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Re: How do I use an 8" T bevel?
Put it against the wall so it touches both walls. Then lock it in place with the nut. Next if you have a power miter saw lay it on the table and move the blade so it lines up with the angle thay you have then it will give you the angle for the cut.
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A sliding bevel is used for transferring an angle. What matters is the angle created between the handle and the slider. For example, if you wanted to cut a piece of wood to fit in a corner but that corner is not 90 degrees true. You would loosen the nut, place the center of the bevel in the corner so the edge of the handle lays flat on one wall and the edge of the slider is flat against the other wall. Tighten the screw on the bevel. Now you can lay the bevel on the piece to be cut and mark the exact cut line so the finished piece will fit perfectly.
The sliding T bevel can also be used for setting an angle by using it with a protractor. lay the bevel on a protractor, lock the screw in place at the desired angle, then lay the bevel on the work piece and mark the cut.
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take a topedo level and get the tripod base as level as possible. attach your level to the tripod. put all screws in the middle and level it. turn 180 degrees, level it. turn 180 and check. if withing the bubble, turn 90 degrees and level. turn 180 and so on and so forth. the adjustments should be slight from turn to turn. make sure the feet are secured firmly in the ground. If this does not level the automatic level, it needs sent in for calibration. I dont know the web address but I hope this helps
the miter should be 30 degrees. If it is mitering into a gooseneck fitting, there should have been a pamphlet explaining the three R's of stairbuilding. Rise, Rake, and Run. You will need a pitch block(triangle cut out of your step). I hang the drop over the top step, take the pitch block and set the short side of the block on the step with the diagonal toward the back of the fitting. push forward until they just meet and mark the intersection on the bottom of the rail and on the pitch block. now rotate the pitch block 90 degrees with the long side on the step. diagonal still facing back of the fitting. push forward until your mark on the pitch block intersects the top of the rail. now you have marked the top and bottom of the rail fitting. you will have to hold it as squarely to the miter fence as you can and when you cut it, cut it a little long to leave room for adjusting. the rail coming up the steps will be cut square and they will be fastened together with a rail bolt. if you dont have one, purchase the little kit. it is only a few dollars and it gives these insructions. good luck
Hook the square on the egde of the 2x4, if you draw a line along the other edge, this should give you a 90 degree cut to the length of the 2x4, if you want 10 degrees less (80) then pivot the square on the edge (length) of the 2x4 until the 10 lines up with the edge that you just pivoted away from. Pivot more and you'll get 20 degrees off of a 90 degree cut (70).
A standard square is used primarily for drawing 90 degree angles. Simply hold the fat side of your square firmly against the length of rafter. The skinny side of the square should be lying accross the rafter, forming a 90 degree angle with the side. Use a pencil to draw a line along the edge of the square and use this line as a guide while sawing the rafters.
If the hole is less than an inch diameter: use a hammer to tap the hole edge to bevel around the entire hole. Using the screen type drywall seam tape, cut the tape slightly smaller than the beveled area. Apply drywall spackle or compound to the hole, flush with the surrounding surface, then gently press in the tape evenly. Let it dry (6-8 hours), then lightly sand or wipe over with a damp sponge. Now apply a final coat of compound flush to the wall surface. Touch up with paint.
If large, say 6" or more: get a friend that does drywall to do the repair unless you have woodworking experience! Short of that respond to this FixYa and I can walk you through it.