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Now we have replaced the element but when you turn on the oven it barely has any heat. Is it worth calling the Sears technician? Or should I buy a new one? It is 10 years old.
We bought the element at sears using the make and model numbers. The breaker is on completly and we have 220 at the plug. There are two fuses in the top of the stove back. Both appear to be ok.
The possibility of only 120 coming in made sense until I checked the plug power as the oven elements come on but only get luke warm. Both top and bottom element are doing this but we only replaced the bottom as it is the one that blew [ shorted?]. It did not just stop working but flared up breifly and had a hole on it after. The stove top elements are all fine. Thanks.We bought the element at sears using the make and model numbers. The breaker is on completly and we have 220 at the plug. There are two fuses in the top of the stove back. Both appear to be ok.
The possibility of only 120 coming in made sense until I checked the plug power as the oven elements come on but only get luke warm. Both top and bottom element are doing this but we only replaced the bottom as it is the one that blew [ shorted?]. It did not just stop working but flared up breifly and had a hole on it after. The stove top elements are all fine. Thanks.
Are you sure you have gotten the correct element? Confirmed the 240 volts coming into the unit?Are you sure you have gotten the correct element? Confirmed the 240 volts coming into the unit?
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Kenmore
Rating: 3 - 30 votes
The slide-in Kenmore Elite range 41053 has a true convection oven for faster pre. ...Kenmore Elite 30" Slide-In Electric Range w/ Convection - Stainless Steel ... Owners manual - English (Warranty) .... I called SEARS repair to look at my range and the repairman told me that this range has flaws with the oven fan and there is ...
Kenmore
Rating: 3.5 - 30 votes
The exciting Kenmore Elite double-oven slide-in range 4111 offers all the feature. ... Versatile cooktop options include a 12-inch triple-ring element, a 9-inch Turbo Boil Flex™ element, and a ... Owners manual - English (Warranty) .... Ovens are both conventional or can be set to convection, my first bake was a cheese cake.
If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.
THINGS TO CHECK:
the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.
If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.
The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.
Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.
The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
I would thing if you called an appliance service store or retailer and gave them the make and model number of the stove they can sell you one and maybe install it if you need them to but I would thing it would be called the oven switch
OOOPPs - not good , If you saw or heard a pop noise + spark then something blew or shorted.
If the 'loss' was quiet then a fuse or circuit breaker can blow without noise or sparks.
This oven has 4 Heating elements (2 on Grill) 2 inside oven , as you were baking it sounds like a heating element.
As this is a US model I'm assuming you are close to a SEARS somewhere, because they advertise parts made for Kenmore -- try this link
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Kenmore-Parts/Evaporative-coil-Parts/Model-867813350/0582/1610510/00007536/00001
Ray
What is happening is the calrod element has a short to the case which returns to neutral. Hence you have 120 volts across part of the element that is not the side that the oven control switches to turn that element on.
DO NOT leave this on as the element may start arcing badly and burn the inside of the oven underneath it. The large breaker will NOT protect the wiring in the stove against this problem.
If you can't DIY, turn off power and call for service.
Without a proper model number I would say you need to replace the element or the infinite switch for the element. Best off to call a reliable repair
company such as Sears.
Usually, when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake element is burned out. The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.
Since it is a Kenmore you can get the part at Sears.com. You can price the part there. I can assure you that a technician will charge you at least $125. to do that repair. If the range is old, you may wish to put that money toward a new stove.
It is possible that it is the element as they are the first items to fail
next is the switch which is a thermostat operation
elements cost upwards from $30.00 and the switch upwards from $60.00
you may have to get a technician to come and advise the problem
We bought the element at sears using the make and model numbers. The breaker is on completly and we have 220 at the plug. There are two fuses in the top of the stove back. Both appear to be ok.
The possibility of only 120 coming in made sense until I checked the plug power as the oven elements come on but only get luke warm. Both top and bottom element are doing this but we only replaced the bottom as it is the one that blew [ shorted?]. It did not just stop working but flared up breifly and had a hole on it after. The stove top elements are all fine. Thanks.
Are you sure you have gotten the correct element? Confirmed the 240 volts coming into the unit?
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