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the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.
This sounds to me like a Thermostat problem. If it is an electronic version Oven, then it will be the Sensor or PC Board Module controlling temperature. Please let me know what Make and Model your Oven is, so I can better assist you.
We had the same thing happen and now they came and said it was the clock that needs to be replaced. They said that controls the oven. Even though clock is on and working the function for turning on the oven is not
Usually, when an oven won't heat, it's because the bake element is burned out. The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.
does the bake element come on at all? if so, try the oven out. do a bake @ 350 allow it to pre-heat, and see if once the pre-heat is comlete, id the broil shuts off. on many ovens at the beginning of the cycle during pre-heat both bake and broil elements are powered.
other than that it may be a control board, or a burnt and crossed wire in the harness.
check incoming electric first, pull it out and gain access to main wire terminal, With multimeter set to at least 250v AC , check your power across the wiring as such. black to white (110v), red to white(110v) and then black to red 230v. if that ok ok turn, then start ckin elements for continuty also there might be a thermostat( usually an 1 in. round component with 2 wires located right inbetween the elements that has gone bad, will show no continuity. ck that before electronic control the fact that its clickin sounds like the relays are workin properly
i have had this problem twice. once was the heating element actually had shorted out because the little ceramic holders had broken, this necessitated getting new element. can be checked out with an ohmmeter by yourself or by taking element into appliance repair place. the other time, it was that the manual reset switch had tripped after a self-clean cycle. actually at the moment, that has happened again- design flaw perhaps in the RSD30 range? so anyone who can tell a reasonable competent refrigeration/HVAC technician where the manual reset switch is would be appreciated.