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How do I wire this table lamp?

The picture shows the wiring detail, but I cannot determine how to connect the wires properly.
The switch is a single pole, two circuit, 4 position. OFF, #1 bulb on, #2 bulb on, and both bulbs on.

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  • SATworks Dec 29, 2008


    Table Lamp with Base Switch

  • SATworks Dec 30, 2008

    frcs68-

    That worked fine. I put the meter on the switch to check the continuity in each of the four positions, and they were all on all the time, so the switch was bad. Ran down to the hardware store (we have a local REAL hardware store!), picked up a new switch, followed your instructions, and it work perfectly. Thanks, and have a Happy New Year!

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  • Master
  • 1,605 Answers

First check out the sw. use a volt meter measure between all of the lines. i.e black & red, black & green tec.... and tun the switch to each position.
note the output on the meter, when you turn the sw. that will tell you which 2 lines are switched and the which is fixed.
1). connected the hot "line in", to one line from each of the buld.
2). take the left over line from buld #1, connect it to one of the switching line on the sw.
3). take the left over line from buld #2, connect it to the other wsitching line.
4). connect the left over "line-in" to the fixed line on the switch.

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

  • Frank
    Frank Dec 30, 2008

    glad to help

    have a happy new year!

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I have a 1755 3 rocker switch, http://communities.leviton.com/docs/DOC-1920, that I'm trying to install in place of an older switch. Here are the pictures for both, the new switch and old one:...


Ledio, I am unable to access specific photos on Picassa
https://plus.google.com/106982528064073343888/posts

I have downloaded instruction manual for 1755 rocker switch
This is ordinary triple-rocker-switch to control 3 different loads.
It is like having 3 single pole switches and each switch controls a separate light (Load)
This is single pole switch for 120Volt, and not suited necessarily for 240Volt loads.
Switch is not for 3-way application as typically found in hallway where 2 switches control same light.

1) You have 4 wires.
Electricians don't guess, they test.
There are 4 types of wires in 120Volt and 240V household wiring: Hot wire, Neutral wire, Load wire, and ground wire.
Load wire means the wire that connects to switch and goes to Light, fan, motor (load)
Hot wire always connects to one side of switch.
Neutral never connects to switch.
Load wires connect to side of switch opposite Hot wire.
Bare copper ground wire connects to any green ground screw.

2) One-and-only-one wire in each 120Volt electrical box is Hot. (assuming you are not replacing
3-way switch or working with 240V)

3) Separate all 4 wires for testing. Tape tester leads to wood sticks. Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire. Tester will light up on Hot wire.

4) Hot is identified. Next, find the neutral wire if it is among the 4 wires.
Test Hot wire to all other wires in box, except bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on neutral wire.
Tester will not light up on Load wires.

5) NOT EVERY switch box has a neutral. Or the neutral wires can be twisted together and covered with wire nut and pushed to back of box.
The neutral may be up in the light fixture. Neutral located in ceiling box is typical with bathroom fan-light-heater combos.
If neutral is not one of the 4 wires, then don't worry about the neutral connection because it will already be wired together.

6) Image of 1755 switch shows 1 screw terminal on the Hot side, so connect Hot wire to this single screw.
Other side of switch has 3 screws for connecting each of 3 Load wires.
Note: Neutral wire is NEVER connected to a switch.
http://www.frostelectric.com/WOE-IMAGES/00381764.jpg

7) Since I cannot see wiring project or know what loads or how the testing comes out, I suggest connect the Hot wire to single screw terminal.
And then connect 1 of the other wires to other side of switch. Not a neutral.
Turn power ON, and try switch.
Process of elimination might yield result.

8) Add a comment with more question, and it sends e-mail. I will respond.
More resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-Cooper-277-pilot-light-switch.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/How-to-wire-double-rocker-s.jpg

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Wiring is not fully described: Location of hot wire and neutral wire from breaker box are unknown.
If Hot wire arrives in ceiling box first, the switch box will not have white neutral wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Neutrals will be in ceiling box.

What is known: You are replacing single pole switch attached to one 14-2 wire going to light.
You are replacing light with a fan-light and replacing switch with a 3-pole TM8111 switch.
You have replaced 14-2 wire with 12-3 wire.

TM8111 wiring shows following link:
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Fan pull-chain wiring shows following link:
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Assume neutrals in ceiling box.
Assume Hot wire in ceiling box: Connect 12-3 black wire to black Hot wire. Connect 12-3 white wire to black wire on light. Connect 12-3 red to red wire on fan.
White neutral from fan and white neutral form light connect to other white neutral wires and covered with wire nut.
Wiring at switch:
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Switches are not identified.
Single-pole switches are wired differently than 3-way.
Wire colors are not identified. Some boxes have red and black wires that carry power.
Add a comment and fill out details after studying image and reading information.
I am not there, so you can also add a comment and include in-focus photo of your switches that you posted on Flickr.

Following image shows single-pole switches, with typical black and white wires.
No bare copper ground wire is shown. Ground wires connect to green screw.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Single-pole-switches-in-4-g.jpg

So your new switch has 2 brass screws. No white wire connects to single-pole switch. One screw will have 1 black wire that goes to light fixture. The other screw will have 1 or 2 black wires that jumper or connect to the other switches as shown in image.

White wires are usually twisted together and covered with wire nut and pushed to back of box.

Upvote the help.
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Describe your how to install a ipp15-1l Problem


1) First of all you need to determine what device you are replacing. Single-pole or 3-way.
Add a comment any time

Remember you can also take advantage of fixya phone service, where expert speaks to you over the phone while you are installing device. This service is not free.

2) If you are replacing single-pole switch, that is where one switch controls the Load (light fan motor)
Here are instructions for installing ipp15-11 Motion switch for single-pole replacement.
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First of all, you don't mention what type of switch was replaced.

1) Leviton 6230 countdown timer is made to replace single-pole light switch only.
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I hesitate to answer question because the color of the screws is not identified. The holes are not identified which color screw they are next to. You can fill in these blanks when answering if the following information is not complete.

First of all, the green screw goes to bare ground wire and isn't discussed further

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From one side of the lamp cord, to one side of the switch.

From other side of switch to both blacks from the upper and lower bulbs.

From other side of lamp cord, to the white coming from both bulbs.

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