When burners come on makes a swiching noise and then goes out and

I'm a little confused on your description of the noise. If I understand you correctly It is making the noise when it shifts smoothly into gear but at the same time it makes a grinding noise ? It possibly can be synchronizers if the grooves on the inside of the synchronizers are worn bad enough to where the gear isn't slowing down enough causing a grind as the clutching teeth on the gear mesh with the synchrode and the shift collar.
If it is making noise in all gears except 4th you may have countershaft brgs failing. The power flow in 4th gear goes directly through the mainshaft and has a 1 to 1 ratio. All other gears the powerflow goes through the countershaft causing a load on the countershaft so if you have bearings failing in the countershaft you will hear noise in all gears but 4th.
i hope I understood you correctly .

have you had the alternator checked to make sure it is turning the right way if so the alt is overcharging and will burn them and the battery both up and there is a possibility of causing the vechicle of catching on fire

check your cap and culk as needed.. Make sure the switch is to the lite postion and then you can turn the water switch to a higher temp. to make burner lite and then set back to normal temp..

This clicking noise would be an indication that the burner is 'burnt out'. Burners have individual ports that release individual flames to create one big flame.

If the burner has a hole in it or the burner's internal baffles are burnt out the burner will make a 'popping' or 'clicking' noise.

Also, heat makes metals expand and when metal expands it makes a clicking noise. The increase in flame could be because the burner has a large hole in it or the holes are increasing in size as they expand, thus throwing a larger flame.

Just a thought.

Ben Gaetani

Tanks 2 You Propane

propanetanks2you.com

the burner swich is going bad its melting inside switch from lack of contact to points replace switch

make sure knob on gas valve(inside heater)is turned to on position.3/4" should be fine as long as heater is not larger than than 175,000 btu

take millivolt reads while main burner is on.i suspect you will see a drop in voltage until you get to point where it will no longer operate burner(around 200mv).if this is the case you probably have poor pilot characteristics due to dirty pilot,pilot out of adjustment ,obstruction or insufficient gas pressure

I must assume that the unit uses manual controls for the burners.....if the orifice feeding the burner is plugged (some sort of spill) the gas will not reach the burner for it to light. If it is just one burner, I would investigate a plugged orifice feeding that burner.....if it is all the top burners, there may be a supply problem. let me know what you find.

clarkco

Please post the make and model as well as teh flash count. Many TVs will repeat a blink count to indicate the circuit that has the problem.
Dan

I have a viking gas cooktop. The ignitor on one of my front burners wouldn't stop clicking even after the flame ignited. I swapped that ignitor with the ignitor from a back burner, expecting that the problem was with the ignitor and that the back burner would start to click incessantly, but at least I'd have my favorite front burner for use. Instead, the front burner was then only clicking 50% of the time and the back burner was fine, suggesting the problem was related to the burner not the ignitor. I pulled the front ignitor a bit away from the burner and now it is working normally. Hope this helps.