Jbl was working fine it gets warm these days so i keep a fan on her not working at all now and the unit is getting power

Does the power light come on? If not, check the power cord and power outlet on the wall. Maybe plug in a table lamp to the wall power outlet to make sure the outlet is working. If the power light is on, check the Mute button on your JBL remote control. Also check the Mute button on your TV if sound and picture go through the TV first.
We had a Harman Kardon soundbar (model SB30) made by the same company as your JBL. It worked great for a few months. Then there were a couple of funny high-pitched sounds that stopped when we turned the soundbar off and back on. Then a day or two later we truned on the soundbar and it was completely dead - no sound at all. Harmon/JBL replaced the soundbar under warranty with a refurbished one which lasted about two weeks and dies the same as the first one. Finally, they replaced the second one with a higher model (the SB35) which is still working, although it occasionally makes a rapid clicking noise for a moment here & there.

You have a direct short in the A/C unit probably at the compressor or your condenser fan motor. You can disconnect one component at a time to identify where it is shorting. turn power off unwire condenser fan motor secure wires so they dont touch anything plug unit in if it still pops breaker your compressor is probably bad.

Hi Jayne.
The long-time-resetting-syndrome points, IMHO to an intermittent overloading fault causing a PTC, or resettable fuse, to become open circuit. These specialized fuses, once activated, can take minutes, days, or apparently in some cases, weeks to reset themselves.
Alternatively, it could be a dry solder joint, where the lead/tin/silver resin solder did not flow properly onto the component wire.
In this case, as sets warms up to a certain point, it works fine, until thermal expansion shifts the joint just enough to disconnect it.
Try slapping the back of the unit if it acts up, or get it checked out.
Regards, Clive.

I think your unit is working in good condition. If you keep in cool mode the out door fan runs to condensate the heat in condenser by taking fresh air from the ambient. And when you keep heat mode, definitely the ambient temp will be too less.I fit takes from their then compressor will get frozting and it couldn't work properly. Depending on pressure increase, the fan will automatically run and stop. Don't worry. Thanks.

You can download the service manuals here and read the service bulletin and check per manual.
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Service%20Manual/PB10%20sm.pdf

http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Service%20Manual/PB12%20sm.pdf

Hopefully the ClassD module is not bad.
This is what I have done to my: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/JBL%20PB-12%20mod/

Service manuals: http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Service%20Manual/PB10%20sm.pdf
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/HOM/Service%20Manual/PB12%20sm.pdf

My ClassD module shorted out (buzzing sound/blown fuse) and not availabled any more so this is what I did: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/JBL%20PB-12%20mod/
I would suggest to buy new one.

might have roasted your speakers voice coils a little which may be sending the amp into protect mode throw a speaker on it that you know works and if it doesnt trigger the protect circuit then you probably have a blown or almost sub.

The power supply consists of two parts: the AC cord with a two-prong connector on one end and a double barrel plastic connector; and the large rectangular power supply which has a dual prong receptor on the side and a long cable which plugs into the JBL unit.

In my case, I had plugged the double barrel plastic connector into the dual prong receptor backwards. Even though I was getting full power to the unit, this somehow caused the speakers to become inoperative.

Of course, I would offer a recommendation to JBL that their power supplies are made to be "dummy proof" so this does not happen to others as well.

Check the relay and the compressor with a volt meter. Make sure that you are getting proper voltage. 110 - 120 volts at both the relay and the compressor. If nothing happens or everytime you try to test and the circuit keeps popping first check for bad wiring make sure nothing has come loose. If all the wiring checks out including the ground then the only thing that will pop a circuitbreaker is a bad compressor meaning it is drawing to many amp and you will either need to have a company replace the compressor for around 600 dollars or get a new unit

Unfortunately, this is a fairly common problem with many small consumer electronics. The way that the devices are manufactured, there is an IR receiver that is soldered onto the PCB inside the unit. Sometimes this circuitry fails. There aren't any options on the Radial that would turn the option the remote off. Your best bet is that if the unit is still within the return period of the store you purchased it at, to return if. If it is outside of the return policy, I would give JBL consumer line a call to get the unit serviced, or get a replacement. Good Luck!