Question about GE WSXH208A Front Load Washer

3 Answers

GE frontloader door gasket ripped

Our GE front loading washing machine WCVH6260 is less than 6 months old. We found water on the basement floor and in the pedestal stand drawers beneath. On investigating, we found the door gasket was ripped with no evidence of any sharp objects having been inside to cause such a tear. I have also encountered the same problem. My washer is a few years old; however it was never used until I received it this fall. I noticed water on my floor and inside the drawer of the pedistal. My washer has only been used for a few months. I have spent several hours surfing the net looking for repair parts.

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  • Anonymous Jan 02, 2009

    would like john in erie repair suggestion.

  • Anonymous Jan 07, 2009

    I have the same problem and can't seem to know where to find the part and would like to know how to change it. Thank you.

  • Anonymous Jan 07, 2009

    I am trying to find where to get the replacement seal/gasket and where to find the directions on how to change it. Thank you

  • krnschlg Jan 07, 2009

    We have Model WBVH6240 front loader and have found a ripped gasket also. Would like to know how to take it out and replace it.

  • xojude Jan 07, 2009

    Where do you get the parts?

  • krickett23 Jan 12, 2009

    Just noticed a huge rip. Went to put away towel that were on the floor and they were soaked. the gray rubber gasjet thingy majig has a huge gash. I remember the repiar man said it would cost like $350 to replace. Can anyone help me? Where do i get the part is it hard to do myself??

  • britt001 Jan 24, 2009

    I have the same issue, a chunk of mine is missing, where can I buy the part? That part can not be that expenisive! I can find it for several otehr front loading machines and it is under $50

  • mreyn01 Jan 24, 2009

    I need john_in_erie directions too.

  • Anonymous Jan 25, 2009

    I have the same problem also.... once already a GE repair man has been in to fix the problem saying that it is a common occurence, stating it was a poor design flaw. The first large rubber gasket the seals up against the door window was replace at 6 months... now already the second has gone and it is only 3 months old.. less than a year ... im very disappointed in the washer machine so far... it has lots of features... but the spin cycle usually takes 3 to 4 times the actual time it says... due to it becomes easily unbalanced during spin, and stops and trys to recorrect itself... so your 38 min speed cycle takes more like 2 hours sometimes...

  • rhod706 Feb 27, 2009

    Same thing, I noticed water on the floor and a piece is just gone from the gasket, how do we repair?

  • venablea Mar 05, 2009

    Same problem there is a rip in the gasket. I called GE to order the part and it was $149.50 for the part and with shipping $173.67. All you need is the model# of the washer and tell them it is the rubber seal in the front that is ripped and they know exactly what the problem is. Just makes me sick. We have only had this machine for 2 years and the cost of the part is outrageous. I would have been better off to buy a cheap machine and not had any problems. This is the second problem I have had with this machine. My local appliance store wants to charge me $45 to come out to the house and then $60 to install it for me. This will cost almost $300, I might as well buy a new machine!

  • zuescapt Mar 11, 2009

    my washer seal broke at about one year old. the gasket is very thin after looking at my other daughters machine. it would appear that ge should be doing a recall on these seals or have a class action suit for defective design and product.

  • Anonymous Mar 16, 2009

    I have the same problem. Ripped gasket and facing a $350.00 bill. Poor design and poor manufacturing.

  • Anonymous Mar 20, 2009

    i don't know that this warrants a repeat description of the same problem....my machine is only a year old and you can bet I will be calling GE...I will honestly never buy another GE machine and I am a GE employee

  • gmasoup Apr 10, 2009

    I have the same problem with the GE frontloader gasket with a chunk out of it. Have no idea what happened have had it less than 6 mo. also. Would like to know how to take it out and replace it. Where do I find John-in-erie's solution?

  • Strawberree Apr 17, 2009

    Second time the gasket has ripped and caused flooding in my basement. Called GE today and they referred me to their Consumer Affairs department. Told me that I could have the part for a discount or free but I would have to pay for labor and "diagnosis". I know the freaking problem since it has happened once before. I've had the washer less than 3 years and this is the fourth time I will have had to get it serviced. Unbelievable. Customer support says that it is not a defect and that there is not a significant amount of complaints, and yet a very brief web search shows all kinds of complaints. I am so angry I ever wasted my money on this machine. It also causes holes in my garments frequently and has ruined more than 50 pieces of clothing. Ugh.

  • Anonymous Apr 30, 2009

    Ditto the gasket. Seeing lots of references to instructions, but where to find them?

  • Anonymous May 03, 2009

    Same problem and basement ceiling has extensive damage. Trying to find john_in_erie to get instructions..can anyone post a link?

  • Anonymous May 03, 2009

    I have a G E front loader about a year old, It also has this problem of a split in the gasket. Any one know where to find a diragram to the repacement of it.

  • debsikins May 11, 2010

    Here is Jon in Eries response

    Replacing gasket is fairly simple - need 2 people. UNPLUG FIRST - 1. Remove the plastic cover on top of machine that is mounted to back of control panel. 2. remove dispenser - push down on tab at back and it will slide all the way out. 3. Remove lower front cover by removing 3 screws holding it on bottom. 4. Remove 3 screws holding top panel on back of machine and slide cover back approximately 1 inch and lift off. 5. Remove the 3 screws that hold the control panel on - note these are different type of screw so keep track of which screw goes where - one of the screws is next to dispenser opening. Once this is done you can reach in to machine and disengage locking tab on right side under "washer temp" - have someone hold this part aside if you do not want to disconnect the cables. 6. Remove spring loaded wire securing door seal to front cover. 7. Remove the the 4 screws holding the front cover on. This item is a bit heavy so be careful. Disconnect the three door latch wire harness and place this aside. 8. On the right side of the gasket you will find the clamp screw that holds the seal to the drum - loosen this screw almost all the way and remove this wire clamp. carefully remove the two tube connections and remove the gasket completely. Take note how these were installed before removing. Now you can carefully clean the gasket seats on the drown and door and replace the gasket and reverse the steps to put the machine together. While you have the covers off it would make sense to remove and clean the pump strainer mounted on the lower cross support - this can be messy with lots of water coming out so go slowly and have plenty of towels and a shallow pan to catch the water with. HOPE this helps.

    Comments:


    Nov 23, 2007- Note in step step 5 there are actually five screws - not 3.

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We had the same problem, I printed off the solution posted by john_in_erie. His repair directions were VERY acurate, however we find a few helpful additions to the repairs - 1st in step #6, the spring loaded wire, is in the front of the gasket under seal (we were looking on top of machine). Also in step #8, you need a short phillips screwdriver or a 7 mm socket with a 1/4" ratchet because of the position of the screw to get around the edge of the tub.
Thank you so much John, we could have not done it without your very accurate installation instructions.
Lori & Mitch Headen

Posted on Jan 01, 2009

  • txtigerpaw
    txtigerpaw May 04, 2012

    The list is growing...I had the same problelm with five small holes and water all over the laundry room. This does not look like an easy repair. Thanks for the repair instructions. Regards, Larry

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I have had to clean out the filter on this POS GE washing machine about every other month. If I don't then it stops spinning. My wife even has put all of her undees in mesh bags so they don't get sucked in. What a stinky mess!! Now, my floor is flooded!!!! I looked at the rubber seal in the front and there is a chunk missing out of the bottom right corner, a 2 inch tear in the bottom middle and a 10 inch tear along the top right side. We have had someone come out twice for this crappy washer. The first time was to tell us that the filter was the culprit. The second time was because the main drum that holds the clothes wasn't spinning correctly and had actually fowled up on the mechanism that turns it in the back of the machine. I think that is why the rubber boots keep ripping on everyones machines is because of the main drum wobbling around so much it just tears the **** out of the rubber seals. I'm calling GE in the morning to tell them my story and demanding a free rubber seal or a replacement washer, and giving them this thread and others I have found as a referrance.

Posted on Aug 26, 2009

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And I too thank john_in_erie...I had called a repairman to replace the gasket I ordered...he never came....so I thought, why not give it a try...if I get stuck, the repair guy can finish....I hear the sound of the washer doing its thing!!!!

and I can't stop smiling!!!!

Posted on Mar 29, 2009

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SOURCE: GE frontloader door gasket ripped

We had the same problem. We only washed clothes in it like 3 times and we had water all over our brand new built house. Luckily the store we bought it from brought us a new machine. I refused having them fix it after water ran all inside the machine. Now I have a problem with the washer EATING our clothes up. Lost a packer jersey and 3 pairs of pants!! I'd never buy one again.

Posted on Jan 25, 2008

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Replacing gasket is fairly simple - need 2 people. UNPLUG FIRST - 1. Remove the plastic cover on top of machine that is mounted to back of control panel. 2. remove dispenser - push down on tab at back and it will slide all the way out. 3. Remove lower front cover by removing 3 screws holding it on bottom. 4. Remove 3 screws holding top panel on back of machine and slide cover back approximately 1 inch and lift off. 5. Remove the 3 screws that hold the control panel on - note these are different type of screw so keep track of which screw goes where - one of the screws is next to dispenser opening. Once this is done you can reach in to machine and disengage locking tab on right side under "washer temp" - have someone hold this part aside if you do not want to disconnect the cables. 6. Remove spring loaded wire securing door seal to front cover. 7. Remove the the 4 screws holding the front cover on. This item is a bit heavy so be careful. Disconnect the three door latch wire harness and place this aside. 8. On the right side of the gasket you will find the clamp screw that holds the seal to the drum - loosen this screw almost all the way and remove this wire clamp. carefully remove the two tube connections and remove the gasket completely. Take note how these were installed before removing. Now you can carefully clean the gasket seats on the drown and door and replace the gasket and reverse the steps to put the machine together. While you have the covers off it would make sense to remove and clean the pump strainer mounted on the lower cross support - this can be messy with lots of water coming out so go slowly and have plenty of towels and a shallow pan to catch the water with. HOPE this helps.

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