Engine cut out while driving, won't start.

no posts on this old post. but no year, so .... as an example
to others posting, NO year?, NO answers.
but... here you go.
NOISE MOVING, ONLY !: (dangerous tests)
NO noise , in neutral, guning throttle like mad man.
or doing same in drive, all brakes set, wheels chocked,
DO the FSM A/T trannny Stall test. 5seconds max !, at 0MPH this puts full load on most the parts, MAKE NOISE NOW?
moving.....
cutting the engine , depends? in neutral? or coasting in gear.
risk 2, accidentally hitting park doing the test.
risk1:
selecting neutral and cutting the key (danger if the steering locks ) do so only off road, and no people about, no turns., no cliffs, no trees, no rocks. (flat desert or parking lot, at early hours..etc.)
Safety first.....
"and it goes off."<<< meaning the noise stops? key off?
btw:
the wheel bearing are under full load, now.
in turns the wheel bearing are under more load (huge in fact)
and the CVs run all the time.
but, if goes off means. no sound , it can be. (sure not wheel bearings)
1: exhaust parts, rattling. (running)
2: engine noise. (lots of possible) , but see test above.
3: A/T trans noise (its A/T right?) bad front, A/T pump? or TC?
or 150 other vastly complex A/T parts. bad.
when coasting , the CV do turn all the rear planetary gears ( and axle gears)
so they are not bad, as the quiet sound ending , proves.

keep in mind most parts, under torque love to make noise.
so cutting the engine, cuts most that torque, and hides the bad parts, with silence.

i use and remote electronic ear to find moving noise.
electronic stethoscope.
it has small microphones that clamp to suspected parts.
this removes most the danger in testing.

good luck finding it, if it still makes noise.

Sorry to say but if you have to put in a quart of oil a day then you have a major problem. Sounds like you have ruined the engine. It could be seizing up.

The battery light would come on because the engine has stopped running and the alternator is not charging the battery. The steering would get difficult to turn because the engine would not be turning the power steering pump. So those things would be expected.
It sounds like you have a relay that is failing, or you are loosing power from the key switch.

I'm going to say something happened to the cable between the shifter and the transmission. There is a switch on the transmission that prevents you from starting the engine in anything other than park or neutral. The transmission is probably in reverse or drive which would allow it to roll.
Someone would need to check the lever on the trans where the shift cable is attached.

It can be either voltage regulator, alternator or the battery is not holding a charge. Start with the regulator first it is the cheapest. most parts houses will test your electrical system for free.

When was the last time you had the transmission filter and fluid changed? Sounds like the filter is clogged.

That sounds like the fuel pump may have lost it's prime. Does it have fuel injection, or a carburetor on the engine? How much gas was in the tank while it was parked on an incline? Have you tried any starting fluid sprayed into the air intake hose, toward the engine? Warning! Don't use much starting fluid! Perhaps a one or two second burst, and have someone crank it immediately after you have stepped back at least 6 feet from the engine. If it fires, then it is definitely a fuel delivery problem! But it won't run long like that unless the fuel pump starts working again ... which is most likely when the engine is cold!

if your engine seized it wouldnt start again you must have either a sensor that is so clogged that chokes up the motor ,like a air idle control valev,o2 sensor,catalytic converter.could be either one of these...

nothing wrong safty factor stop coasting

i had this same prob also it did it when turning on the A/C i changed the control moudel under the coil packs and bow like new no more shuting off !!!!!!!!!!!!!