Question about Rockford Fosgate P3001 Car Audio Amplifier

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Thermal light won't turn off...

So, I had this problem with the first amp I got. I bought it from my friend after he had it for a little over a year with no problems. I got it installed in my car by his dad and him, and it worked for about 12 hours and sounded amazing! Then I was testing it with a cd (not cranked up loud or anything) in my driveway and the thermal light came on. I couldn't figure out the problem, everything is wired correctly. Fuses are all good, nothing was blown. So he bought me another one (used, yet again) off of eBay a couple months later and I got it recently. I installed in into my car and guess what, I have the EXACT same problem. The thermal light comes on and the amp will not power the sub. I don't know how much more descriptive I can be... The rest of the setup I'm using is a Sony XPlod CDX-R5715 (which I'm not ENTIRELY sure where to connect the RCA's/REM to, but I'm pretty confident I got it set up right) and a Sony XPlod 1200W Sub. I drive a 1990 Honda CRX, in which the ground cable for the amp is connected to a screw behind one of the smaller access panels in the hatch. I know the B+ is connected to the battery correctly. If pictures of this set-up are needed to better assist me, please let me know everything you need pics of and I will get them posted on here as soon as I can. Thanks in advance for any help! -Brian

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Check your speaker load ESPECILLY if you are bridging your speakers. Sounds like you may have a very low ohms load and it is frying your amps. Do this BEFORE you hook up another amp. If you are using dual voice coil speakers it is very easy to get the impedence (ohms) wrong in your hook up. If unbridged then a 4 ohm load per channel is good. If you are bridged, then an 8 ohm load is best. When you combine speakers, that is when most people get in trouble. Good luck.

Posted on May 10, 2007

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Your friend has damaged his amp. The power light coming on means that the amp's power indicator LED is at least working. That light is only there to tell you that the amp is receiving power on it's 12 volt rails, not that it's necessarily using the power in any way other than warming up the amp's internal circuitry. When you say the amp gets power, I'm not clear on whether you mean the amp works in that fashion, or there's just a red LED glowing but nothing else happens. The amp needs to be repaired, and I would suggest to him to not apply power to it again until it is checked by a professional. The power supply has probably been damaged, and it's possible, depending on how the amp was mounted, that it was searching for ground through the amp's chassis if it was screwed into metal at its mounting location. All that seems certain as of now is that the LED works, but nothing else, unfortunately.

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