I have the same problem as djeff757 post on Kitchenaid KDRP467
Oven control doesn't work, gas cook top does. How do I get to the thermal fuse between the control panel transformer and the control panel? is there a schematic or drawing that shows how to disassemble to get to this fuse?
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The top oven not maintaining heat why plenty of reasons depending on age could be a weak ignitor, bad temp sensor, is the oven light on if so oven stops heating after 30 seconds any oven maintaining set point temp will brown and if left long enough burn
it sounds like the heat escaping from the door damaged the electronic control board part number 8186393 and sears has it for 200 dollars.the way the door was left open was directing the heat right at the computer board and you sholud never use the stove for heating the room or things like this happen
this is probably the thermal fuse replacement fix (see my other posts for easy replacement directions)..
i'm sure kitchen aid wont recommend this but if you slip a thin piece of cardboard or non combustable insulation material between your replacement thermal fuse and the oven wall, you may not have the problem again..
p.s. i'm trying to source an auto-resetting thermal fuse for this application... if i find one, i'll post knowledge for everyone..
Replace the control panel thermal fuse (Microtemp G4A01093C). Its in the wiring harness between the control transformer and the control panel on a blue wire. It looks like a resistor inside a clear plastic tube and is mounted on a metal bracket with plastic clips. It has a spade connection on each end. It can be accessed by removing metal access panels from the back of the range and it is in the area below the gas burner deck.
I had a similar problem. There's a thermostat before the control panel. You need to remove the knobs and the front panel to get to it. You'll also need to remove a couple of trim pieces to keep from bending the panel. The part number is Whirlpool W10017820, sells for about $40.
I recently encountered this issue after trying "self clean" on my
KitchenAid oven for the first time. I wish I had read these forums and
simply avoided the feature. KitchenAid was, of course, completely unhelpful since my warranty was expired. This is the first they've heard of the problem; perhaps search engines are prohibited within the KitchenAid community and they are unable to view the complaints of thousands of other customers as I have... but I digress.
The solution was straight forward: Don't worry about the locked door for now and pull the oven away from the wall. Safety first: unplug your oven and turn off your gas valve. Now remove the back panel. There is a sheet metal strip near the top of the oven that must be removed before the back panel comes loose. With the back panel removed, look for a circular device with a blue and white sticker on it and the part number: 8300802. This is a thermal fuse that blows when the oven gets too hot (apparently "too hot" is a subjective measure as normal operation during self clean will cause this issue). You can check it with a multimeter if you have one... a failed fuse will have a high resistance. To ensure this is your only issue and to immediately unlock your door, adventurous types can bypass the fuse by connecting the two wires that connect to the fuse and hold them together with some electrical tape. WARNING: never operate your oven in this manner. This is a quick test to verify resolution of the issue; not a permanent fix. Apply power to your oven and presto, your door will unlock and your front panel will illuminate.
Now, use the aforementioned search engine KitchenAid has never heard of and search for your new fuse: 8300802. I got mine for $34... you can probably find it for cheaper but my patience was wearing thin by the time I got to ordering a replacement part.
Oh, and one last step: never ever under any circumstances use the self clean feature. Do not take the easy route like I did: get your Brillo Pad and your Easy-Off and get dirty, you lazy bum.