Question about Jenn-Air JCD2295HES Side by Side Refrigerator

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JennAir SxS JCD2289AES follow up Unit stopped cooling in September. Evaporator iced up. Replaced Adaptive Control Board. Problem solved-for one night only. Next morning only lights work. Have studied the problem for a couple months-hey I'm a busy woman! Decided to replace start relay and overload. (Thanks for the advice on removing the cover from these parts, Thorn6) New parts in, no compressor action at all. Not handy with multimeter, so no numbers to share. Any thoughts? Time for a new frig? Does it matter if the connections to the start and overload were made to the right connections, but perhaps, upside-down and/or backwards? Just want to cover all the bases. Thanks

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If the unit was freezing up, then the start relay and overload did not need to be replaced.

Chances are, the defrost heater(s) are burned out on the evaporator. Confirm your Make and Model number to me and I will get more info to you.

Posted on Jan 14, 2009

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I have a Hotpoint HSS25GFPEWW side by side.....initially the ice maker stopped crushing and dispensing ice....then the freezer started to warm. I cleaned the condenser coils and confirmed the condenser...


dead if the compressor is running and theres no cooling or frost on the evaporator you have leaked out all your freon only way to fix is call a pro about 600$ to fix

Aug 15, 2012 | Hotpoint HSS25GFP Side by Side...

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HOW DO YOU PUT REFRIG IN DEFROST MODE WHEN IT HAS ELECTRONIC DEFROST CONTROLLER


You didnt give the make of the ref.; But your solution is here for most all

The newest defrost feature in modern fridges is the electronic adaptive defrost control board. *Maytag has one version, see picture...to put this adaptive defrost style of fridge into defrost, short with a small screwdriver between L1 and test on the adaptive defrost board, wait 3 seconds and you should hear a "click" noise from the relay and the fridge will shut off and go through a defrost cycle. A close up common way *this* version of the Maytag/JennAir control is wired.
Amana also has a version of adaptive defrost, see info sheet for some help on the Amana version. Press refrigerator light switch five times in six seconds to initiate defrost cycle. Pressing five more times within six seconds will cancel defrost and go straight into the run mode. Similar operation on both bottom mount and SxS refrigerators. After the defrost terminator/thermostat opens, six minutes of dwell time occurs before the compressor and condenser fan motor will operate. After defrost terminator/thermostat open, 10 minutes of dwell time occurs before the evaporator fan motor will operate.
Frigidaire has also jumped into the market with an adaptive defrost board. The fresh food section light switch and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.
Frigidaire - referance model FSC23F7DSB3
This product comes equipped with an Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC). To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A ?¿½d?¿½ in the freezer temperature window and ?¿½F?¿½ in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. ?¿½d?¿½ and ?¿½F?¿½ will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)
For some Whirlpool refrigerators - some Kenmore refrigerators are made by Whirlpool ( 106.######## )
The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
?¿½ If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
?¿½ If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

Maytag S-S Refrigerator MSD2756GEW forcing defrost cycle
I replaced my defrost heater two weeks ago, but the frost built back up on the evaporator coils. Replaced the adaptive defrost board with new ( Maytag p/n 6100598 8 ) board. Want to force a defrost cycle to see the heater work, so I shorted the L1 pin to adjacent pin (now called DOOR instead of TEST) for three seconds and nothing happens. Compressor keeps running, fans still going etc. Tried pressing the door switches 5 times in 6 seconds and that doesn't work either. Any hints on how to get the defrost cycle to initiate?
Hi,
This might help, a copy:
The issue is that some 12002104 ADC boards have been shipped in the 61005988 ADC board box. Do not reorder the board, the 12002104 board will function the same in place of the 61005988, but you must use the forced defrost method for the 12002104. Jumping "L-1" and "door" will not initiate the forced defrost function.
To Initiate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Cycle cold control on and off three times in six seconds. The cold control needs to be left in the closed (call for cooling) position for the defrost system to energize on all platforms. It is not enough to cycle the cold control knob, the contacts must actually open and close (open doors for a period of time if necessary to force the control to call for cooling). In most cases, you can hear the contacts open and close if they are doing so.
To Terminate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Disconnect power for five seconds.
You were right. I cycled the cooling controls three times and it went into a defrost cycle. Thanks.

Aug 08, 2011 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

Does not go into defrost mode. refrigerator section becomes hot


The defrost is not working.This happens due to the evaporator coil in the inner section of freezer is got blocked by ice .--------

Try manual defrost reset procedure: ----

First unplug the unit from main power outlet. Then empty whole unit completely. Then keep both the doors open. Wait for 24 hours. All the ice collected on the coils and in the freezer section will get melted. Clean the water from the sections. Then Connect the power cord of the unit to main power outlet after 24 hours/.Then set the temperature to normal in both fridge and freezer section. It will take near to 4 hours to get run in its proper cooling cycle. Then check, if the problem returns again. If the same problem occurs then it's defrost problem. The defrost board and the defrost thermostat/heater is not functioning properly and it has to be checked and replaced.

--------------------

The procedure of this unit is as follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the refrigerator section and the refrigerator section gets cold. The air from freezer to refrigerator passes from the section, in that section the damper is located. Now this problem which you mentioned. In this problem the freezer thaws, this happens if the thermostat is not functioning or the heater is not heating. Then the ice starts getting collected on the evaporator coil. The evaporator coil is at the internal section of freezer. If too much ice gets collected then this ice blocks the fan in the freezer section from functioning and this blocks the damper section with ice getting collected there. This all procedure is controlled by the defrost board of the unit.

-----------------

So first try reset procedure.If that is not helping then defrost assembly parts are to be checked and replaced.The defrost thermostat is located in the freezer section beside the evaporator coil.The defrost heater is located in the freezer section beside the evaporator coil.And the defrost control board is located in the fridge section.-------------

you can get the required parts from online sites like:---

www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site.---------This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Feb 21, 2011 | Whirlpool GS6NBEXR Side by Side...

1 Answer

JCD2289AES jennair fridge refridgerator side is not cold but the freezerside works


The fridge side is not getting enough cold air from the freezer side. This could be due to a few things. The vents from the freezer is blocked, or the evaporator fan/motor has failed, or the evaporator coil is iced up due to the defrost circuit failure.

To check which is the problem you will need to empty the freezer to you can get access to the panel that covers evaporator coil. After removing the panel check to see if the fan is turning, also note whether the evaporator coil is iced up. If it is iced up, then the defrost circuit is failed. The problems usually are a failed defrost heater, defrost timer or defrost thermostat.

Aug 12, 2010 | Jenn-Air Refrigerators

1 Answer

Freezer ices up and refrigerator side won't cool. Repairman replaced motherboard and now the refrigerator side stays about 70 degrees.


either the defrost heater under the evaporator is open(bad) or the defrost control in the refrige section be it timed or adaptive can be bad

Jun 19, 2010 | Hotpoint HSS25IFMCC / HSS25IFMWW Side by...

3 Answers

Failed defrosting all freezer lights on


DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.



you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good.


Part 501a is your main control.

Apr 03, 2010 | LG LSC26905TT Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Whirlpool Refrigerator not working -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi all, I have a Whirlpool ED22PC SxS fridge which has stopped cooling on both the...


Hi. Due to the fact that the fans are not operational, this will confirm that the Main PCB has failed. This is the main power control board. It must be replaced, asap. The general location of this affected board will be just behind an access panel, near the compressor unit, or on the backside, mounted in the middle section of the unit.

Once the Main PCB board is replaced, the unit will return to its normal operating status.

Dec 21, 2009 | Whirlpool Refrigerators

1 Answer

Evap fan stops running/low cooling, Unplug Frig Evap fan runs


Is there anything obstructing the fan area, ice build up ? It is normal for your freezer to get warm if evap fan is not working, it is essential for it to work :) A defrost cycle should kick on a timer or as needed (adaptive) and there should not be excessive frost buildup that it blocks your evap fan. I would have suggested you unplug your refrigerator for about 10 minutes and see if that resets your control board - if not, then you will need service - either replacing motor assembly or a faulty control board.

Aug 22, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Not cooling, ice on evap. coil


After ten years, the defrost coil may be bad. That will allow the evaporator to ice up. Find the defrost timer, check it out first. Some have a manual control.

Dec 21, 2008 | Kenmore 53642 / 53644 Side by Side...

1 Answer

Ice Cube Tray Sticks


53282922_1db7fdbcf7_m.jpgHeavy Frost on the Coils
This is good! This indicates a defrosting system failure which is a simple control problem. It also means that the sealed system (compressor, evaporator coil, and all associated tubing) is fine as wine in summertime. Defrost system problems are easy fixes that anyone with a pulse can do with maybe just a little help from their friends. The problem will either be the defrost timer (or Adaptive Defrost Control board, if so equipped), the defrost thermostat, or the defrost heater. To locate these parts in your fridge, check out these cool, interactive parts diagrams.

Jul 13, 2008 | Refrigerators

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