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Oven does not work displaying F9 on the display
GE, Whirlpool, and other brands use this same code for this same issue (door latch fault). You might be able to just clean any grease/buildup from the latching hardware, but it's probably an issue with the mechanism, control board, or wiring between the two.
The main control and door latch are not talking to each other without testing impossible to say which one on the latch assembly there are micro switches which have contacts that are open or closed depending on latch position this tells the control the position when you power up the door locks the unlocks try a latch assembly first
Hello sandy miller, thanks for your post!
From my understanding your Electrolux dishwasher is flashing "CL". Typically, that stands for close door it could be an issue with the control panel, door latch, or door strike. I would recommend having a professional technician come out to properly diagnosis your dishwasher to avoid any unnecessary part purchases. Hope this helps. -Matt
Always disconnect power before attempting any service. Most electric dryers require 240 volts to operate properly.
You may have only 120 volts to supply the dryer which will give you your symptoms. Click dryer circuit breaker off then back on to reset 240 volt system.Still no heat/run
This link will aid you in tear down / diagnostics/parts
The control (TIMER) has likely failed in this instance - BUT...
Sometimes when you disconnect power to a range and reconnect it the electronic range control gets confused. You should disconnect power again for 15 seconds and reconnect and see if that helps.
If it doesn't cure the E1- F5 error hold the bake button in until E0- F2 appears in the display. This is the error for a stuck button on the keypad and is the way to clear the memory of the electronic range control.
Sometimes these work, but if the control has failed it won't make any difference.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.@#$RED
1. Disconnect power from unit. 2. Check wires and connectors from control to door switch, then from door switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C. 3. Replace door switch. 4. Re-apply power. 5. Press and hold any key down for 1 minute to clear F5 failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.
2. If door not latched:
1. Disconnect power from unit. 2. Check wires and connectors from control to latch switch, then from latch switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C. 3. Repeat steps A and B for door switch.
3. Measure door switch (door open = switch open small low voltage terminals). Replace switch if defective. 4. Measure latch switch (unlatch = switch open, CAUTION - oven light contacts are closed). Replace switch if defective. 5. If corrections are made in any step, reconnect power to control. Press and hold any key for 1 minute to clear R failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct. 6. If failure remains, disconnect power and replace control.
This blank display is a common control board problem. If the buttons beep when pressed, then the control board is getting adequate power. If the buttons beep.. and your oven light still turns on when the oven door is open.. this a text book control board failure. We at Fixyourboard.com can solve this problem for you, and back the remanufacture with a two year warranty.
fiest press the on key see if the display comes if not the turn the power off for 5-8 seconds if that doesnt do it turn power off then pull the oven out from the wall and remove the top to acess eoc pull the mylar ribbion out of the eoc by releasing the latch which is a tiny pullout bar at the base of the connector at the eoc then you cam clean the ribbon gently with a clean pencial eraser also under the top panel will be a tech sheet with more info pay atten to resseting the oven cavity size on start up
The problem in our oven has cleared by itself. I did see the E6 F2 error message but for now, it's working fine. Considering the customer service was only able to help to the extent of reading the error code sheet the same as I was (the sheet is behind the touch pad) and seeing how limited the solutions were, we don't think we'll be buying another Whirlpool. I was pretty insulted when the girl a customer quality called to offer me part #8300453 at half cost of $164 providing I have a service guy look at the stove and call in the part. On top of that, the warrenty is 90 days and the part is on back order. Why would the part be on back order? A) they either did not make an ample supply for inventory, B) there are many ovens needing this part. For an oven to require parts after 2.5 yrs of service and 2 self cleanings tells me someone was sleeping with a cigar in their mouth in Quality Control. Or, learning what that meant.