Re: The light and digital controls on the refrigerator...
I replaced a circuit board that is in the white box at the lower left rear of the fridge. You will need to remove the cardboard cover, then there is two screws to loosen the box. The circuit board is inside. There is a white tab that sticks up push it sideways and it will pop right out. Put the plugs in the new board and pop it back in and put everything back together. Be sure the wires are routed so they do not contact the compressor.
If you want to test it first get a voltmeter one probe to CN1, the white wire, and the other to CN2, yellow wire with red stripe, there should be 120 volts. If not, or when the door is open it drops replace the board.
I did not have a voltmeter but it seems everybody that had a problem the fridge was 4 to 5 years old. So I bit the bullet, around $90.00, and replaced it and it works!
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I ran into this problem last year on the same or similar model.
if there is no cooling or fans or compressor running ,but lights are on in both compartments,and no control numbers are on the electronic control mounted to the left of the compressor is the cause of the
problem. It is expensive but rebuilts are available on Ebay .Ive
used national rebuilder parts many times,with excelent results.
Most likely the=> 5303918476 Defrost Control Board will need to be replaced. This board can be found inside the control panel inside the fresh food compartment. Unplug power and lets examine the board. Here is another source for the board 5303918476 Defrost Control BoardHere is a photo of the inside of the control panel HERE and item location 23 is that board. I am here should you have questions, Sea Breeze Soemtimes the defrost control board will show signs of failure with burn marks and heat damage but not always. It is likely this board is the problem and in some cases the start relay and run capacitor can cause these same symptons.
if you go here you can see the damper,fan assy. that's in the top of your machine in the fresh food side http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Damper/WR49X10091/1055112 this is a damper with another fan in it,when the t-stat calls for cold air the damper door opens to let the cold air in from the freezer and the fan in it blows the cold air around inside the fridge,if the freezer is fine and the fridge side is warm most likely this is your problem,part number WR49X10091 and it's around 130 dollars.unplug the machine,remove the light cover on the ceiling,remove the 1/4 inch screws and drop the light assy.remove thhe filter cover on the right side so you can remove the damper assy.pop off the cover on the piece that runs up the back center,remove the screws to the damper,read the instructions and put it back together again.should take you around 45 to 60 minutes.hope this helps and good luck.
Samsung refrigerator RS2530bwp
Cause: Power outage
- One LED light flashing on console (in the Power Freeze section)
- Not running (not cooling, but inside lights work, ice maker not working, ice crusher doesn't work, water wont dispense)
Press and hold for at least 10 seconds
Ice type button + Filter Reset button
Console should light up.
This is not documented *anywhere* on the web (until now). Best of luck
Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong.
If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.
If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...
Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...
may be the light switch or try this unplug refrigerator on screw bulb look in the socket there is a flat side in it the center get a flat screw deiver pull it up a little put back bulb plug unit if it dont light change switch