Question about Kenmore 62882 Electric Dryer

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Dryer Problem - Kenmore

I am having a little problem with my dryer. I can get it to turn on. The outlet works, I plugged in an old dryer and it works. The one I am trying to replace with has been in storage for about 2 years. I didn't know if there was some sort of reset button or something like that. I disconnected the power supply and clean and reconnected, still no luck. Not sure what the problem may be. Please help me!

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  • Scott Langford May 07, 2007

    I have ohmed it out, everything seems to be in working order. I cleaned everything out, and I still can't get it to turn on. Any other suggestions?

  • Scott Langford May 08, 2007

    Checked the door switch it is fine. I tested the high limit cut out, and it seemed fine, but I didn't jump it out. Should I try yo jump every piece out? They all check out when I test them. Also, when I try to start it back up, do I have to have all of the piece back on the back? Not sure what to try next. Thanks for your help, keep the suggestions coming. Thanks again!

  • Scott Langford May 14, 2007

    Okay Catriver, I finally got the dryer to turn on. It was actually the power cord that was bad. I switched the power cord and it turns on now. The first time it fired up, it ran fine with heat. Then I put it back together, and now I don't get any heat AND the timer does not count down. I jumped the high end voltage fuse on the heating element; that did not make a difference. Then I actually reset the breaker, and I got heat again and the timer couted down. Then I put it back together, and no heat and timer does not count down. Not sure what it going on here. Suggestions? Again, thank you for your help.

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  • 878 Answers

Scotty, this is an electric dryer, as long as you are sure the power is ok, start with the thermal fuse. The dryer won't run if it's bad. Remove the back panel and ohm it out. Or you can jump it temp. to verify that's the problem but don't leave it that way. Check the pic. start there and post back...Catriver.

Posted on May 01, 2007

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  • Ron Marek
    Ron Marek May 07, 2007

    Scotty, next move would be the door switch itself, make sure it's working and then the high limit cut out. This would be the top one on the heater housing. Jump it out and see if it starts. Catriver..post back.

  • Ron Marek
    Ron Marek May 10, 2007

    OK, Scotty, if you sure all those switches are ok, lets go to the push to start button. Should be a black and white/red (you may need to look at your schematic, should be under the consol.) You should have 120V going to the black. Then with someone pushing the button in,door closed, you should have 120V to the black and white/red. If you have this voltage, the next move is to the motor belt safety switch. This switch has to be making in order for the motor to operate. This is why it's important to follow the shematic with your machine. Just follow the line up from the drive motor to the push to start switch. The colors I posted may be wrong. If you don't have the voltage to the push to start switch (black) then our problem might be in the timer. Catriver.

  • Ron Marek
    Ron Marek May 11, 2007

    Scotty, I got a hold of your schematic, looks like this is a even heat dryer. When you hold the push to start button, does the dryer run? If so, it's the even heat board. It looks like there are two black wires coming off the push to start. With the unit on timed dry and air fluff, should have 120V to the black coming in. With the button pushed, 120V across both the terminals. With the dryer on timed dry, air fluff setting, check the BK terminal at the timer to any nuetral, should read 120V. If no voltage, check terminal L1 to nuetral, should have 120V. If L1 is ok, check voltage at BU, if no voltage there, replace the timer. Catriver.

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