REX blind hem how to lock the stitch

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Rex Artek RX 518 Portable Blind Hem Stitch Hemmer Metal Sewing Machine

Good evening to you and your sewing machine.
If you have the manual there is probably a certain program for doing the hem this way in the machine.
If you are a little nervous of using the machine to do the hem you could do it by hand with what was called in my younger days " invisible stitch" or you can practice on a piece of cloth in the machine, take a look here Magic Invisible Closure and here
Hand Sewing Stitches How to Sew Hidden Stitch
If you do not have the manual handy you can always get it here Free User Manuals and Owners Guides ManualsOnline com

Perhaps this video will help:

How To Sew Blind Hem Stitch 2

Unfortunately, after reviewing your machine's manual, your manual does not indicate that your machine provides a blindhem stitch. The blindhem stitch generally is a stitch that takes several straight stitches and then zags to the left to catch the garment fabric. You can, however, use a zig-zag. You will just have more stitches into the garment that may show on the right side.

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You need a foot like this one so you can guide the folded edge of the fabric hem along against the white plastic foot. This is a generic style snap on blind hem foot, your machine should have one in the accessories that looks like this if your machine has a blind hem stitch included in its functions.

You fold the fabric into a upside down Z shape and run the top folded edge along the white guide with the fabric under the foot, hard to explain but once youve done it once, it makes sense.

You need to select the stitch on your machine that looks like 3 small zigzags, then one bigger one, or 3 straight stitches, then one zig zag to the side. This is the blind hemming stitch. You'll possibly also have a blind hemming foot to use, which helps with guiding the fabric fold into the machine and keeping it even. But if not, you should be able to buy one from your Huskqvarna dealer or a generic one from www.sewingpartsonline.com may well fit.

You'd be best served by visiting http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/machineblindsti.htm for photos and intructions if you've never done blind hem stitching before.

Blind hemming works best when hemming straight edges of fabric such as a ruffle on a full skirt - if there is any curve in the seam, it gets much harder and the result won't look so good. In essence, you press the fabric hem up, then fold the hem edge back under so you have a "S' shape, then sew along the single layer with the folded edge sitting against the foot guide. Then when the machine takes the 4th wide stitch, the needle swings to the left and catches a small stitch into the upper folded layer, then back onto the hem. The trick is adjusting the stitch so that the wide stitch doesn't show much on the right side of the garment

here is a link to great info on sewing.about.com which explains this technique with images, http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/machineblindsti.htm

In brief, you need to fold the fabric to be hemmed into a Z shape with the wrong side hem edge at the bottom of the Z.

The Blind stitch is either three straight stitches then a wide zig zag which swings to the left and catches a little bit of the folded edge, or three small zig zags, then one wide zig zag to the left to catch one stitch into the folded edge. The zig zag style has a little more stretch in it so works good on jerseys and knits.
You need to use the blind hemming foot which helps you to line up the folded edge and keep it at a constant distance from the needle. It will look like this.
Turn the little silver screw to move the white plastic guide left or right until you've got just a smidgen of fabric being stitched by the left wide stitch. Always do a practice sample first to get the stitching and guide set right. On most machines you can vary the width of the big zig by adjusting the stitch width dial a little.

You need to adjust the blind hemming foot guide so that the needle is just catching a tiny amount of your folded fabric because this is the stitch which shows on the right side of the fabric when you unfold the Z. So forget trying to hem satin or expensive fabrics this way, a hand sewn stitch will give a much better finish.

Blind hemming works best on a hem which is continuously straight on the same grain line, its not great for a curved hem. So if you've got a tiered skirt or the frill on a bed valance, it is fine as the fabric edge to be hemmed will be a continuous straight length. You can use it on a slightly curved hem for jerseys as the fabric has more give, and patterns will help to disguise the stitching too.

I hope that this helps you to sew your blind hem, 4 thumbs up if so.

Hi, I have found the most dependable thing to do is: Before removing the fabric from the machine, snip the thread between the fingers of the looper as it approaches the needle. If the loop is broken, the chain stitch will not pull out. If you cut the loop as it approaches the needle, you will get a bit longer tail so the needle doesn't come unthreaded on the next run. If you find you need a bit longer thread tail, you can pull a bit on that loop before cutting. As long as the needle has passed through the loop on the previous stitch. here i writing a site for you ,here you can get the manual.and easly fix the problem.
www.ifixmachines.com
hope this will be helpfull to you. please don't forget to vote me .
Good Luck

blind hem foot is good if you want to machine stitch a hem but not have a seam showing. it will have an adjustable piece you can move left or right with a screw. but blind hemming works best on straight grain and not on a curve like a skirt hem unless its a knit fabric that gives. to make a blind hem press the hem allowance up then turn the main garment piece back to form a Z shape. you then stitch along the hem side with your blind hem foot guidr running along the top fold and use the blind hem stitch which looks like three little zigzags then one big zig far to the left onto your folded piece taking a little 'bite' - this stitch shows on the right side when you press the top of the Z back flat. so you need to adjust the foot position and how wide the needle swings to minimise this stitch showing. hope this makes sense and helps you with your sewing.

I know this is a VERY late answer, but I hope it can help others. The direct wholesale importer for the REX RX518 blindstitch hemmer (and the same company who is possibly involved in its manufacture) is Artek Sewing Machine Supply in Brooklyn, NY (800-221-9440).

Artek seems to be the only company with whom to speak about this machine. They sell and "service" the RX518 (which may mean throwing them away and giving out another if they feel like it)! It is a company that does business as both "REX" and "Artek." This is not as good as dealing with Viking, Bernina, etc. for sure, but at least it's something!!

When you tighten the belt it is a problem if it isn't adjusted right. You need to loosen the belt again. When you are pushing on the foot control the motor will begin to run. At the same time you can adjust the belt by carefully moving the motor. You will notice the motor speed will change as you do this. Stop adjusting the motor belt when you hear the motor speed at it's highest speed. Tighten down. Now, give it a try.

If you want to do blind hemming you need to find the stitch on your machine that looks like 3 small zigzags, then one bigger one, or 3 straight stitches, then one zig zag to the side. This is the blind hemming stitch. You'll possibly also have a blind hemming foot to use, which helps with guiding the fabric fold into the machine and keeping it even.

As the previous poster said, blind hemming is a little difficult to explain. You'd be best served by visiting http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/machineblindsti.htm for photos and intructions, getting a copy of a manual for your machine (if it doesn't have this stitch, then you're going to need to find another way) or getting a ibrary book out.

Blind hemming works best when hemming straight edges of fabric such as a ruffle on a full skirt - if there is any curve in the seam, it gets much harder and the result won't look so good. In essence, you press the fabric hem up, then fold the hem edge back under so you have a "S' shape, then sew along the single layer with the folded edge sitting against the foot guide. Then when the machine takes the 4th wide stitch, the needle swings to the left and catches a small stitch into the upper folded layer, then back onto the hem. The trick is adjusting the stitch so that the wide stitch doesn't show much on the right side of the garment.