Jumper cables put on backwards... now nothing registers on dash when key is turned. Just before I had jump started the car (which needs a new alternator) but it stalled before I could drive off. In my haste I put the cables on wrong. got in running car to step on gas and saw puff of smoke from dead car's jumper cable clamp. Disconnected battery and connected + and - and turned key to discharge then re-connected battery. There is enouogh battery powere to open/close doors and set alarm, but again, even whil charging with new battery cables, nothing happens when I turn the key. I suspect I fried the ECU or its fuse but don't know where they are or how to test
I think you answered your own question
You have a 12 year old car & the cost to
have that problem diagnosed, is not going
to be pleasant.
Only a very experienced repair shop or a dealer,
will be able to determine what was damaged
I would set a price to car value, on what you would
spend before parting with it.
You can't spend $1,500 unless you want to, for
a vehicle repair with whatever it's current value is
SOURCE: toyota echo 2001 Mnl
What does it do when you try to start it? how many miles does it have on it?
The starter can be drawing so much current that the vehicle battery cannot start it by itself I recommend a starting system draw test be done, most qualified shops can do this test for very little or even free. You can have a corroded cable or a bad Ground Connection that is robbing your starting amperage Even though you have voltage you need AMPS to start the car
If this information is helpful please give me a fixya! rating I owned an auto diagnostics facility here in Seattle for 14 years I believe you will find my recommendation correct. Thankd You, Randy
SOURCE: woodpecker-like noise when I try to start the car...
the noise is from the solenoid but the battery is very weak or the connections are dirty or loose clean and tighten connections charge battery if this dosent work you will need a new battery
SOURCE: toyota echo 2001 Mnl
Ok, before I give you a suggestion, I want to let you know that I'm not an expert on cars or anyhting, but I have been focred to fix A LOT of problems with my vehicles over the years to save money, and this is a situation I ran into twice. Once on a 1994 Buick Skylark Coupe, and another time on a 1992 Chevy Corsica. What I learned is that if you hook jumper cables up to your car and it starts, there is USUALLY one of two things wrong with it. Either you have a dead battery (which you don't because it's new), or you have a bad alternator. Because the car stays running after it's jumped, everything points to a bad battery or battery connection. Have you tried replacing the connectors on your battery cables? I know it sounds like a shot in the dark, but I've tried that before out of desperation and it has worked. I'm pretty sure your alternator is ok, or your car would die when the red positive jumper cable was removed, so I'd replace the connectors on the battery calbes in your car, especially if you have never replaced them before. If that doesn't work, if it was me, I'd take it in and have it looked at. Like I said, I'm not an expert by far, so I can only trouble-shoot to a point. Hope this helps, or at least gives you something to try.
SOURCE: i cannot find the ecm / ecu on my 2002 toyota corolla. where is it?
You can do more damage trying to fix it youself if you don't know what is really wrong. I suggest you bring it to a mechanic to check out the damage. It also could be a simple thing like replacing the fuseble Links.
First check that the battery is connected properly - to body ground and + to engine. Make sure battery is fully charged before installing. Good luck
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The "Fusible link" was fried as well as the "Fuel-injector" fuse... replacing both and the car works like ta was brand new. BTW Peter -- Thanks for your 'Optimism' but this is the FIRST repair I have had in more than 150,000 miles other than brakes and pads once, spark plugs, and several sets of wiper blades.
"Repair will be less than $200"
So you made out okey or lucky. Did you have it fixed before you asked the question or you already had it in a shop & were questioning what you were told?
I called the indy BMW mechanic that would have worked on it... and he immediately told me about the metal strip taking the brunt of my cable stupidity... it was fried along with the fuel injector fuse. To be certain, I replaced the fuse and FI Relay before he told me about the metal strip.Good to know folks you can trust for recomendations who otherwise could take you for a lot more $$$$ --Especially when we are trying to move from FL to CT to care for my 83-yr old Mom as Dad passed in Dec. This repair was crappy timing, but I'm grateful for the knowledge of my BMW friend...
It was dead in the water when I first posted... replaced the FI fuse and relay and when it did not work... caled my friend at 5:45p.m. EDT Friday to get the FLink. Makes me wonder how many folks are 'taken' by such a simple repair... like the time the Lexus Dealership told us the one key we had was not a 'Master' and they would have to charge us $300 for a new key and $1200 for a new computer plus three days labor... when I went online... bought the key for $120 and they included instructions how to 'code' it. BTW the original key the dealer looked at WAS a Master key -- so they have forever lost our business.
Hey were on line did you find instructions on codeing spare key? A young girl has lost her master key and the spare will crank the engine but the immobilser wont let the engine start..
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