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I don't have a schematic for this model but you can listen when the problem starts and you can isolate it by using a can of freeze spray into the amplifier section when the noise disappears try heating the ares until the noise starts again until you zero in on the defective component .replace the defective component and you are all set.
An i-pod provides a standard headphone level output. The AVR-1803 has nine RCA stereo inputs that will accept the signal from the i-pod. You need a 3.5mm stereo TRS plug on one end and two RCA plugs on the other end to connect your i-pod to your amplifier. Note: Be careful to select a 3.5 mm plug that has a slim enough plastic moulding to fit into the i-pod headphone output. On your amplifier you simply select the analogue input that you have chosen to use. Be careful of levels when you are setting up. Set the volume of your i-pod to about 50% and set the input sensitivity to zero, press play on your i-pod and gradually increase the gain on your amplifier input. Hope this helps, Don.
It is possible that while you cleaned the top with a damp cloth , some drops of water could have fallen on the board and shorted. If so it is possible that the amplifier had encountered a fault with a higher current drain which had triggered it to a protection fault condition. The fault can be your output drivers- the MOSFETS/IC's fitted for both the channels, Use a meter after disconnecting to check for short in the drivers. Disconnect the positive and negative voltages to the output and see if the protect changes. Even a fault in the preamp stages that drives in high current into the output can shut the Amplifier. Sometimes this can be a noise like a HUM or HISS before the protect works. Faulty capacitors in these circuits also can cause similar issuesand needs close observation. You need to confirm and replace the specific stages or outputs. If not there can be issues in the mother board, maybe the protect circuit by itself is shutting off due to a faulty bias , maybe a leak in any voltage/current sensing circuit. Also disconnect the speakers and test, if the protect is off then check for short on the speakers.
this should be fairly straight forward so here we go.
Firstly, do you have your speakers connected properly? If you get sound from anything else plugged into your amplifier, then all is good here. If you have not used the amp ever before then I will try to explain all.
You should have at least 2 speakers attached to the amplifier. Each speaker has 2 wires (1 positive, red or + and one negative, black or -) Have a look on the back of the amplifier and you should have e series of connections for the speakers, these are also marked in the same way as the amp. the connections will be marked as; FR - Front right FL - Front left RR - Rear right RL - Rear left C - Centre Fairly easy so far. If you are just listening to music then unless you want surround effects then 2 speakers will do. Now to the record player. Again should be fairly easy, you should have a twin cable with red and white plugs on the end and there may also be a thinner wire maybe with a small metal horseshoe on the end. On the rear of the amplifier, look for sockets marked phono. The right and white twin wire plugs in here. As for the thin wire, there should be a thumbscrew on the back of the amplifier, unscrew this and attach the thin wire here. Now when it is all switched on and you select phono on the amp you should have sound hope this helps
Each CD Player has audio out put amplifier circuit and this output amp remains Mute until it receive signal to out it. While using Y-Connector, when you try to listen one player sound, other goes to Mute as its in Stop position and caused to minimize the out put of other player which is being played. That's why you listen good sound if just one is connected. If you want to connect both players at one amplifier, you need at-least 2 inputs in amplifier and since your Fisher amp has not 2 inputs, so I suggest to buy another amp equipped with 2 or more inputs. Hope this info will help you.