I found a copper drain pipe has worked loose from the kitchen sink. The pipe enters a tee that goes to the soil stack and down into the slab. The copper pipe appears good but the solder joint failed going into the tee. The location is right at a wall stud in the wall. Any suggestions possibly without a torch?
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Re: 1.5" copper drain joint loose in wall
You can use one the putty type of epoxy repairs. They are very easy to use. Just make sure you have everything extremely clean where the putty will touch. Cut off as much as you think you will need and knead it to a uniform color. Don't mess with it too long though, it will start to harden in 3 - 4 minutes. Once it starts to harden, you're done working with it. It sets up real fast.
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To solder aluminum and a copper wire? You do not need any special tools or equipment - just use the standard soldering iron, traditional SnPb solder, grease (lubricant) and sandpaper.
Apply grease to the soldered aluminum surface, regrind this "greasy" surface with sandpaper so excite the surface layer of aluminum oxide (Al2O3). Grease prevent air going to the purified aluminum and its rapid re-oxidation to the Al2O3 and lets to adhere molten SnPb solder to aluminum. Once the aluminum surface is covered with a layer of SnPb solder ("tinned"), clean it with a degreasing agent out of grease and may be normal solder to another "solder-tinned" material - for example, a copper wire.
I would search on line, if you already havn't. Otherwise a replacement faucet is $20-$30. turn the water off inside the house, drain the line, and use two wrenches to remove the faucet, (one to hold the pipe and one to turn the faucet).
I was searching this and accidentally found the answer. Just for future reference, the issue with mine was the contacts between the station and the tip, where you have to lock it. Wiggling it would get rid of the error, so I looked at the contacts (the pins that go into it) and sure enough they were mildly corroded. I brushed them off a little bit and it worked fine. If I get a new tip, I'd look into something that prevents rust, possibly WD-40, to prolong the life.
try reshaping the tip to a dull point with a file or grinder. Then heat it up and apply solder onto the bare copper tip coating it completely. you can clean the excess off with a wet sponge. This is called "Tinning" tthe tip.
This happens quite frequently. On the tip there are two nuts that hold the tip to the gun. Tighten them a bit. The tip is made of copper and as this heats, it causes the connection where the nuts are to become a higher resistance and thus lower heat. When you tighten them, it "cuts" through the copper oxidation (caused by the heat) and lowers the resistance, hence more heat.
Bits: It's useful to have a small selection of manufacturer's bits (soldering iron tips) available with different diameters or shapes, which can be changed depending on the type of work in hand. You'll probably find that you become accustomed to, and work best with, a particular shape of tip. Often, tips are iron-coated to preserve their life, or they may be bright-plated instead. Copper tips are seldom seen these days.