I would try to get a relay with a capacitor. The easiest way to do this is to get what is called a 3 in 1 (relay, overload and capacitor). They are interchangeable with all refrig compressors, just make sure you hook it up correctly (there should be a diagram on the package). If that doesn't work, than unfortunately, you need a new compressor.
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Don't believe it would be the ignition switch. It sounds like the starter relay may be stuck in the on position. Find the starter relay and pull it out. One terminal would be hot at all times-use a test light grounded to engine block and probe the relay terminals. Should only have one terminal showing power. Now have someone hold the key in start position. Now you should have two terminals showing power, and when key is released to the run position, the second hot terminal should stop showing power. If it works like this, try a new relay, or a known good one. If second terminal still shows power without key being in start (cranking) position, then it may be the ignition switch or the wiring and connections between the switch and the starter relay. You will keep burning starters out till fixed. Starters that are run more than a few seconds at a time will get too hot and burn out.
Hello if the start relay is rattling it is at fault and would have to be replaced. You may have connectivity between all poles but if the inside of the relay is rattling you would most likely have one side touching the other when the compressor trys to start which would not make the compressor start at all. It would be like taking the hot and grounding it out before it had a chance to reach where it is supposed to be grounding out to or not even makeing it to the common side at all. I would first look at replaceing the start relay and overload and then see how your unit is running after replaceing these two with the new replacements. If you have any further questions message me back Thanks Rick
you need to check if the compresser is red hot if so change the relay to a 3 and 1 overload relay very easy to in stall trick put a floor fan pointed at the compresser let it run a while see if you notice a difference
If you have already tried shutting off for 24 hrs. (reset), cleaning the under-bed condenser fins (vacuum and/or compressed air) and the issue still continues, you may be lucky enough to just need a relay/overload switch; the thingy connected to the compressor, which by the way takes patience and ease in removing. However, once the plastic cover is off, simply unplug the relay switch(s) and shake it, if you hear rattling (or) smell burn, the relay is toast and thus needs replacement. Simple enough, for replacement type in the model # of the compressor: (i.e.) [[ Embraco FGS 80 with relay/overload switch ]] cost around ($30-$50)... order, replace, re-plug, and if on target, the compressor will kick in. let run for 24 hours before adding foods, and all is good. Have a nice day. ee
there are no fuses on a domestic freezer that i have ever seen. there are no fans and there are no traditional freezer coils. so you have only a few things that could be going on. if the temp is way up the thermostat should sense hot and close and send power to the compressor and it should run. you can do one of two things . find the thermostat inside the freezer usually . gently remove cover and check incoming terminal and outgoing terminal. if you show 120 volts its open and the stats bad. if you don't show 120 volts between terminal connections then its closed and the compressor is failing to start. if power is coming into the stat when checked to ground then go to compressor and see if there are starting components . they are a start capacitor and a START RELAY AND PERHAPS A OVER LOAD . SEE IF POWER IS ARRIVING AT THE COMPRESSOR. IF SO CHECK THE MICROFARED OUTPUT OF THEcapacitor . you need within 10 percent of the rated value. also you can gently remove the overload , a little plastic disc and look on the bottom side and see if its cracked or burned looking. an amp probe on the compressor will tell you what amps it pulls if it trys to fire up . 6 to 10 is good 30 to 50 is mechanically locked up and then the overload trips. if compressor is ice cold to touch then your not getting power to the compressor and its not trying to run. if its hot to the touch thens its trying but start caps weak , or its locked up. most domestic freezers are not worth the cost of a new compresssor anymore. good luck
Sounds like it might be the thermostat sensor bulb is defective see if you can turn the refrigerator off with the thermostat the defrost heater is supposed to heat up enough to open the defrost thermostat
Make sure the defrost timer works to turn on lhe heater & turn off the defrost tstat turn the power off and check the tstat & defrost heater for continuity check to see if tstat open and closes when you turn the knob,
if you remove the tstat you can check the bulb in ice water and warm water aborv 40 to see if tstat cycles on and off
We had a Kenmore upright which worked fine but then suddenly was not keeping food frozen. Long story short, do not store anything on top of the freezer unit. It will insulate the coils that run across the top of the unit, and cause your compressor to work harder than it needs to, and eventually overheat and become ineffective. Says nothing about it in the user manual. We learned the hard way by losing food.