110volt washing machine mistakenly connected to 220 volt,
Wihtin seconds I have disconnected the machine from the power, but when I tried to put on by connecting to 110volt, not working now, what would be the problem, its a Hitachi top loading automatic washing machine, is it a major problem?
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If you are referring to the 3 pronged 110volt black electric cord, the answer is yes. If you mean an extension cord, the answer is yes if it is heavy duty. ( 15 Amp.)
Be sure to hook it up correctly, with the hot wire going to the correct connection inside the machine.
God bless your efforts.
You never mentioned the voltage on your present power washer except it is a 5HP, 7 Amp , 3 phase one. There are no issues if the washer is 220-230 mains power and all you need is a generator which can deliver about 10-15 amps at 220 volt.
Just as a wild guess, the control circuit in the washer may not work with 60 Hz shipboard power. The motor probably is not affected. You must be getting awfully tired of hauling that washer back and forth!
Hello Troy, I have checked the schematic which should be located behind the sloping front panel above the washer lid. The washer portion is powered by 110 vac supplied from the dryer's L1 connection (black) and the neutral (white). It should be quite simple to make an adapter with "hardware store" parts like a standard 20 amp plug and an appropriate 220 volt receptical. Please verify that the neutral lead goes to chassis ground and make use of the 110 plug's ground to the receptacal ground (green headed screws) with a seperate lead, for your safety. When the machine is plugged into the adapter, only the washer should function. As a final note, I see that the dryer motor and timer are also 110 volt but are connected from the other hot lead, L2, to neutral. Only the heater is powered by 220 vac. Therefore if you should connect to L2 by mistake, only the dryer drum would operate. Unfortunately, I do not see a simple way to make both the washer and dryer run on a single 110 feed.
You're not going to be able to do this with just a known Horse Power.
There are 3 elements to the equation, with any two, you can work out the third.
If you want to know how the amperage, you will need to know the voltage and wattage of the motor. I imagine that you already know the voltage (It's going to be 220V or 110 volt)
Watts divided by volts = Amps
A 220v 1000 watt motor (1000 divided by 220) will draw 4.55 amps A 110v 800 watt motor (800 divided by 110) will draw 7.27 amps
Bear in mind that most washing machines have a couple of windings for wash and spin. As an average, the was winding will usually be about 500 watts to spin and about 250 watts to wash. ALSO, bear in mind that if you are using this data for a WASHING MACHINE, then there is a water heating element in there too and that draws about 2Kw (2000 watts)
Dont just take this as read, you DO need to check wattages, but, working on what I have just said, the max consumption on a 220V machine will look like this:
At Spin, with a 500 Watt consumption: (500/220) = 2.3 amps While Washing with a 250 watt consumption: (250/220) = 1.14 amps
Consider that the WASH and HEAT may be running at the same time. 2Kw heating (2000/220) = 9.1 amps PLUS 1.14 amps for the motor - Total wattage 10.24 amps
Watts / Volts = Amps Amps x Volts = Watts Watts divided by amps = Volts
Never plug a 110 volt anything into a 220 volt supply and never plug a 220 volt anything into a 110 volt supply. They are just not designed to do so. Their electronic's power supply and their motors are specifically for the specific voltages. Changing the plug at the end does absolutely nothing. I just hope I have got to you in time!!!
Check for ~220 volts AC across the two slanted contacts on the dryer power socket. If nothing, check the house electrical panel for tripped dryer circuit breakers(pair)--push the breakers OFF, then ON to reset. Recheck for 220 volts at dryer socket--if ok now, try the dryer. You need to use a voltmeter for this checking. If it starts, then quits, you likely have an internal short (heating element) inside the dryer case that trips the circuit breakers.
When everything does'nt work the problem is usually esier to solve..it implies a faulty power source.
The fault may lie internal or external to machine. To rule out external machine fault try to use some other appliance on the same plug point if it works we know the probles lies within the machine.
If the problem lies within the machine, unplug power source and open the machine.determine where the power cable terminates within the machine. We are now going to check for breakages in the powe cable (that connect the machine to power source) You will require a multimeter. With the multimeter placed on continuity mode check for continuity between the plug point and internal terminating point, you need to perform the continuity test for both live and neutral in unplugged mode.
Next if the fault is ruled out in the cable the fault most certainly lies in the SMPS to check this we need to take a few precautions and carefully observe the power input and output points on the washing machines SMPS (Switch Mode PowerSupply) older machines use a transformer but it all boils down to correctly determining the input and output terminals.
Now with the multimeter in Volt meter mode(AC), carfully power the machine through AC Mains, ensure that the ground and machine are not damp (wet) without having physical contact with the machine you need to test the voltage across the input terminals (this should read around 110 to 220 (AC)Volts depending on the standards of your country) then check the voltage off the input terminals this should read between 20 and 80 Volts DC.
In most cases with your typical problem mentioned you will fail to receive an output voltage at this stage and can conclude that the SMPS is faulty.
If the SMPS is faulty you'd simply have to change it , in some cases though these have detachable fuses which blow off. In the lastter case you can try a fuse rep[placement.
This should solve your problem.