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First, try to light the burner in question with a match. Just hold a match to the burner, then turn the gas on to low. If the burner doesn`t light, the problem is the gas supply to the burner. Next, lift the top cover and put the prop rod in the hole in the cover to support it. Hold a match to the left-front burner. Now, turn the control knob to "light". You should see the igniter spark and hear a snap. If this doesn`t happen, repeat this step with the left rear burner. If you hear the spark and snap. If the igniter doesn`t work on the front left burner, but does on the rear left burner, the igniter does work. The problem is likely the control knob for the left front burner. The. Control knob includes the electrical switch the activates the igniter when you turn on that burner.
There should be 2 release "tabs" between the top surface piece and the main range... e.g. the "slot" in the front of the range.
You'll need to lift slightly on the top surface while pressing these tabs with a thin utensil - like a butter knife or paint scrapper. Be careful to not scratch the paint.
The tabs are located on the front left and right.
In some cases, you can slightly lift the top panel to get a better view of the tabs with a flashlight.
Then, the top should lift up, similar to the hood of a car.
Once inside, it's pretty easy to work on the connections, burners, etc.
dont forget about thermal fuse on back of dryer white plastic with two wires can jump out for testing see if you get heat if so replace thermal fuse and clean venting adn venting flapper for opening and closing .... if no heat tthen open lint screen on top of dryer remove two phillips screws pull lid forward from back corners towards u and lift lid up remove front screws should be two 5/16 screws on in each corner and door switch harness connected lift front upwards and to the right remove drum belt tensioner bottom right side .. release belt remove drum set out of the way ... plug in dryer watch ignitor in burner tube bottom left corner should glow redish orange then a click and then a flame
no glow aslong as thermal fuse has been checked bad ignitor....
if glows and no click replace flame switch black and silver box on left side of burner tube
if glows and clicks and no flame replace two black round coils on top of gas valve
BTU ratings are usually the Model Number plate which is located in one of three places for Maytag: 1-Underneath burner top if top lifts up easily 2-On left lower front edge of frame with door open 3-Left edge of front oven frame with drawer open
check the burner socket, it is likely that contact is being lost where the burner connects to the hardwired portion of the system (the socket). It is not unusual for the socket to "burn up" when there is a poor connection to the burner resulting in the burner being replaced and the new burner not working or working intermittently.
If you have the glass cooktop slide-in model, the problem is most likely the burner "ribbon' under the glass top for the small burner has come loose. I fixed mine with only a phillips-head screwdriver, needle-nosed pliers, and a 1/4" wrench (1/4" socket on the end of a nutdriver works better). Here are the steps I took to fix it: 1) Slide the oven out from the counter so the sides of the oven are clear of the counter top. 2) Remove the phillips head screws-1 on each side of the oven near the top/rear. These will be the only phillips-head screws you will need to remove. 3) Open the oven door and remove the 4 hex-head screws at the top/front/inside the oven- there are 2 on each side which follow the opening of the door. Then close the door. 4) Pull off the burner knobs by gripping them and pulling straight up. Don't worry, you will not break them but you will need to give them a good tug. 5) Remove the burner retaining nuts that are under the knobs-you may need a wrench to loosen them but only tighten them by hand when reinstalling. 6) Pull the face of the control panel away from the oven slowly until you see a ribbon connector on the right side and then disconnect the ribbon and remove the face plate from the oven. 7) Remove the 4 hex-head screws from the face plate bracket (the plastic part that was holding the face plate) and pull the bracket toward the front of the oven until it flops over and rests on the oven door handle. 8) remove the 2 black screws holding down the glass top-one on each side of the oven-the screw heads face the front of the oven. 9) Disconnect the two wiring harnesses attached to the cook top. Don't worry, they only fit one way so you don't need to label them. 10) Lift the cook top until the wiring harnesses are clear of the holes and place it upside down on a flat surrface. 11) Remove the two retaining bracket screws and brackets from each side of the non-working burner. 12) Slowly lift the burner and flip it upwards until you see the ribbon coils. It should not be necessary to disconnect any wires. 13) Look at the ribbon coils very carefully to see if any of them are disconnected from their main connection points. If so, feed the ribbon back inside the pinch point (you may need a small screwdriver to open the pinch point first) and then use a pair of needle-nosed pliers to pinch the ribbon to hold it in place. I had to use a voltage meter set in the OHM position to find where mine were disconnected. Once you pinch the ribbon end back into place, put everything back together in reverse order. If your burner still does not work, your burner knob switch may be bad. I hope this helps. Good Luck!
Remove the brass burner tubes on each burner., they are holding down the range top.
The top is slid in a hindge in the rearand clipped down in the front, pull and lift at the same time( take some force) from the front, this will release the top.