The dryer worked perfectly the last time I used it (Christmas Eve) and now won't start at all. I've checked the circuit breaker, unplugged and replugged it and still nothing. The particulars for this unit are: Mod - C1108560290, Ser - ICEA951172, Type - DR-6
I thought about checking the door switch next but am unsure about where to locate it. Thus far, I have removed the back panel from the unit and am just looking for the next step!
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Re: Kenmore 'large capacity' dryer won't start
It appears your controller board/timer has failed in this instance.
For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing. I recommend both sites because ...
FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.
PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information. RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.
If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell. In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.
Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.
If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.
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Do you have the dreaded F7 message pulsating from your oven? The original purpose of the F7 message is to
signal a stuck START key, which is a rare occurrence. The more common cause is a type of short circuit that
occurs in the touch panel near the cable slot. The fix that I will describe addresses this type of fault. It will not
fix a stuck START key. It will not fix a faulty Electronic Range Control (ERC). If you are getting other errors,
such as F1, the fix may still do the job. F0 is usually a shorted off key.
Cleaning the ribbon cable connector is a myth. What you accomplish is to temporarily disrupt the short circuit
occurring near the slot in the touch panel. With time the short circuit grows back. It happens more often when
the humidity is high. So here is my solution to the F7 problem.
The most important step is first turn off the power to the oven at your circuit breaker panel.
You will need to open the touch panel. There are typically three small screws on the bottom edge of the touch
panel. It is advisable to have an assistant to hold up the panel while you work on it. Pull the panel outward at
the bottom to gain access. There are many wires attached to the panel. Do not allow the panel to dangle by the
When the panel is open, you will see a flat ribbon cable connecting the ERC to the touch panel. See photo # 1.
The principle of the fix is to apply additional insulation in and around the ribbon cable at the slot where it exits
the touch panel.
There are three basic styles of touch panels. Here is how the fix is applied for each style.
1. Plastic touch panel with a two-segment ribbon cable.
Apply a slip of paper or file card material between the two segments of ribbon cable in the area of the
slot. Work the paper down as far as it will penetrate. Typically it will only go in about 1/8?.
See photo # 2.
2. Metal touch panel with a two-segment ribbon cable.
Apply the extra insulation as per style 1. In addition, apply extra insulation on both sides of the ribbon
cable and the edges of the slot.
See photos #3 & #4.
3. Metal touch panel with a one-segment ribbon cable.
Apply the extra insulation on both sides of the ribbon cable and the edges of the slot.
If your style is different from the above three styles, the fix will not work for your situation.
Don?t be concerned about using paper for the insulation. It will not get hot enough to burn. You will probably
find a set of instructions printed on paper in the top of the oven when you open the touch panel.
If the fix doesn?t work for your situation, you will need to replace either the touch panel or the ERC. Here is
how to determine which one is faulty.
1. Turn the power off.
2. Remove the ribbon cable connector from the ERC.
3. Turn the power back on.
If the F7 does not appear after a few minutes, the problem is in the touch panel and it must be replaced.
If the F7 returns after a few minutes, the problem is with the ERC and it must be replaced or repaired. Check
www.cgiltd.com for information regarding repairing ERCs.
Good Luck. May the ?fix? be with you.
I understand you are having trouble with your Frigidaire electric dryer. Without knowing the specific model number there are still some troubleshooting tips I can recommend. Make sure the dryer is plugged into the outlet, and plugged in correctly. Check to see if the house fuse is blown or circuit breaker tripped. If so, replace fuse or re-set circuit breaker. If your house uses fuses, there are two house fuses that supply voltage to the dryer circuit in your fuse box. If one of the two fuses is blown, the dryer may turn but will not heat. Check and replace fuse in fuse box if necessary. If the house has circuit breakers, there may be two breakers with switches that supply voltage to the dryer. Circuit requirements are individual 30 amp. branch circuit fused with 30 amp. time delay fuses or circuit breakers. Your dryer requires a power supply of 240 volts to operate. Make sure that the electrical circuit is not overloaded and correct. The dryer must be on a circuit by itself. Overloaded circuits can damage the dryer and possibly cause damage to home. If needed have a Licensed Electrician check to make sure it is on a circuit by itself.
Lastly, the thermal limiter could have tripped or there is an internal problem with the dryer. A thermal limiter automatically turns off the motor (electric dryers only) in the unlikely event of an overheated situation. If this is the case I would recommend contacting an authorized service for repair as this is not a typical DIY project. Contacting an authorized technician can ensure no troubleshooting step has been missed. Parts are often costly and if the problem is precisely diagnosed, it can save you a lot of time and funds.
You can use the link below if you need assistance in locating an authorized technician in your area. I hope this information proves helpful for you.
Always unplug the appliance before working on it. I would suggest checking the circuit breaker in the breaker box for your apartment, to see if it has tripped. You have probably already done this, but try to reset (open all the way and then close) the circuit breaker. Plug the power cord in again and try to operate the dryer. If it trips the circuit breaker again, there is a short circuit or a ground, and you should unplug the machine and diagnose the problem. 240 volts AC, when shorted or grounded can start fires or kill people. Many Dryers are equipped with a "non-resettable thermal fuse". When the air being blown through the dryer gets too hot, this thing melts and opens up the entire power circuit.The dyer doesn't do anything, as if it had no power. This non-resettable thermal fuse can usually be purchased from the manufacturer or a good appliance supply store, and comes in a kit which also includes a new thermostat, to replace the one that probably failed and overheated the machine to start with. Get a friend who is an Electrician to help you if you are at all unsure of replacing parts in your power circuit. Be sure to unplug the machine / use a VOM to check it dead before you touch anything electrical. BE SAFE. 240 Volts AC is not just playing around.
I would check the breaker before you go any further. Here are some things to remember when you do this. 1) The breaker for the dryer is generally located outside on the side of the house somewhere near the electric meter. Most 220vac breakers are, which include any electric range, cooktop, wall oven, etc. 2) When your checking the breaker, actually physically touch it. Sometimes breakers can trip a but the spring that actually pulls the breaker to off position is weak and by visual inspection would appear on. Just simply reach in and tap the bar lightly in the off direction. If it pops over to the off position, turn it back on then go check your dryer. If the breaker passes inspection, I would unplug the machine because there migfht be a short at the terminal block where the plug connects to the dryer. After you've unplugged it, remove the back and check to see if everything is ok. I have a strong feeling that you won't need to get to this point cause I'm betting on breaker.