My house is all electric, and I have a Ruud heat pump that often has a loud, continuous clicking. The auxiliary light flashes on and off in time with the clicking, and every light in the house also dims. It's like what usually happens when the heat first kicks on, but it just keeps doing it over and over. This sounds like it could really be draining energy (my electric bill is enormous in the winter; reasonable in the summer even though I live in a warm climate and run the AC continuously). The emergency light does NOT come on. I have had the HVAC company here several times to check it out but of course the problem wouldn't happen in the 15 minutes they were there. They checked everything, found no problems, and charged me for a service call. I just know it isn't normal, though. Can anyone help me shed some light on this frustrating problem?
I had the same experience. I finally found someone who knew what was wrong. There is a relay switch that is attached to the defrost board. Apparently this is a common problen with RUUD. I had the board replaced and it took care of the problem. It was about $80 for the board and $80 for the service call. Hope this helps.
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I'm seeing a master switch on the control board, try a reset there. But, sounds like a bad element. You need to test continuity through your heater components. When testing a component unhook wires first, as they will still have continuity even if bad with wires attached.
You will need to have a HVAC tech to check your Heat Pump..... It is not working or not heating properly....And you are heating the house with the electric heat strips which will make your electric bill double The electric heat strips are there as back up if the heat pump is not working or keeping up with the heating demand.
There is a limit switch that is likely opening. Be sure your filters are clean and all registers and grilles are open and not obstructed. If the problem continues, you may have a dirty indoor coil or undersized duct work. Some models have a window where you can observe the LED lights. If when the furnace shuts down you see any blinking, you need to count the flashes and we can figure out what the problem is from there.
Most heat pump systems utilize electric strip heaters as back-up and emergency heat. This will allow the system to continue to produce heat in the event of heat pump failure. If you are having problems getting your heat pump to turn on, you might have a blown line voltage fuse, a tripped circuit breaker, or a high pressure switch tripped. The high pressure switch on a Rheem or Ruud unit is a red button located near the service valves at the outdoor unit. Try pushing the button to reset. Check your indoor air filter and replace as necessary.
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A basic model heat pump with an air handler with electric strip heat generally will continue to run with a call for heat regardless of the outdoor air temperature unless there was an outdoor thermostat (an accessory) installed. There is still heat in the outdoor even at temperatures of zero and below. Generally, there is a balance point of approx 30-35degF that allows the heat pump to heat your house to 68degF without the need for the electric heaters. Below that, the heat pump can still extract heat from outside and "pump" it into your house; however, it will need help from the electric heaters. In temperatures below the balance point, the heat pump will run non-stop. As the temperature in the house falls approx 1 - 2 degF below the setpoint, the electric heaters will energize. So it is not uncommon for the system to run non-stop with the temperature falling a few degrees below setpoint. The colder the outside temperature, the more often the strip heaters will cycle on/off. If your system is well-maintained and operating at proper performance, it is still cheaper to run your heat pump than it is to run on straight electric heat. If you live in a climate where below zero temperatures are normal during the winter months, you might want to research heat pump options that offer higher COP's and increased performance in colder temperature than the basic contractor's model. Start with initiating communication with a local contractor. You will need to consider initial cost and the pay-back period based on your local energy costs and your specific demands you want your system to meet.
yes I would switch it over due to the fact that the balance point reached. Since I'm not there to look at the system monitor the actual temperature inside and if you cannot maintain the setpoint on the thermostat you may have to bring it back on. I've seen recently that there was not enough backup heat to keep the house warm enough during cold spells. Stay warm.
Sounds like the compressor starting relay or capacitor is defective. When the compressor could not start, the electric heat came on to satisfy the heat requirement and causing the emergency heat light to come on at the thermostat. This light warns you that electric heaters are energized. And they use a LOT of electricity! Call a different company for service. And do it soon.
does the furnace ignite?? your system may not have been lighting and has gone into ignition lockout count the codes of the led lights then remove panel led diagnostic codes are listed there.
if led codes indicate no problem verify capacitor is good and that mtr is getting 115 volts.