Question about Ovens

1 Answer

No heat from any element on any setting

There is power to the unit and the control panel functions and displays like normal. The door opens and this problem did not occur after a self-clean cycle, but there has been numerous power outages and brown-outs recently. What part needs to be replaced?

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  • edenridge Dec 30, 2008

    KitchenAid Superba Selectra 30 Wall Oven Model KEBS107882

  • edenridge Jan 01, 2009

    Power to the unit is normal = 240 Volts.

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  • Expert
  • 76 Answers

First check your voltage to the unit

Posted on Jan 01, 2009

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No lights, no timer, no functions but power to the unit 220V confirmed good. Any ideas?


Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:
1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
5.
6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!


Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.
: rememberI offer free advice bcuz God is so good!






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Mar 24, 2015 | Viking Ovens

2 Answers

We have a Kitchen Aid KEBC147VBL03 wall oven. When we ran the self clean oven (big mistake), the oven shut off and locked. There is no display/lights on the control panel. And, the door is stuck in lo


Does the control board or anywhere of control panel have a fuse? If not beter have it service. Expect a quotation from the serv. Tech after it found how big or expensive theparts tobe replace to make ur unit operational agian

Sep 22, 2014 | Ovens

1 Answer

Why no display


1.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
2.
3.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!


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May 18, 2014 | Whirlpool Ovens

2 Answers

Kenmore oven won't work


1.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
2.
3.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!


24204619-rlcwkvmjohmhoaex2htic0pp-3-0.jpg

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Apr 21, 2014 | Whirlpool RBS245PDS Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Whirlpool oven display inop after oven control board replaced



Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times:
1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary.
2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection.
3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires.
4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board.
5.
6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating.

If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

THINGS TO CHECK:

the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!


Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
1.If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons. (Locate the suspect switch for testing. Label all wires and terminals before disconnecting. A close up digital photo may be helpful.
2.On the burner control switch the terminal labeled "P" leads to the burner indicator light. The terminals labeled "H1" and "H2" lead to the burner element and the terminals labeled "L1" and "L2" (sometimes "N1" and "N2") are the power supply wires.
3.Set your multimeter to ohms setting x1. Turn the burner control to the highest temperature setting. Place one probe on pin "L1" and the second probe on pin "H1". The resistance measurement should be very low, zero to twenty ohms. If the test shows high or infinite resistance, the burner switch is defective.
4.Repeat the step above for the terminals "L2" and "H2".
5.If the control passes that test, turn the temperature setting to about the middle of the range and repeat the previous two steps. This will test for an intermittent problem with the switch. If the test does not show continuity with very low resistance, the switch should be replaced.
6.With the switch turned to the "Off" position, the resistance on each of the pairs of terminals tested above should now show no continuity or a reading of infinite resistance.
7.A test for continuity between "P" and "L1" when the burner control switch is on should show continuity. The light should be on whenever the control is turned on. If your test shows continuity, but the light does not operate, it is likely the bulb has failed.
If the burner switch shows high or infinite resistance, the switch is not passing along current to the burner and so the switch should be replaced. )

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.


Oven Won Turn on
http://www.partselect.com/Repair/Range-Stove-Oven/Will-Not-Start

Feb 19, 2014 | Whirlpool GBD307PDS Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

My ge jkp27bow2bb doesn't bake, but does broil. Bad heating element?


You are going to have to disconnect power to the unit and disconnect the wires on the element to test it. Take an ohm meter and touch the two ends, if there is continuity generally it's good. No continuity replace element. Also there is a visual way to know if the element has blown. Any deformed/melted area on the element.
I dont know enough about your unit to determine if a control board is present or simple knob and thermocouple tube.

Dec 23, 2012 | Ovens

9 Answers

GE Double Oven doors locked and circuit not responding


Hi, well this is a brain tester!! I think you need really to look at this in a simple way. Check to see where the door lock wires come from first? Find where the mains power comes into? then if it goes directly to the main control board then check to see if there is any power getting through the board to the otherside where the wires disapear into the cooker. I would consider checking the control board for any signs of burn damage and then look at the clock unit to as these are normally the main components in the cooker that will stop it from working.
Good luck,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Jan 02, 2009 | GE Profile JTP56 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Instruction manual


HI SIR  
When you first use your Oven, the Oven will need to "settle". That is, it needs to burn off production residues and dust. The metal used in the Oven will also expand slightly when first used. You will experience some crackling and a strong smell. This is perfectly normal and we advice you anticipate this "settling" prior to use. Using an empty Oven, select Function 4 and set a temperature of 250°, allow the Oven to "settle" for hour, turn to function 3 and heat for a further 1/2 hour.
Multifunction Oven Function Selections

2. Defrost - This function activates the fan only, (no heat is used) to allow controlled and hygienic defrosting.
3. Conventional cooking - Normal or traditional cooking functions using the top and bottom elements. When using this function set the thermostat between 50 - 250°C. When the desired temperature is reached the yellow light will go out and then alternate between lit and unlit as the temperature is controlled.
4. Fan-Forced cooking - This selection is best for multilevel cooking as the heat generated by the central element is circulated around the Oven, creating an even heat environment. You will need to set the thermostat dial between 50-250°C for this function.
5. Center Griller - For best results set the thermostat to MAX. The door may remain closed or completely open.
6. Large Griller - For best results set the thermostat to MAX. The door may remain closed or completely open.
7. Fan Griller - This function combines the grill element with fan assistance and is used in conjunction with the thermostat. The Oven door must remain CLOSED during cooking. The thermostat dial should be set between 50-250°C for this function. 
8. Fan-assisted Baking or Patisserie Setting
 - Combines the concealed bottom element with fan assistance and is used in conjunction with the thermostat. The Oven door must remain CLOSED during cooking.

top


Advanced Oven Features

Cavity Cooling

The Oven has an advanced cavity cooling system. A cylindrical fan is mounted on the rear outside frame of the Oven. This fan assists the movement of air through the Oven cavity keeping it cool. In addition to reducing the temperature in the Oven cavity, the air is blown out around the Oven door handle which keeps the door handle cool. The cooling fan is activated when the Oven light or any cooking function is selected and will switch off after all Oven functions have been turned off.

Triple Reflective Door Glazing

Some Ovens have two levels of removable door glass. The two inner layers are removable and are made of a reflective glass which, in effect, reflects heat back into the Oven and results in a significant reduction in the outside door surface temperature. To clean the door glass, use a coin or large screwdriver to remove the screws. Wipe both sides of the inner, middle and outer glass. Wipe the sealing gasket. Don't forget to replace the rubber sealing gasket around the centre glass layer before replacing the glass. Ensure the narrow air gap lies between the inner and centre glass layers and the wider gap lies between the centre and outside glass layers. Tighten each screw gradually, one then the other until firm. Do not overtighten.

Wipe Clean Enamel (Extra Optional)
Some models have easyclean blue enamel paint throughout the internal cavity walls. Other models have baking trays and grill pans finished in the soft grey super tough "wipe clean" enamel. This enamel is less porous than conventional, so that food does not adhere as easily. Simply wipe clean with a soapy cloth or creme cleanser when cooking is finished. For baked on residue, use a smooth scraper or if necessary a non-caustic Oven cleaner.

Drop Down Grill Element (Extra Optional)
The removal of a single screw at the front of the upper grill element in some models allows the element to drop down so that cleaning of the roof of the Oven is made easy. On completion of cleaning, simply replace the grill element and secure with the screw, finger-tight.

top


The Electronic Timer



Normal Baking

Function 3: Normal Oven baking using heat from both the upper element and concealed lower element.

To bake, place the Oven rack in the appropriate position according to the type of food to be cooked. Turn the Function Selector to Position 3 and the thermostat knob to the correct temperature, and allow the Oven to fully preheat for best results.

Ideal for cooking casseroles, soufflés, roast, meats, and other items which require a slow method of cooking.

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Fan Forced Baking

Function 4: Fan-forced central element cooking requires slightly different timing techniques than normal cooking. The fan draws the air in and over the central element which is positioned around the fan and then circulates it back around the Oven cavity. The even distributor of heat allows foods to rise and cook simultaneously regardless of shelf level. Lower cooking temperatures and in some cases less cooking time is another advantage of this feature.

Turn the Function Selector to Position 4 and turn the thermostat to the desired temperature. Pre heating takes much less time than a normal bake Oven.

Note: When cooking meats, for best results always preheat the Oven to ensure the meat surface is sealed to lock-in juices for a moist and tender result.

Fan forced cooking is ideal for multilevel cooking e.g.. patty cakes. Another advantage of fan forced cooking is that different types of food may be cooked simultaneously without mixing the aromas or flavours. When using the Oven in this way, ensure that all the foods require the same cooking temperature and check the finish times of each dish for best results.

Please note that fan-forced cooking is faster than conventional methods, so take care not to burn your food when you first start using this method.

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Grilling

Function 5 & 6: During grilling the door may remain closed or completely open.

This function offers the traditional grilling method necessary to achieve proper browning without overcooking the interior of the foods.

Position 5 activates the centre section of the upper grill element only, which is ideal for browning smaller portions or thinner cuts of meat.

Position 6 activates the entire upper element for the grilling of large quantities or thick cuts of meat.

Allow the griller to pre-heat for approx. 2 minutes before sliding the tray into position.

Place the grill tray into the roasting pan and arrange food according to the function you have selected, either in the centre of the tray or spread across the full width of the tray. Position the tray at the correct grilling level and turn the thermostat control to MAX for best results.

As the temperature is set to MAX you may need to adjust your grilling shelf height to suit the desired cooking result. If the tray is too close to the element, the food will be exposed to the full effect of the element and may burn and create smoke.




Sep 11, 2008 | Ovens

1 Answer

Amana Convection Wall Oven Model AOCS3040 Does Not Heat in any Mode


sure its possible, sounds like you've blown an over limit thermostat behind stove, gets too hot and for safety reasons cuts off unit untill replaced

Feb 11, 2008 | Amana AOCS3040 Electric Single Oven

4 Answers

Top oven will not heat up


Had a similar problem. The overheat sensor had failed to the open position and the oven control would light up and you could set the temp, but it would drop to 100 degrees and then go blank.

Nov 14, 2007 | GE JKP45 Electric Double Oven

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