Have a KUL 16" circulating floor fan w/ a 5 amp fuse in the plug. The fuse blew fan doesn't work cannot find a 5 amp fuse. What can I do?

Possibly the plugs either aren't connected properly or incorrectly plugged. Recheck the plugs. Also check fuses, maybe one blew while it was being plugged. The work should have been done with the battery disconnected for that reason.

You checked the relays but did you check all fuses that deal with those relays/fans ? Below are pictures of the fuse box locations and directly below each picture is the fuse layout for that fuse box. I have marked the fuses that you need to check. Alot of people don't check the "PCM BAT" fuse because it doesn't sound as if it deals with the fans but it does. Also the vehicles computer (ECM) have a big part in the fans working as well. If the fuses are good you are going to need to check some wiring. If the relays have numbers on them, you should have power at all times to the number 86 "plugs" in to the fuse panel. That's as far as I can take you at this point. If you need further testing you can reply/comment here or feel free to email me directly at [email protected] with your information and I will be happy to email you some further tests but you will need to have a digital volt/ohm meter for the next set of tests in order to diagnose the problem. Hope it's just one of those fises though. I hope this helps.....

Well the code is for the circuit - the computer commands the relay to turn the fan on and it doesn't happen.
The computer provides the ground for the relay.
If you have replaced the relay and the fan and the fuse still blows, I would look for a problem in the harness between the fuse box and the fan, including the ground circuit for the fan.
The fuse for the cooling fan is usually a 30amp marked "cooling fan" in the fuse box in the engine compartment.
Do you know what the 25amp fuse that is blowing is for ?

So what does the fuse that blows, protect?

You need a wiring diagram & start to test
the components most likely to cause a high
current draw & blown fuse.

Don't keep replacing it.

You know the fan control circuit works, but the
compressor doesn't stay on. Did you monitor
the compressor as the fuse blew?

May have a module for compressor & fan
If so one side failed
The compressor clutch could be bad

First, check the fuse block for an open / blown fuse. You didn't provide the make & model of your car, so you'll have to find out which fuse is used for the fan. Replace any open / blown fuse found with the correct size as determined by the manual. If it still doesn't work, keep reading:

Many cars and trucks use what is called a "resistor pack" that is used to determine various preset speeds for the heater & A/C blower or fan. When you switch the fan from one speed or another, power is passed through a different value of the resistor - which changes the voltage to the fan motor. The different voltages provides different speeds.

The resistor pack is usually the problem if the fan works at one or more - but not all speeds. It can be the problem if the fan doesn't work at all either. The location of the resistor pack varies with vehicle make and model, but is often very close to the motor itself and accessible from the passenger compartment. Consulting with a employee at an auto parts store or Chilton's (or similar) auto repair manual should get you to the right spot. Resistor packs are relatively inexpensive at about $25 or less.

I hope this helps & good luck!

check all the fuses with a meter , not just by sight, then, look under the hood for the fuse block there, check those fuses also, especially the main fuses, 30 amp and above,, with any luck he didn't blow out your computer

all these circuits share some common fuses, check fuse #6 ( 10 amp ), fuse # 11 ( 15 amp ) & fuse #12 ( 10 amp ) all in the inside fuse box at the left end of the dash.....good luck

Well it's temping to put in biggfer fuses as the problem gets worse but the size of the fuses are to keep you from burning things up so you've from your probem with a 30 amp smoke test. The raditor fan wire is melted somewhere in the wire harnes to the wire for the trck lock or even key on circirts. the likly place to look is inside the stering collum. It takes the skills of removing the steering whel and the lcok plate and even then thats does'nt have to be where the problem is. You need to look under the dash after you remove the covers and use you nose to smeel for the burnt wiring and open up any thing the smells like it's been hot and anything the appers melted together. once a harness is found melted you need to seragete all the wires in the loom but don't cut the wires justy seaparte them. once you think you've got then all pulled apart so no bear wires touch each other or any meal parts put in the correct size fuses and see if you can connect the battery with out a spark. if you can you may then start checking to see what works and what does'nt.. This all sounds like too much work or too hard to do then you'll need to pay someone theat knows alot about car wiring problems to do it for you. I'll been doing this kind of work for the last 20 years and a'm alawys finding new things that are fried and burnt up. We all charge by the hour to do this work so the most experieced mechanic that works on cars like yours will probly find and fix the problem the fastest. therefore they may charge more per hour but their likly to get it right quicker and it'll stay fixed after they fix it.. This is the most likly kind of work to go sour after it's fixed cause they might miss a circuit that you use and they did'nt try. and as soon as it burns again it's back to the drawing board and if big fuses are use the fire can take the whole car.

Many cars have the cooling fan on a thermostat or time delay, to allow it to run for a short period of time after the engine turns off, to cool the engine off. You may have just never noticed it before. So I wouldn't worry about that.
Your real problem is the blowing fuses, apparently you have a short somewhere in your wiring. Putting in bigger and bigger fuses is a great way to set fire to your wiring harness. It's possible that the wire is pinched or chafed somewhere, and perhaps when you hit a bump just right, it touches and shorts.
You may have to take this to the Chevy dealer or a GOOD independent shop to have them chase it down. Unless someone out there knows exactly what this is, it could be a tough one to find.

this can be solved by replacing the fuse with 5 amp more to the regular fuse your using,, this will surely solve your problem,, thank you,,plz do rate me..