The belt on my durango keeps coming off while the car is running, upon further inspection, I found that the fan as well as the pulley that is attached are loose from the the engine housing. what causes this and can I fix it?
SOURCE: 99 dodge durango pcm and connectors heat up causing the vehicle..
it would be best if you took it to a dealer and left a mechanic take it home over night,that way he can have the Chrysler drb hooked up when the problem presents its self.
SOURCE: fan loose , anti-freeze dripping
there is a weap hole in the bottom of the pump if it is leaking from that it is the pump they will make noise when they go out also
SOURCE: fan belt diagram 04 dodge durango
Here is a diagram of you vehicle. Good Luck please leave a FIX YA comment if I fixed ya. http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/tec_info/2004/dodge/durango/2004_dodge_durango_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm
SOURCE: 2001 dodge durango 4.7liter 4x4 i replaced front
bank 1 sensor 2 is the left downstream sensor (1/2) is located in the exhaust downpipe just after the mini-catalytic convertor, and before the main catalytic convertor. Now the meaning of this is that your not getting any 12+/12- heating on sensor, which means voltage is supplied to heat sensor up. You have a O2 sensor heater relay, but not getting problem with 2/2 sensor tells me you need to check/inspect the wiring for 1/2 sensor, open wiring for 1/2 sensor and inspect
SOURCE: remove clutch fan dodge dakpta 4.7
This one does require a tool to loosen the fan clutch from the water pump shaft. Part of the tool holds the pulley and the other part is spanner wrench used to loosen the clutch. An important note on these fan clutches: Once you have the fan clutch off DO NOT let it lay with the rear side of the fan pointing downward as the silicone fluid that provides the "clutch" action can drain into the bearing and cause the clutch not to work. Once you have the clutch off just lean the fan and clutch against something so it is standing upright just as it is when it's bolted to the water pump until you are ready to put it back on. Hope this helps you out a bit!
Testimonial: "I tried the Advance too loaner. Spanner had no bolts to hold. I used a carpenters cat's paw to hold the edge of the pully and broke the bolt with a 12" crescent. Cleaned teh pulley up with a file so the small screatsh would not eat the serpantine belt. I did not knpw about th esilicone , thanks."
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Is this a difficult repair? Is there any specialty tools that I will need to fix it?
It's not very difficult at all. I would suggest going to the parts store first. Tell them you need a water pump, a bypass hose, and two clamps for the bypass hose. Grab some anti-freeze while your there also. Tell them you need to rent the appropiate fan clutch removal tool set for your vehicle.That will be the only specialty tool you need, everything else can be done with basic handtools. If you are at Advance or Autozone, they can print you off step by step instructions. The general overview is as follows..Loosen and unscrew fan clutch from water pump pulley using instructions supplied with the tool.Unbolt the fan shroud and remove the shroud and fan as an assembly. Now remove your serpentine beltand loosen the clamp for the lower radiator hose. Put a clean bucket under the lower hose and twist/slide the hose part of the way off of the water pump. This usually will slowly drain the coolant to keep the mess to a minimum. Next, there are several bolts and braces that hold the bracket over the bypass hose. Remove all of them along with the oil dipstick tube. Slide the bracket out and two your right, should be just enough room to get to the bypass hose. Remove the rearmost clamp. Now unbolt the water pump mounting bolts, finish removing both hoses, and pry the water pump from the engine. Clean all gasket residue from the engine, reverse procedure to install. Refill with coolant, let it warm up and bleed the air out of the cooling system. Then you're good to go. If you get stuck, give me a shout.
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