Question about KitchenAid KDRP467KSS Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range

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I have the same problem as djeff757 post on Kitchenaid KDRP467

Oven control doesn't work, gas cook top does. How do I get to the thermal fuse between the control panel transformer and the control panel? is there a schematic or drawing that shows how to disassemble to get to this fuse?

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  • lapwte Dec 29, 2008

    Thanks, but no, this is not the fix for this problem. It turns out that there is a control panel thermal fuse located between the control panel transformer and the control panel. This fuse was blown. No Kitchenaid service tech or parts supplier (I tried about 5) ever heard of this device. I took the part to 3 parts stores and they had never seen one. Even Kitcheaid help people couldn't help. They wanted to sell me a $150 wiring harness. They were useless. I bought the part for $0.87 on the internet. Microtemp part # G4A01093C.

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I don't recall a control panel fuse for this model, there is, however, a thermal cut-off on the rear of the unit. The part number is 8300802 and you simply have to remove the rear panel to access it.

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

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I have a double oven kitchenaid natural gas range model KGRS505X. When I cook in the upper oven nothing I cook will brown. Buiscuits get cooked but are still ehite when done. What is the problem?


The top oven not maintaining heat why plenty of reasons depending on age could be a weak ignitor, bad temp sensor, is the oven light on if so oven stops heating after 30 seconds any oven maintaining set point temp will brown and if left long enough burn

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KitchenAid Electric Range Model KESA907PSS02 surface elements and oven all stopped producing heat after initially being 'on'


You might have blown the thermal fuse. Here is a diagram of your unit.
The fuse is number 37 on the diagram. Check it for continuity. Here is the part to order in case it is bad.
Keep me posted.



Regards,
Richard Roth
http://appliancecafe.com
For all your appliance repair needs.

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it sounds like the heat escaping from the door damaged the electronic control board part number 8186393 and sears has it for 200 dollars.the way the door was left open was directing the heat right at the computer board and you sholud never use the stove for heating the room or things like this happen

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Kitchen aid oven blackout after using self clean. Waiting for repair. $100.00 service call. $ 70 part fee. From what I read on the internet this will just happen again. Anyone know of a way to solve this...


this is probably the thermal fuse replacement fix (see my other posts for easy replacement directions)..

i'm sure kitchen aid wont recommend this but if you slip a thin piece of cardboard or non combustable insulation material between your replacement thermal fuse and the oven wall, you may not have the problem again..

good luck
tpug

p.s. i'm trying to source an auto-resetting thermal fuse for this application... if i find one, i'll post knowledge for everyone..

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DOOR ON KDRP467 WO'NT OPEN


Replace the control panel thermal
fuse (Microtemp G4A01093C). Its in the wiring harness between
the control transformer and the control panel on a blue wire.
It looks like a resistor inside a clear plastic tube and is
mounted on a metal bracket with plastic clips. It has a spade
connection on each end. It can be accessed by removing
metal access panels from the back of the range and it
is in the area below the gas burner deck.

Dec 20, 2008 | KitchenAid KDRP467KSS Dual Fuel (Electric...

1 Answer

Dual fuel kitchenaid; burners work, oven does not


I had a similar problem. There's a thermostat before the control panel. You need to remove the knobs and the front panel to get to it. You'll also need to remove a couple of trim pieces to keep from bending the panel. The part number is Whirlpool W10017820, sells for about $40.

Nov 29, 2008 | KitchenAid KDRP467KSS Dual Fuel (Electric...

4 Answers

Kitchenaid KGSA906PSS00


I recently encountered this issue after trying "self clean" on my KitchenAid oven for the first time. I wish I had read these forums and simply avoided the feature. KitchenAid was, of course, completely unhelpful since my warranty was expired. This is the first they've heard of the problem; perhaps search engines are prohibited within the KitchenAid community and they are unable to view the complaints of thousands of other customers as I have... but I digress.

The solution was straight forward: Don't worry about the locked door for now and pull the oven away from the wall. Safety first: unplug your oven and turn off your gas valve. Now remove the back panel. There is a sheet metal strip near the top of the oven that must be removed before the back panel comes loose. With the back panel removed, look for a circular device with a blue and white sticker on it and the part number: 8300802. This is a thermal fuse that blows when the oven gets too hot (apparently "too hot" is a subjective measure as normal operation during self clean will cause this issue). You can check it with a multimeter if you have one... a failed fuse will have a high resistance. To ensure this is your only issue and to immediately unlock your door, adventurous types can bypass the fuse by connecting the two wires that connect to the fuse and hold them together with some electrical tape. WARNING: never operate your oven in this manner. This is a quick test to verify resolution of the issue; not a permanent fix. Apply power to your oven and presto, your door will unlock and your front panel will illuminate.

Now, use the aforementioned search engine KitchenAid has never heard of and search for your new fuse: 8300802. I got mine for $34... you can probably find it for cheaper but my patience was wearing thin by the time I got to ordering a replacement part.

Oh, and one last step: never ever under any circumstances use the self clean feature. Do not take the easy route like I did: get your Brillo Pad and your Easy-Off and get dirty, you lazy bum.

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