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Will not dry

Washer will go though wash and drying cycle but it will not get hot. The heating element is ok and working. Is it the timer and where can i get one?

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It appears your heater element has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Posted on Sep 12, 2010

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Admiral dryer timer not turning and no heat


It could be the high temp fuse on the element and the timer not turning depends doyou have it on the auto dry because it will not advance if it is not heating because the sensors are not detecting a decrease in the humidity levels because the element not working.

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No heat when drying


I have a Miele WT2780 where the fan motor stops spinning. This will stop the dryer from working even though the element heats up. The failure of the fan will not blow the air across the heating element and thus into the drum. New motors fitted are around £400 min. I am never going to buy another Miele - mine failed after 6yrs.

Another problem is the thermostat can trip. This is a small button inside the machine (TURN OFF MAINS ELECTRIC AND UNPLUG FROM WALL then remove the lid) on the right hand side of the alloy centre channel at the top. It has two wires connected to the switch and in the centre there is a small black button. Press it firmly and it will heat up again. If this keeps tripping then the air duct could be blocked with fluff. This is my next task as mine now trips more frequently so will post back here with instructions.
Update 12/10/16 - problem returned so dismantled top of air duct having removed the lid - tight torx screws - inside chamber was full of fluff. Removed and cleaned - all good now!.

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Jan 04, 2013 | Miele WT 2780 Front Load Washer

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My Neff drier isnt drying my washing it is hot but the


Is the fan working? this blows air across the element which in turn cools the steam into water then pumps it out via pump,Hope this is of some help

Apr 13, 2010 | Neff V4380X0 Front Load Washer / Dryer

1 Answer

Asko Washer/Dryer (WCAM 1812); Dryer not working.


Update: The dry cycle is now working! Apparently the automatic overload/shut off on the heating element got tripped. We had a technician out this morning. He unplugged the machine, removed the top of the unit, and simply pushed a little red/orange button that was on top of the heating element. When we plugged it back in the heating element worked again. The technician was able to troubleshoot this by checking the amps while running the dry cycle. But the proof was really when we did a load and the machine heated up (just like it used to) during the dry cycle. This was actually a relatively simply fix - though could be dangerous as you have to open up the electrical area. The reset button is rather inconspicuous and located on top of the heating element, which is long (runs front to back in the center part of the top of the machine - which you can get to by removing the lid/top outer housing) and silver - wrapped in insulation. It's pretty obvious. The button is in a little metal fixture on top of the heating element. The technician told us that the rest can get tripped when the unit overheats. (We think this happened when the laundry tub overfilled and the hose was totally submerged - the machine was working overtime to pump out the water.) The technician also warned that this can happen if the machine gets turned off suddenly mid-cycle - especially during the drying cycle. He said that the heating element gets so hot, it needs to have a gentle cool down period, which is marked on the dryer dial for the last 20 minutes of the cycle. I hope this helps others!

Mar 08, 2009 | Asko WCAM1812 Front Load Washer / Dryer

1 Answer

Hotpoint Aquarius 1200 Washer Dryer not drying.


Hi, I think the problem you have is with the cold water inlet valve? When your machine dries it uses a small amount of water at high pressure through a restricter fitted in the water inlet valve. These break down letting in to much water which cannot evaporate quick enough for it to pump out causing the washing to become wetter than after the wash/spin cycle. The only way of solving this is to replace th tree way water inlet valve. But make sure that the pump is working ok first and that there is nothing in the sump hose trap which is located underneath the washing machine out the bottom of the tub.
Good luck.................

Dec 28, 2008 | Hotpoint Washing Machines

1 Answer

Zanussi WJD1667W not drying at all


Hi,

I've got this machine, and all washer dryers tend to have two heating elements and it sounds to me that the heating element for the drying side of the machine's functions needs replacing. You could probably find a cheap element for the machine somewhere and get it fitted for a small sum.

Let me know if this rectifies your problem

WD Pro

Apr 24, 2008 | Zanussi WJD1667W Front Load Washer / Dryer

1 Answer

Forgot how to use


Doing a Load of Wash for Portable/ Kitchen Faucet
1) Make sure machine is set to Cold/Cold and never use Hot/Cold button (Hot/Cold is only for permanent hook-ups). Connect water hose to kitchen faucet. Turn on water to temperature of choice.

2) Load machine half to three-fourths full of clothes. (only half full is recommended if you intend to use the dry cycle right after the wash cycle. For half loads, push in the half-load button. )

3) Add detergent and fabric softener:
a. Liquid detergent into 2nd slot: only 1 tablespoon, 2 tablespoons maximum
b. Fabric softener into 3rd slot. this really helps in preventing wrinkles
(****NOTE: THE MOST COMMON AND MOST DAMAGING ERROR IN THE USE OF FRONT-LOADING MACHINES IS OVERSOAPING. oversoaping causes - pump failure, drain failure, etc. - none of
which are covered by the warranty. The only reason top
loaders use so much soap is because they use so much water and this dilutes the soap. Also, always use detergents that have an HE -- High Efficiency -- rating.)

4) Select Wash Cycle
Permanent Press is likely to be fine (32 minutes) as the USA has softer water than in Europe for which machine was originally designed. Hard water, as in Europe, means it requires more detergent and more washing motion than in the USA. Prewash and/or Superwash (53 minutes) might be preferred for dirtier clothes.

5) Select Spin Cycle
600 should be fine. A higher cycle means dryer clothes, perhaps more wrinkles, and certainly more noise. (Malber USA suggests 800-900 as the norm).

6) Make sure Spin cycle has cold water.
Faucet should be changed to cold water AFTER the initial fill even if you are not drying - all rinses should be in cold water for more complete removal of soap residue

If you use Dry Cycle
7) Select time for desired dry cycle. Make sure to change the faucet to cold water. If you do not want to use Dry cycle, select 0 minutes. Otherwise, use 120 minutes the first time until you can gauge what types of loads require how much drying time. Here's how the Dryer works: A heating element inside the washer heats up the load. During the dry cycle, as the cold water from the faucet circulates into the machine (in tubes, not mixed in with the load), it cools the steam and condenses it into liquid water which is pumped out.

After Wash & Dry
8) It takes approximately 90 seconds after the cycles are completely done before it allows you to open the door. Malber USA says it is due to safety requirement of UL. Who knows what UL security feature is for. Perhaps extra time to finish draining.

9) door slightly ajar to let the machine dry out. I have read postings that say the machine becomes smelly with mildew if you do not. Malber USA says this is true for all horizontal axis (front-loading) washers.


Most common complaints
1) Using too much detergent.
Front loader machines do not need so much water, and thus not so much detergent. Also USA water is softer than European water, for which the machine was originally designed, and that may explain why the detergent compartment is so big to hold more detergent. Soft water is easier to get suds. Damage is caused by suds. Suds migrate up the hot air duct during wash cycle and come to rest on the heating element. After repeated occurrences, suds (which are corrosive) will cause rusting and eventual failure of the heating element.

2) Dryer does not work, for several main reasons:
(thanks to Malber USA for points a and b)

a) the system may have overheated, tripping the safety thermal switch. This switch is located under the top of the machine and can be easily fixed by the consumer.

b) broken working thermostat. It is a relatively inexpensive repair to remove and replace this part and takes only about 10 minutes. It can be done by the consumer but it
is recommended that a qualified tech do the job.

c) Machine is too full and/or fabrics are too heavy.
Even though you can wash a maximum load of 11 lbs. of clothes, the manual suggests to dry no more than 7 lbs. of cotton clothes and 5 lbs. of heavy or extra large fabrics. Thats because the dryer works by heating up the clothes and then condensing the steam from the circulating air into liquid water which is pumped out. If the machine is filled too much or if the fabrics are too dense (e.g., jeans), the system cannot condense enough water and the clothes remain humid. Perhaps a second 2 hour dry cycle could work, but who wants to dry clothes for 4 hours.

d) Broken heating element
Seems that the heating element breaks after 2-3 years and needs to be replaced. And why is that? Most common reason for heating element failure is oversoaping. Suds migrate up the hot air duct during wash cycle and come to rest on the heating element. After repeated occurrences, suds (which are corrosive) will cause rusting and eventual failure of the heating element. But many people simply choose to not use the dryer rather than have it fixed.
Hope this works. Please be sure to rate me. thanks

Apr 17, 2008 | Malber WD1000 Front Load Washer/Dryer

2 Answers

My WVF 2402 washer/dryer washes clothes ok but doesn't dry them.


Sorry I'm way late with this but I've only just noticed it. Unplug the machine from the mains! Remove the lid (with a torx screwdriver) and you'll notice a small circular device with 2 leads attached on the top of the machine, in the centre there's a small button, press it and it should click......you've fixed it This is a thermal cutout safety device designed to switch the drying heater off if it becomes too hot. The probable cause for this is that you've over filled the machine and the air didn't circulate freely. as a rule of thumb, dry 1/2 as many clothes as you wash.

Mar 23, 2008 | Bosch Classixx WVF 2402 Front Load...

1 Answer

Drying cycle


The heating element may be worn, or a thermostat switches off the electricity to the element cause a overheating or so.

Jan 02, 2008 | Zanussi ZWF1430W Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Machine fuses house RCD if a drying cycle is selected


Suggest you turn the power off, remove the top cover, diconnect the live and neutral connections to the dryer element (likely to be two of each flavour of connection if the machine has high and low dry settings). Pop a bit of insulating tape around the wire ends so you don't short anything out. Now try to put the machine through a drying cycle. If it works (albeit cold) without tripping the house power, you need a new dryer element. If the house power still trips, turn the power off again and without reconnecting the element wires, disconnect and tape the live and neutral wires from the blower motor. Again, try to run a drying cycle. If this stops the house power tripping, then it looks like a motor problem (though this would be quite unusual). If the house power still trips, you need to have a careful look at all the wiring between the main timer, the dryer timer, any hi/lo heat switch, the blower motor and the element with its associated thermostats and thermal cutouts (all located near the element on the air duct). Look in particular for chafes where wires go round corners, and where wiring crosses from the case to the suspended machinery in the middle of the machine. Pop any follow-on queries in the comments section of this question - I'll keep half an eye on it. A.

May 19, 2007 | Hotpoint Aquarius WD63 Front Load...

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