Question about Amtrol ST-12-C THERM-X-TROL ASME Expansion Tank, 5 Gallon

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Pipes humming in house

I have a substantial humming in my copper piped home. I have shut off all toilets to isolate them. The hum occurs only when the water pressure is trying to rise back to line pressure after using ANY main floor valves. There is an Amtrol ST-5 inline to the water heater. Since this is a valve I was wondering if it could produce a hum in the piping system.

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  • wallyshootsz Dec 30, 2008

    Thank You for a timely response. Im on city water however. I just finished swapping out the double check valve above the meter. Presto......completely quiet piping system. I suspected it was a valve that was cavitating the pipes. Thanks Again

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From your description, I am guessing you are on a deep well with this answer. I think you have an issue with the well pump. To isolate it do this...........

Turn the main supply valve off to the house. Your well tank should have a hose bib on the well tee. Hook a hose up to that and run it outside. Open the valve to the hose until you heard the pressure click on which activates the pump. After the click close the valve and listen for the hum. If it still hums it is the Well and not the piping in your home.

Will follow-up.............

Please rate this response after testing and Good Luck, Phil

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

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I have an Amtrol them x trol and I have significant humming through my home, when I check the unit I can feel it vibrating and putting my hand on it reduces the volume of the humming. The humming...


Most likely the humming is due to a defective or damaged check valve on your water METER and only translates the sound through your extrol expansion tank. The check valve on your meter should be replaced. The noise stops when you run water because the faster flow through the check valve opens it completely. Most likely you have a running toilet or dripping faucet that let's water seep through the check valve causing it to partially open and creating vibration in the bad gaskets on the check valve.
#1 have the check valve replaced
#2 find and repair the water leak

Dec 15, 2014 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

I have a Navien NR 240A tankless which has been in use for about a year. My only complaint is that when the internal recirculation pump turns on I can hear a waterflow or pump noise throughout the house...


Hi Bruce
No its not normal it shud b isolated by lagging the noise travels through the timber lagging between pipes will help also how old is the pump shud only b a hum if pump ok any more and u need to replace , also u mite like to check speed of pump mite b on max turn down so long ur flow is ok or ur system mite get to hot

Sep 17, 2013 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

NEW WATTER HEATER MAKES A HUMMING /WHISTLING SOUND


Factory-installed heat traps can cause this problem:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Low-hot-water-pressure.html#trap
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#heat-trap

Remove heat traps, or heat trap inserts, or heat trap nipples.
Make your own heat traps, and save 4-9$ per year, using flex copper connections, or reconnect pipes in heat-trap configuration.
Always insulate pipes.
With electric heater, pipe insulation can run all the way to tank.
With atmospheric-vent gas water heater, the pipe insulation cannot obstruct air intake at draft hood. With power vent gas, the pipe insulation can run all the way to tank.

Mar 10, 2013 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

I have a hotpoint hot water heater it's about 6 years old. When I turn the hot water on it runs very slowly the water pressure is very low and it's like this throughout the house how do I fix this problem...


You have clog in the water line.
Since all hot water pipes are involved, clog is probably near water heater.

Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that threads onto hose connection.
Brady BTG 100 at Amazon
Picture of gauge

Check outdoor pressure for baseline pressure in your home.
Turn off electricity to hot water heater for an hour or two so there is not scalding water.
Open drain valve on water heater to see if water heater is clogged with sediment.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-will-not-drain.html

Put pressure gauge on drain valve and compare with outside pressure.
Open hot water spigot on bathtub and see if tank pressure drops ... if tank pressure drops significantly with bathtub spigot on, then clog is on incoming cold water before tank, and could be on outgoing hot water pipes too.
If tank pressure stays about the same, then clog is on outgoing hot water pipes.

Clog can be sediment caught in cold water shut off valve located above tank. Open and close valve and test pressure again. Take apart incoming cold water pipes above tank and check for sediment. Replace valve. Look at condition of cold water nipple on top of tank.

Sediment caught at hot water elbow near tank.
Sediment can fill up old pipes. Take apart hot water pipes above water heater and see condition.
Look at condition of hot water nipple on top of tank.
You may have to take apart pipes up to first or second elbow.

Pipes can decay at joint where copper pipe connects to galvanized pipe. Check for copper to galvanized connections on cold or hot pipes and replace section of galvanized pipe. Copper pipe will probably be good, the galvanized pipe will deteriorate. Replace copper-to-galvanized joint with 3/4" non-conducting union from hardware store

Dec 06, 2010 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Turned off the hot water to fix a leaking tap. now the tap has no hot or cold water and the hot water tank valve is leaking?


It sounds like two problems.
Problem 1) Clog inside faucet or clog inside pipes at faucet
Remove supply tubes leading to faucet and see if problem is inside pipes or inside faucet.
My bet is clog inside faucet.

If you have galvanized pipe that meets copper pipe, this can be trouble spot.
Article on clogged water pipes at Inspectapedia:
http://www.inspectapedia.com/water/Water_Pipe_Clog_Repair_Guide.htm

Article on clogged pipes:
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Troubleshooting/Tanklets/backflushing.html

Problem 2) Water heater leak ... you say tank valve is leaking? Is that cold-water shut-off valve? Or tank drain valve? Or TP valve?

If cold water shut-off is leaking, then replace shut off.

If tank drain valve is leaking, then check if plastic valve is cracked. If drain valve is cracked, then replace with a brass valve from Home Depot. If plastic valve breaks off, then use hammer and screwdriver to gently chip out the broken plastic valve. New valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe. If valve is just dripping, then put garden-hose cap over end of valve and screw down tight.

If TP valve is leaking, then replace with same temperature and pressure rating.
New TP valve threads need teflon tape to seal pipe.

Problem 3) If pressure is low all over house:
Buy pressure gauge at hardware store that screws onto hose connection.

Test pressure on outdoor spigot.
Open faucet and check if pressure drops. This says if problem is inside pipes that enter house.

Test pressure on water heater drain valve.
This says if pressure problem is before -or- after water heater.

If problem is before the water heater, then shut-off valve located on cold water line is suspect.
If problem is after water heater, it could be in hot water outflow pipe on top of water heater, or a nearby elbow.

Remove hot water line leading from water heater and check pressure. This says if problem is where hot water leaves tank.
Read articles above about clogs inside water lines.


Nov 16, 2010 | Rheem Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve

1 Answer

The water pipes that carry the water throughout the house makes a loud humming noise every three seconds


Hi, it says you are having problems with the relief valve, I am not sure what it is, but they will blow water if the water temperature exceeds its rating and water pressure. Also, says you have a humming every 3 seconds or so in the pipes? This sounds like a classic case of hard water deposits have formed up around the control valve probe that's inserted into the water. Also if the pipes are galvanized and not copper, they will rust up the walls of the pipes over time with deposits also closing of the amount of room for the water to get through. It would really help to know the age of your home and if the water heater is gas or electric? When this happens, you will hear a popping noise at the water heater and you will get air in the pipes that will cause all sorts of noise, humming, growling, the pipes will rattle and with the restricted lines and build up of sediment, the pressure relief valve will let loose to relieve the pressure. If you are having any signs of low and uneven pressures and hot and cold problems, depending on the age of this water heater, you will need to replace it.If it is a gas heater, you will have a round plastic drain knob located at the bottom of the heater. You can turn it ccw all the way open and let the water coming into it from the fill valve on top flush out as much of the sediment as you can. When you have done this, close the valve off to fill it up again and repeat the draining or flushing process. This will also remove any air trapped in the lines. Important! When you are filling the heater if you had shut the fill valve off on top, open the water valve and on the relief valve, pull the lever up to lock it open as this lets all air from the lines out of the heater and the water pipes. If this relief valve is blowing a lot, replace it. Just turn the water valve off on top and use a pipe wrench to turn it ccw to remove it. Look for sediment on the rod to see how much has build up on it. This valve is around $25 and will be cheaper to replace then the heater. The size is 3/4". Temperature range for it to open will be stamped on the old valve. This you can get at any hardware store such as Home Depot, Lowe's, Ace and so on. Pick up a small tub of pipe dope to coat the treads when installing and once it is in, turn water on and raise the lever up as you turn water back on to fill the tank to remove the air. This should solve this problem. Please keep me posted on this and your progress and if you will tell me the age of your home and if its a gas or electric heater this will be helpful if the instructions I have given you do not solve this problem. I do believe it is just trapped air and a faulty pressure relief valve at this point. Please don't forget to rate me as I know you will be kind and please keep me posted as I will check on you as I store your information in my files to look in on at any time I may need.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Aug 30, 2010 | Rheem Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve

1 Answer

Shutting off water valve problems


Some shutoff valves are pretty marginal to start with, then they corrode. They can easily break if you put too much force on the handle. You are wise to be cautious. You will have to turn of the main water supply and then replace the toilet shutoff valve. You might be able to replace the shutoff valve yourself, depending on your skills and depending on how the shutoff valve is connected to pipe coming out of the wall or floor. But keep in mind that if you get in over your head you will have no water in the house until you get that new shutoff valve in place.
If you can describe what kind of pipe that shutoff valve is connected to I can help you understand if you should tackle it yourself.

Jun 29, 2010 | Toto Elongated Washlet C100 Toilet Seat -...

4 Answers

Rinnai tankless water heater code 12


12 - Flame Failure or Poor Ground

1. Immediate code 12 is usually a defective gas valve, power supply problem, or defective fan motor wiring harness.

2. If code 12 occurs after a few seconds it indicates that proper operation was established, but then stopped unexpectedly.

3. Verify that fuel is being supplied to the unit.

4. Check for proper electrical ground. Unit must use a grounded power supply.

5. Check for flue blockage on inlet or exhaust.

http://www.foreverhotwater.com/service-codes.php

Dec 31, 2008 | Rinnai Webstone The isolator EXP tankless...

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