I have recently setup this amp to 2x dual 4 ohm T1 rockfords . was running great and very impressive // after turning the car off and repositioning my sub box // i put all the wires back into my amp // after turning on the car and realizing no subwoofers // i looked down and nopticed i forgot the rcas // the stereo wasnt turned up so i just plugged the rcas in // the subs didnt come on and the amp started humming // then it released smoke from beside the fuse and what sounded like air pressure // will be returning to rockford for fix if its simply not a blown fuse // any ideas ??
I Have also had this happen to me, pretty similar around the time it happened to you also, but I'm not just getting my hands dirty and inside the amp. If I fix this, I'll be sure to let you know what it was that I did, or bought and replaced......... I would also like some ideas and support on this if this has already been taken care of
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If by "whiting" you mean "whistling" then yes, you probably have a ground issue and you are picking up alternator noise. Or you might have a very noisy alternator due to failing diodes, but the most likely scenario is a grounding issue. If you unplug the signal input to the amplifier is the noise still present? If so, the grounding issue is likely with the amp itself. If not, then the grounding issue could be with the head unit or quality of RCA cables between the HU and the amp. Do you have a crossover on the Rockford amp for the subs?
I'm also curious why you are running these subs at 1ohm. Are they dual voice coil subs and each voice coil is 4 ohms? If so, why not be a bit gentler on the amp and run the sub voice coils in series, then parallel the two subs to the amp to run 4 ohms? Running at 1 ohm is likely going to generate a lot of heat from that Rockford amp which will likely decrease its service life.
Hi there, This amp should run comfortable at 2 ohms/channel. However, your dual voice coil subs are rated at 4 ohms. This means when you connect the 2 voice coils together in parellel (positive to positive and negative to negative both coils wired to one output) the amp will see 2 ohms. So if you connect both subs to one output then your amp will see 1 ohm (not good) If you run the voice coils in parellel but the subs in series then the 2 resistances (ohms) will be added together. So that way the amp will se 4 ohms. This is fine but the amp would push more power into 2 ohms. You can run one sub on each channel if you can split the head unit output to 2 outputs, problem is then you will be halving the amount of power to each channel. Personally I would probably be more inclined to run 1 sub on this amp and run another amp from the pre-outs on the first amp for the 2nd sub. Try to find another amp the same to run the second sub. Mind you, 2 of these amps will need some big power cable to run them but should shake your teeth out! Hope this helps
best way is to just run the volfenhag with a set of wires for 2 channells(one set per coil) left and right @ 4 ohms per channell. The CVRs you can parallel the coils(2 ohms) and run a set from each sub to the amp in stereo left and right. This will give the kickers a little more juice than the 12 but should be fine.
This amp is rated at 500 watts into a 4 ohm load bridged mono or 250 watts x 2 into 2 ohm load stereo. Do not go below that impedance in either case. The amp was meant to dissipate a certain amount of power, driving it to hard will lead to damage. Your speakers look like they are dual voice coils @ 4 ohms each. To get the max power while still saving your subs would be to parallel the voice coils on each woofer then run them in stereo with your amp. Stereo 2 ohm is 250 watts per speaker.
When electronic components are brand new their tolerances will allow more variation. Once you get down to a 1 ohm load, the actual impedance may vary somewhat below what the amp is capable of handling. Maxxing anything out accelerates how quickly it degrades. When new the amp can deal with putting maximum power into a minimum load, but as the components heat up and wear with age, the tolerances change.
good morning and welcome to fixya. not a bad setup you have here at all, you ned to start by checking the speaker wires inside the box to the connector inside and then the wires from connector to amp on outside. if everything looks fine there, then you need to check the amp for power out of the rca plugs to make sure the channel is not dead. if you are looking for a new amp you can try several different ones from fosgates new line up to soundstream's. im running 4 polk momo 12's on the tarantula amp and love it. they are great amps. hifonics also has a new line up pretty cool stuff, heard really good things about there stuff to. good luck and let me know so i can help you out.
if your sub will handle it, bridging it will give you more power. The best thing to do is to find out how much power the amp puts out ( RMS ) and if it is in your power handling range bridge it. It sounds better and gives you a harder punch because of more power.
That all depends upon whether or not the sub you are running has dual voice coils or just a single voice coil. The 800a4 is a four channel amp; thus the only way you can bridge it will be 3 channel or 2 channel. If you are running a dual voice coil sub then you can wire the amp two channel and get 400 watts x 2 @ 4 ohms. Make sure that you sub can handle this kind of power though.
Here are the specs:
4 x 100 @ 4 ohms (13.8V - <0.05% THD) 4 x 200 @ 2 ohms (13.8V - <0.10% THD) 2 x 400 @ 4 ohms bridged (13.8V - <0.10% THD) Fuse: External 60A Manufactured in 1999 - 2001