3 year old roper dryer. first time do-it-yourselfer. I took the back panel off and checked the heating element (no breaks). I'm on my way to buy a voltage meter tomorrow morning to check voltage on the cut-off fuse and the thermostat. Is there a trick to getting the wires out of the housing? I can't dislodge them from the fuse or the thermometer with just a little force and am not entirely sure that they're supposed to come out at all. A basic question, but isn't that how all do-it-yourselfers start? Thanks for all your help - this is a great forum.
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depending on which model roper dryer it can be a thermal fuse,high-limit thermostat,cycling switch,burned off wire in control panel,check each side of the heating element to ground and find 125 v.a.c. then on the side of the element that has low or no voltage on it to ground start at the element and back track the components leading to the dead leg on the element till you find 125 vac to ground and replace or repair component or wire,then you should get 240 to 250vac across heating element terminals
The thermal cut-off , which is the small t-stat looking piece located at the top of the element housing ( on vertical mount elements ) or the far front of the element housing ( on horizontal mount elements ) , is usually the cause for no heat .
I don't have a picture of the rear panel available, but if you have to remove the exhaust duct to remove the panel, I would be checking to ensure the exhaust ducting is not clogged/restricted. The duct does not have to be completely blocked to cause the dryer not to heat properly.
Please take the time to give this solution a fix ya rating.
Yank the filter out the top. Remove the 2 screws in the filter housing. Use a putty knife to pop the top and then remove the screws holding the front on. NOTE: raise up on the front panel slightly so you won't damage the bottom clips. Get the front out yer way and remove the drum. Clean out the dryer and oil the rollers and idler. Use this handy ROUTING GUIDE to see how to put the belt back.
Everthing is on the back. Unplug the appliance. remove the rear panel. This is a sweet machine. Very easy to fix. The element comes right off easily (2 screws either side of it). Look for breaks. if the element is kosher check the hi-limit mounted on the same heater above on the left. Hey here is some pic:NOTE Not shown is the 300 degree limit mounted at the top!!!
Get a thermostat and place it in the exhaust. The thermostat should reach 160 and then shut down and drop to 120 F and start back heating to 160 again on cotton setting. You should hear an audible click when the thermostat opens and closes. If the dryer is clear of lint and blockages then change the control thermostat which is mounted on the blower housing.
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.