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Re: dryer not going to cool down cycle, thermal fuse...
Most problems like this arise from air flow problems. You need to break down the dryer and clean out the lint. Including removal of the filter housing.making sure your outside vent is clear as well.If that fuse keeps blowing you especially need to remove and rinse out that filter housing.
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you have an airflow problem. Check the vent hose all the way out and the outdoor vent hood.
a simple verification can be performed by disconnecting the vent hose from the dryer and see if this solves the problem.
It could be a number of things, but i would start with these first:
The thermal fuse is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
There are also a couple of 'thermostats' that could be the problem:
The 'high limit thermostat' is a safety device mounted on the heating chamber and is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating when the exhaust vent is restricted. A restricted vent will cause the high limit thermostat to trip or activate, interrupting the circuit to the heating element or gas valve. The high limit thermostat is not designed to activate repeatedly like a cycling thermostat and will eventually fail causing a no heat symptom. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. If there is no continuity then it will need to be replaced and the restricted vent system corrected as well.
Cycling thermostats control the temperature inside the dryer drum. They are designed to "cycle" the heating element on and off to maintain the correct amount of heat. Cycling thermostats are normally located on the blower housing or elsewhere in the internal airflow ducting. Over time, the cycling thermostat can become defective. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter.
I hope this helps you fix the problem.
The thermal cut-off at the top of the heater duct/housing blows when the high-limit thermostat below it fails to cycle the heating element on and off properly to regulate the heater temperature. This thermal cut-off along with high-limit thermostat including the cycling thermostat on the blower housing are wired in series with the heating element and power to it is cut when the thermal cut-off blows as a safety feature to prevent fire. Verify this
condition by bypassing the said components. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem. Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating
The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The problem is very likely in the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the blower housing. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and cuts power to the heating element. Both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat need to be replaced if the former is blown open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this kind of problem. Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating
your cycling thermostat needs changed too. the thermal fuse is your last safety measure that goes, which means your cycling thermostat is not shutting down the heat element once it detects the right temp hot air in the blower housing so it let the heat element glow until either the high-limit sensor shuts the heat down or the thermal fuse blows. Change the cycling thermostat and good luck
Change your cycling thermostat. When your cycling thermostat fails, then the reponsibility of your heating element to shut down goes to the high-limit thermal shut off (closest to heat element) and the thermal fuse. Your cycling thermostat should shut down heat element when it detects about 140* air in the blower housing. Yours can't detect that anymore so it lets your dryer heat up and up till you blow the thermal. new cycling thermostat and thermal
hi stella. yes the problem is with the thermal fuse. when you were cleaning the vent at the left. the thermal fuse is right there, on the air duct, a small piece of plastic with 2 blue wires to it . replace the thermal fuse . thanks the appliance doc