Mitsubishi WD-62525 timer light keeps flashing after lamp replace
My tv has been saying the lamp has reached its life for a couple weeks. It finally went dead and I replaced the lamp. The timer light keeps blinking and I can not turn the tv on. Any ideas? I was thinking it could be the ballast since the old bulb had shards of glass on the inside, I thought it might have spiked the lamp to go bad.
If the lamp LED is blinking yellow, that indicates that the lamp door or the air filter door are not closed properly. The power LED will blink green for about a minute when the TV is plugged back in indicating that it is rebooting. After the TV reboots, the power LED will go out and it should work normally. If the lamp LED shows solid red, then the lamp has failed. Check to make sure the lamp socket is seated properly. You can't see it and it is very tricky.
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This is a common issue for DLP TV's the bulbs they have are made to last 2000-4000 life hours for Osram lamps this is the lamp the Mitsubishi usually uses so depending how old the lamp is this could be your problem I found the lamp you need for a good price
Hi,do you hear any strange noises? If you hear clicking or like wanting to turn on it could be the board that powers the lamp it's called the ballast.Here's the instructions to replace it for a samsung ,it works like your mitusibishi:http://www.fixyourdlp.com/guides/samsung/bp47-00033a.php The ballast has a sensor that detects when it's not able to power the lamp or if lamp is not responding,it will flash red when that sensor detects that.When you say: "it began to roll like the vertical and horizontal hold did not work
then the sound went out" Do you mean you where getting horizontal lines? If you did that could be the Dmd.his is how it works: http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/dlp1.htm Basically the light of the lamp goes through a tunnel that carries a color wheel(rotating disc with a gamma of colors that creates the colors on your tv)then the light of the lamp goes through the DMD board which is a chip composed of around 2 million pixels that creates the images and colors.When it starts to fail it will create black bars,pixelation,color distortion or white dots on screens. Usually when there's a green light it could indicate a problem with the power supply,sometimes some capacitors do go bad. Check all of this and comment on this answer to see how it went.
Lamp is not the issue. It most likely is a your DM card. You most likely have some capacitors that need to be replaced. This is a terrible issue with this unit. Do a google search for "DM" and the model number and you should see hundreds of posts.
Biggest problem with DLP tv's is they get dirty (the usually have two or more fans...one in the back w/filter and one under the lamp). If air-flow is restricted the life of the lamp is in jeopardy. Verify air flow & clean filter(s). Replace lamp with exact P/N..not those that say they "are equivalent"...they are not. Also, be sure the lamp lens is very clean.
I looked up the manual online - after you replace the bulb, you need to reset the bulb life timer. Using the TV remote push the menu button, SETUP menu, select the lamp reminder option to reset the hours to zero. That might help the status indicators.
The lamp is either defective, not connected properly to the wiring or plugs (careful alignment required on the two connections), wrong type bulb, or the front panel is not replaced properly to trigger the panel sense switch (lower right side of panel)
Here's something that might also be useful. After you turn on
the set, and get the regular red blinky lights, hold down the Device
and Menu buttons together for about 5 seconds.
The Power light will start to flash in a two digit sequence.
For example, 3 flashes, then 7 flashes = 37.
Here are the error codes, and the corresponding problem:
12 = No error detected, check power supply.
32 = Lamp Cover is open.
33 = Air filter cover is open.
34 = Lamp abnormality
36 = Light Engine (DMD or Lamp Fan stopped)
37 = Exhaust or Lamp Ballast Fan stopped
38 = Lamp Temperature High
39 = DMD Temperature High
41 = Short is detected
44 = DVI cable between FMT and Engine disconnected