millivoltage.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

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Heat is the enemy of electricity, especially electronics.
The public doesn't understand how global warming is going to affect electrical devices including your phone, timers, detectors, and all electrical power.

If you research operational temperatures for small electronic devices, the upper range is usually 105-120 degrees F. Some can operate up to 135 degrees F, and will fail in higher temperatures because the circuit board, chip and parts are made to withstand certain temperature tolerances.
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This means the short-term solution to your electronic problem is to open a window slightly in the garage.
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It is unclear what pilot-light-switch is supposed to turn on-and-off.

Option A) pilot-light-switch is going to turn GFCI on-and-off
Option B) pilot-light-switch is getting power from existing GFCI circuit, and switch controls another Load (light, fan or motor) located elsewhere.

Add a comment at any point.
Bare copper wire always connects to green screw.

1) I have a Cooper pilot-light-switch in my office.
Black Hot wire from breaker always connects to dark-colored screw(s).
White Neutral wire from breaker box connects to silver-colored screw
Wire going to Load (light, fan, motor) connects to brass colored screw.

2) Two things happen when pilot-light-switch turns ON:
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b) Brass screw that had no power, is now powered.

The GFCI:
Hot from breaker always connects to brass-colored Line screw
Neutral from breaker connects to silver-colored screw that is opposite Line screw.
If other switches and plugs are going to be protected by GFCI, they connect to brass Load screw and to silver screw that is opposite Load screw
geno_3245_83.jpg

Option A) You want pilot-light-switch to turn on GFCI receptacle.
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Option B) Pilot-light-switch is getting power from GFCI receptacle AND you want pilot light switch protected by GFCI.
a) Black wire on pilot-light dark screw connects to Load screw on GFCI
b) White wire on pilot-light silver connects to silver screw on GFCI that is opposite Load screw

Option C) same as option B except pilot-light-switch is NOT protected by GFCI.
a) Black wire on pilot-light dark screw connects to Line screw on GFCI or any Hot wire
b) White wire on pilot-light silver connects to silver screw on GFCI that is opposite Load screw or to any Neutral wire

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The wiring diagram is on the inside of the box.

In indicates that if you want the pilot light to glow when the circuit is off, then you only need two wires (the live and the return, usually colored black and white, respectively). However, you also need a ground. The instructions say that you need the ground for safety (and probably legal code) reasons, but I suspect that, without the ground, the pilot light won't work in this configuration.

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