My alpine 15 inch subwoofer blew out the cone. their was to much power going to it so i turned down the power and glued the cone back into place it worked perfectly for about a month then blew out again ,anyways i was wondering how do i fix the problem the right way without it happening again. thanks rj.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Ok, for starters. Is your sub a dual 4 ohm sub? If so, great. Is your amp 2ohm stable? If so, then great. If you are running one sub, is your amp a monoblock (single channel) amp? Are you running a two channel amp Your subwoofer is a dual voice coil subwoofer. This means that you have to have power to both voicecoils or risk damaging the voice coils. Subs are designed with dual voice coils to give it more control over the cone movement. This results in better reproduction of sound. Anyway, back to wiring.
This is for a monoblock amp (you can also bridge a 2 channel amp) Go from the positive speaker out of your amp to the positive posts of both voice coils. Then go from the negative speaker out of the amp to both negative posts on the sub. And there you have it. It's called a parallel set up. Setting it up this way just dropped the ohms load for that sub to 2 ohms. Less resistance means more power to the sub. Hope this helps
Your amp is too much, or your gains and bass boost are set too high and the sub is distorting. Distortion happens when any of those three things are happening, basically your sub is no longer moving straight in and out and the cone is trying to compensate. This causes the cone to break away from the coil.
I would try alpine and/or do a web search for speaker repair or speaker rebuilding. In most cases vc replacement involves replacing the whole cone, vc, spyder, and maby the surround. Bassically all the moving parts in most speakers are glued toghther with high-temp epoxy glue.
If it's a type-x it's worth rebuilding. My guess is around $100
There are a few places out there that can hot-rod the rebuild with larger gauge vc wire and thicker lead in wire and other mods that will make sure this doesn't happen again. Do a thorough webb search. The more competant people out there do repairs and also custom build their own subs.
You don't have to buy a recone through alpine. You can, but it will be cheaper to go to the website Fixmyspeaker.com. Go to service request and full that out info. They can make a exact cone and you wish. To go through alpine you have to go to their website.
First pry off the rubber gasket. Then take a razor and cut out the cone, cut as close to the outer edge of the surround as you can. Then snip the tinsel leads connecting the cone to the spider. Then take your knife and cut out the spider. The cone and voice coil should now slide out. The rest of the speaker can be takin apart with a screwdriver and hammer.
Now hide from the owner of the speaker, he will probably want to hurt you.
Hello. I do speaker reconing and amp rebuilds for a living and the L7's often suffer from tinsel leed wire breakage which can cause "poping" and "screaching" noises in the sub in various cone positions. You need to remove the sub and push straight down on the cone repeatly and determine if you can feel or hear crunching noises to make sure the voice coil and/or spider are not damaged. A faulty leed wire can usually be identified by a dark spot or obvious breakage. All of the L5 and L7 models can be successfully repaired as long as they are the older models that have a center cap in the cone. The newer capless models will have to have an upper brace cap glued to all of the cone's fingers and will have a rather ugly appearance. Leed wire overhauls usually run around $30.00 for the older models. Voice coil and spider overhauls run around $90.00.
Think as an expert...
Probably from my experience repairing woofers etc... the cone (1) or the spider (2) isn't well glued onto the woofer skeleton(or both???)
The woofer cone must be absolutely centered or else you will get those clicks in low frequencies(you also get them in higher frequencies but you can't hear them!)
I must say that it is very difficult to repair a woofer by your own.
I suggest to return it back where you bought it and take another one (i suppose that you have a guarantee ha?).