Question about Weber Genesis Silver B Grill

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I can smell the gas coming through. The igniter, ignites a small flame at the right end, but that is all. The flame does not light the burners. I did look at the burners, they look fine. Could there be a problem in the igniter itself? Thank You... Nancy

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  • nhunsicker1 Dec 31, 2008

    Thank You So Much !!! That Does sound like the solution. I have not been able to get one yet, but hopefully within the next few days. I hope it works. Thanks Again......... Nancy

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  • 334 Answers

It's either the flame sensor or the gas valve.

The sensor senses flame and sends signal to the valve, the valve then sends gas through the burner/s.

If it's a thermocouple (looks like thisbefore installed) http://furnaceparts.com/eshop/products/thermocouple.jpg
then replace the thermocouple.
It sits right in the flame pattern and they usually cost less than ten bucks.

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

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1 Answer

Gas smell when igniting burner.


Hi Jerry

Warning : Gas systems are generally safe but any gas smell should always be investigated by a certified technician as you can never be too safe.

That being said, let me try to assist you as best I can from my experience with gas appliances.

If the smell has been there since you bought the unit, it is probably the pilot you are smelling. Generally, a pilot light is first ignited using either an electro-mechanical switch or using electricity to create a spark.

While ignition is taking place, a small amount of gas is allowed to flow through the ignition pilot nozzle. The spark is meant to ignite the pilot flame. When the pilot flame is lit, a thermocouple is heated up and then allows gas to flow to the main burners. The gas in the main burners then ignites directly from the pilot flame. This is generally how gas burners work but there are many types of equipment and not all of them work on the same principles.

Generally when you smell gas before igniting the main burner but detect no smell after the main burner is on, it has to do with problems in the ignition stage. This could be caused by a number of things but often the ignition probe is the problem. The ignition probe arcs a spark between two probes or between a probe and the burner which is meant to ignite the pilot gas nozzle (or in some cases ignites the main burner directly). Everytime this spark is made, a small amount of carbon forms at the connection point of the sparks. The carbon can build up over time and cause difficulty sparking the ignition of the pilot burner. Spilled food can also cause this or speed up the buildup of carbon.

If the gas can't ignite the pilot immediately, the pilot keeps allowing gas to pass into the air until ignited which is what you could be smelling. Check to see how long after you try to start the burner does it actually ignite. More than a couple of seconds and you will be smelling the gas that escaped without being burned off.

You can try disconnecting the unit from mains power and cleaning the ignition probes on each burner. If the unit has a mechanical starter you should take extra care not activate it during cleaning as you could get a electric shock. Clean the probe with a damp cloth or paper towel and don't use any cleaning agents.

If this does not eliminate the smell you are getting before ignition, you should get a technician to test the unit. The explanation above is also very general as I don't know what specific system you are using so use the explanation given as general knowledge only and get a technician to perform the repairs.

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Bill, two things possibly going on here that are common with an aging grill. First you need to turn off the fuel tank and set it aside. you mention that a clicking can be heard when pushing the igniter button which usually indicates good battery but if you have never changed it you may want to just as a good measure. Unscrew the bottom and you should find AA or AAA battery behind it. Now with battery good and the igniter generating a fast load clicking sound you want to get down and follow the wire that runs from the the back side of the igniter push button down inside and usually under the burner tubes ending out at one end of each burner. What happens when you press the igniter switch is, an electrical current is sent down the wire and when it reaches the end the current jumps to the closest metal it can find creating a spark.so you need to insure that the end of the wire is close to where the flame is generated but not so close that that you cant see a spark. Make sure the end of the wire is bare and clean as is the area on the burner where it arcs Now do this to all for burners. Turn all the knobs on the grill off and connect the tank. Make sure the lid is open now, and slowly open the valve on the tank. I say slowly like a ten count from close to full open. what can happen if you crank the tank valve open too quickly or with the grills valves open a vapor-lock effect can be created greatly reducing the flow of fuel from the tank. Iv'e seen many of the uninformed return 1/2 full tanks due to this problem. If you notice week flame or no flame but smell gas ALWAYS SHUT OFF VALVE ON TANK IMMEDIATELY KEEP LID OPEN AND LET THE AREA VENT BEFORE TRYING AGAIN lest you be the one being barbecued. Good Luck

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1 Answer

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Hello,
Your right side burners probably have small vertical lighting holes that are clogged where the pilot lights the burner. Use a sewing needle to poke each hole clean. While you're at it, poke clean the horizontal burner holes just to make sure they are not clogged either. Are there also little tunnels from the burners to each pilot flame? Make sure those are clean inside and attached properly on each end. The pilot flame should be approx 3/8" tall. Compare the working pilot flame to the non-working pilot flames and adjust as necessary. Each pilot has a small aluminum tubing running to it, the adjustment screw will be on this tube. You'll just need a small flat head screw driver to turn it counter-clockwise to increase flame. Hope this helps. Let us know if we can be of further assistance. Douglas

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1 Answer

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Check for 24 volts across the gas valve when Ignitor is glowing. If no, bad board. If yes, bad gas valve or blockage.
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1 Answer

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1 Answer

Oven has small explosion igniting and going off. says tj


A few years back I helped a neighbor with this same problem in a forced air, gas fired, "horizontal" furnace in his attic.

After having him cycle the thermostat a couple dozen times while I watched through the opening in the side of the furnace, I finally figured out what was happening.

First, there were about 6 cast iron burners [about 14 inches long with two rows of gas holes along the length]. These burners were parallel to each other and oriented perpendicular to the long axis of the furnace.

The gas was fed to the ends of the burners with a pipe manifold. The standing pilot light was at the center between burners 3 and 4. Due to the spacing distance between the burners, the pilot light was too far from even burners 3 and 4, the flame could not "jump" to ignite them, or any of the other burners. The manufacturer had installed a thin sheet metal "tent" which ran from the gas entrance end of burner 1 to burner 6, and was about 2 inches above the burner, AND the pilot light.

The standing pilot was on all the time. When the gas control valve turned on, gas began to come out of all the burners at the same time. Naturally it came out of the gas supply manifold ends of all the burners.

The "tent" captured that gas coming from the burners and "filled" up to over the pilot light which ignited the gas at that point, and the flame would propagate along the tent to ignite the gas coming out of all of the burners.

In my neighbors case, the tent had somehow become dislodged so that it did not cover all of the burner ends. For those burners which it did cover [including the pilot light] it caused the burners to light properly.

For those burners who's ends were not covered, and who's gas could not be captured, they would NOT ignite simultaneously with the others.

As these burners WERE feeding gas into the combustion chamber, the gas "envelope" would spread until it reached the nearest flame ignition source, at which time the entire "bubble" of gas would ignite with a minor boom [actually a low energy explosion]. Flame would momentarily shoot out of the burner chamber opening, and from that point the furnace would operate normally until the next restart cycle.

Although there could be several causes, I suspect that the symptoms you describe are the result of DELAYED IGNITION of some or all of the main burners.

IF this is the problem, then the solution is to clean all the burners [including the burner outlet holes in the ignition ends of the burners], clean out the burner compartment, AND properly adjust the orientation of whatever system [you have to evaluate how it works from analysis of YOUR furnace] your furnace has to ensure all burners ignite as close to the same time as possible.

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Unless you are an experienced handyman, and understand this analysis and instructions, I strongly suggest that you engage the services of a professional furnace technician.

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1 Answer

The gas is coming through, but does not light.


I have the same grill,and sometimes the same problem.First,with the gas off or completely disconnected,remove the grill grates and the flavor bars from the grill.Now you can see the heating element.A small wire brush will do the trick.Gently clean all the little holes in the element where the gas comes out.Then,with compressed air or even canned air(like what you use to clean a computer with)blow out the holes you just cleaned.Reassemble the grill and light.Should work fine after that.

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2 Answers

Igniter


It is normal for all 4 burners to spark at same time.  Often burners won't light even when you can see the spark at them because the burner is dirty.  Take a pin and clean out all the holes in rim of burner.  Also look for small cracks in white part of igniter.  If cracked it must be replaced.

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