Question about Scosche Industries Scosche Slc4 Speaker High Level Converter

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Installing an aftermarket head unit into a 1994 Ford Bronco

I've installed a Sony head unit into my 1994 Bronco using a wire harness, but I can't get my speakers to play. If I directly hook a extra car speaker from another system to the unit, it plays fine. But when I hook the unit to the wire harness, I get no sound to the factory speakers. Do I need some sort of adapter?

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  • Anonymous Mar 13, 2014

    When i first installed the new HU i just hooked up the same color wires and it worked great except when i turned on my head lights. There is a orange dimmer cable (car side) that when hooked up shuts off my sound system when i turn my headlights on but when i don't connect it to the head unit everything works okay but no sound comes from my speakers

  • Anonymous Mar 13, 2014

    I have a MVH-X560BT and when i first installed it i just hooked up the same color wires and it worked great except when i turned on my head lights. There is a orange dimmer cable (car side) that when hooked up shuts off my sound system but when i don't connect it to the head unit everything works okay but no sound comes from my speakers

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Are you using and after market harness to go from your bronco to the harness to the new radio. if so make sure all the colors are matched up (e.i. purple to purple, purple/black to purple/black). did the speakers work before the aftermarket unit. Also check the wiring at the oem speakers

Posted on Feb 17, 2009

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How i can find wiring diagram for kingwood modet reg28


What kind of vehicle are you installing it in? Also , are you looking for the head units color code or your cars harness?

Nov 11, 2014 | Car Audio & Video

Tip

How to identify stereo wiring.


This comes up often in our forums and I've been meaning to address this for some time. If you have a vehicle that has had the factory stereo connector cut off from the stereo harness and do not know what each wire is in the factory stereo harness, you can follow these simple steps to determine what each wire is using a digital muti-meter and a AA battery or with just an analog meter. You may also need a 1 amp fuse and a few feet of 18-20 gauge primary wire.
First, with the ignition switch in the off position, test each lead for 12V+. If you are using an analog meter (my preference for this), set it to read DC voltage at or above 15 volts. Setting your meter below this could cause damage to your meter or at least blow an internal fuse. Attach the common lead to a known ground in the vehicle and probe each wire with the positive lead. Make sure you measure every lead in the harness even after you have found one that shows 12V + and record your findings. Typically you will only have one 12V+ constant wire in the harness, but some vehicles may have more. This will connect to the memory lead of your head unit, normally yellow on most aftermarket head units.
Second, with the ignition switch in the off position, turn on the vehicle's parking lights and make sure the dimmer is turned all the way up, then probe every wire in the harness again that did not show 12V+ in the first step and record your findings. When you have found a wire that shows 12V+, leave your meter attached to the wire and adjust the dimmer to see if there is a change in voltage, then continue to measure the remaining leads. The lead that shows 12V+ with the parking lights on that does not show a change in voltage when you adjust the dimmer switch is the illumination lead. The lead that shows a change in voltage when you adjust the dimmer switch is the dimmer wire. Your head unit may or may not have a corresponding lead for either of these (typically orange and/or orange with white stripe on most aftermarket head units).
Third, with the ignition switch in the accessory position, measure each lead. You should find one that now shows 12V+ only when the key is in the accessory and run positions. This is the 12V+ switched lead or accessory lead and will connect to the red lead of most aftermarket head units.
Fourth, with the ignition switch in the off position, set your meter to read resistance at the lowest scale and zero out your meter if you are using an analog meter. Reconnect the common lead to a known vehicle ground and probe every lead that did not show 12V+ in the previous steps to find the ground lead in the harness. This will connect to the black lead on most aftermarket head units.
Fifth, turn the ignition switch to the accessory position and momentarily touch each lead to ground that did not measure 12V+ in the previous steps. The purpose of this is to find the negative power antenna trigger lead if your vehicle is so equipped. Keep in mind, most vehicles do not have a negative power antenna trigger lead, so if you do not find one, don't be alarmed.
Sixth, if you are using an analog meter, set it to measure resistance at the lowest scale and connect the common lead to any of the remaining leads that did not show 12V+ or ground in the previous steps. If you are using a DMM, set it aside and connect one side of the AA battery to any of these leads. Now connect each of the other leads, one at a time, to the positive lead of your analog meter or to the other side of the battery until you hear a popping sound from any of the speakers paying close attention to which speak is popping. If you can see the speaker when it is popping, pay close attention to the direction of cone travel. If it moves outward, you have the correct polarity for that speaker. When you have found a speaker, record the two leads for the respective speaker and set them aside. Continue to measure the others in the same manner until all speaker wires have been identified. If you are unable to locate any speakers in this step, you most likely have an amplifier. If you do not have an amplifier and have found all the speaker leads, but can not see them to confirm the correct polarity, don't worry, you can check this during the installation of the head unit.
Seventh, if you have any leads not yet identified after performing all the previous steps and you have identified all speaker leads in the previous step, the only lead remaining that you may need is a positive power antenna trigger if the vehicle is equipped with a power antenna. If it does not have a power antenna lead, you can proceed to connect your head unit. If the vehicle does have a power antenna and you have not identified the power antenna trigger lead, you will want to visually identify all leads at the power antenna relay or at the power antenna itself. If you are working on an older vehicle that does not depend on the head unit for other vehicle functions and you can not visually identify the power antenna leads, you can try connecting a small gauge wire with a one amp fuse in line to the 12V+ lead you found in step one and momentarily touch it to the remaining unidentified leads while watching the power antenna. If you find one that causes the antenna to go up while applying 12V+ to it and the antenna goes down when you remove it, write it down and proceed to install your head unit. If your vehicle does depend on the factory head unit for other features in the vehicle, post your request for this information in our forums.
Eighth, connect all respective power and ground leads you found in steps one through five and step seven. If you have identified the correct polarity of each pair of speaker leads, connect them too. If you were not able to correctly identify the correct polarity of each pair of speaker leads, connect only one speaker and make sure the other speaker leads from the head unit are temporarily insulated. Turn on the head unit and adjust the volume to a low to moderate level and listen for a bit, then turn off the head unit. Temporarily connect another speaker to the head unit and turn it on and listen again. If the bass increases, the polarity matches that of the first speaker you connected. If the bass decreases after you connect the second speaker, reverse the two leads going to the second speaker. Continue this process until all speakers are connected. If you were able to visually determine the correct polarity of any speaker, but not all of them, start by connecting any of these first, then follow this process to connect the others.
-------------------------------If your vehicle has a power antenna and requires a ground to activate it, connect an SPDT relay as follows:
30 to ground
85 to ground
86 to power antenna output lead of your head unit (usually a solid blue wire)
87 to negative antenna lead
If your vehicle does have a factory amplifier, connecting your head unit to the factory amplifier will vary depending on the vehicle and type of factory system installed. In some cases the amplifier input leads will be the same respective colors as the speaker leads in the same vehicle without an amplifier and may be connected directly to an aftermarket head unit, but will require an additional connection to turn the amplifier on. Typically this wire needs to see 12V+ when the head unit is turned on. The remote turn on lead is usually a blue with white stripe wire on most aftermarket head units and can be connected directly to the factory amplifier's turn on lead.
In some cases, the factory amplifier turn on lead requires a ground to turn the amplifier on. If this is the case, connect an SPDT relay as follows:
30 to ground
85 to ground
86 to remote turn on lead from your head unit (usually a blue with white stripe wire on most aftermarket head units)
87 to negative amplifier turn on lead
In some cases, the factory amplifier will require some type of interface and can not be connected as described above. If this is the case, please search our forums or post a request for additional information.

on Mar 27, 2010 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

Left speaker in my 1998 chevy s10 fades out then dies


What have you tried?
Is this an aftermarket sound system?
It could be a fault in the head unit, the cables or the speaker itself.

Assuming that its and aftermarket head unit using original wires this is what I would do:

Remove the head unit to gain access the wiring behind.
Most units have the wiring colour coded and a generally in pairs for +ve and -ve, some even have them label LR (Left Rear) RR (Right Rear) LF (Left Front) RF (Right Front).

The wires are commonly joined to the existing speaker wires by insulated electrical "connectors" that simply pull apart, though only pull on the connector NOT the wire.

Half-way jobs are just the bared wired "twisted" around the joining wire and wrapped in electrical tape.

Ensure all the connectors are still in tact and

Test after removing each pair of speaker wire to which speaker is disconnected.
When you determine which wire is for which, switch the non-working left speaker over with a working one and test to see if the speaker still fades.

1. If it does not fade then your problem is the head unit - I would replace it.
2. If it does then the problem is in the speaker or the wiring.

Remove the speaker and swap with one of your working speakers.

A. If it still fades then the problem is in your wiring and you will need to run new wires.
B. If it does not fade then the problem is simply your speaker.

Hope that helps.

Apr 09, 2014 | Pyle Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

I recently bought a used hyundai 2004 elantra but the faceplate was stolen so can you tell me what sort of faceplate is compatible so that I can buy the faceplate only?


first off is it an oem raido we are talking about or is it an aftermarket raido if it is oem you can try the dealer but if its aftermarket you are better just buying a hole another raido and lertting a pro installing it for you

Aug 14, 2011 | Hyundai Electronics Hyundai Elantra 2004...

1 Answer

Cant find correct wire color code for my 2003 nissan frontier xe


If you do not know or can't find what each wire is in the factory stereo harness, you can follow these simple steps to determine what each wire is using a digital muti-meter and a AA battery or with just an analog meter. You may also need a 1 amp fuse and a few feet of 18-20 gauge primary wire. First, with the ignition switch in the off position, test each lead for 12V+. If you are using an analog meter (my preference for this), set it to read DC voltage at or above 15 volts. Setting your meter below this could cause damage to your meter or at least blow an internal fuse. Attach the common lead to a known ground in the vehicle and probe each wire with the positive lead. Make sure you measure every lead in the harness even after you have found one that shows 12V + and record your findings. Typically you will only have one 12V+ constant wire in the harness, but some vehicles may have more. This will connect to the memory lead of your head unit, normally yellow on most aftermarket radios
Second, with the ignition switch in the off position, turn on the vehicle's parking lights and make sure the dimmer is turned all the way up, then probe every wire in the harness again that did not show 12V+ in the first step and record your findings. When you have found a wire that shows 12V+, leave your meter attached to the wire and adjust the dimmer to see if there is a change in voltage, then continue to measure the remaining leads. The lead that shows 12V+ with the parking lights on that does not show a change in voltage when you adjust the dimmer switch is the illumination lead. The lead that shows a change in voltage when you adjust the dimmer switch is the dimmer wire. Your head unit may or may not have a corresponding lead for either of these (typically orange and/or orange with white stripe on most aftermarket head units).
Third, with the ignition switch in the accessory position, measure each lead. You should find one that now shows 12V+ only when the key is in the accessory and run positions. This is the 12V+ switched lead or accessory lead and will connect to the red lead of most aftermarket head units.
Fourth, with the ignition switch in the off position, set your meter to read resistance at the lowest scale and zero out your meter if you are using an analog meter. Reconnect the common lead to a known vehicle ground and probe every lead that did not show 12V+ in the previous steps to find the ground lead in the harness. This will connect to the black lead on most aftermarket head units.
Fifth, turn the ignition switch to the accessory position and momentarily touch each lead to ground that did not measure 12V+ in the previous steps. The purpose of this is to find the negative power antenna trigger lead if your vehicle is so equipped. Keep in mind, most vehicles do not have a negative power antenna trigger lead, so if you do not find one, don't be alarmed.
Sixth, if you are using an analog meter, set it to measure resistance at the lowest scale and connect the common lead to any of the remaining leads that did not show 12V+ or ground in the previous steps. If you are using a DMM, set it aside and connect one side of the AA battery to any of these leads. Now connect each of the other leads, one at a time, to the positive lead of your analog meter or to the other side of the battery until you hear a popping sound from any of the speakers paying close attention to which speak is popping. If you can see the speaker when it is popping, pay close attention to the direction of cone travel. If it moves outward, you have the correct polarity for that speaker. When you have found a speaker, record the two leads for the respective speaker and set them aside. Continue to measure the others in the same manner until all speaker wires have been identified. If you are unable to locate any speakers in this step, you most likely have an amplifier. If you do not have an amplifier and have found all the speaker leads, but can not see them to confirm the correct polarity, don't worry, you can check this during the installation of the head unit.
t the installation you hear.
When you installing the speakers connect one at a time each speaker and listen it, if there is a distortion the polarity is wrong just switch the polarity and you here the difference, do it with the rest of the speakers.

Jan 12, 2010 | Dual Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

Installing a Sony CDX-GT09 in a 2002 VW Jetta- power, no sound


definatley amp issue there should be a green wire with a red stripe in your harness, if you take the blue wire with a white stripe from the sony deck and hook it up you should have sound. good luck

Dec 29, 2009 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

Radio wiring harness jensen to jeep


Hello rickscarpell,

As far as I know there are no head unit specific to vehicle specific wiring harnesses at all. The aftermarket receiver will have it's own manufacturer supplied plug which most installers pair up with a vehicle specific wiring harness. There are some dealers that will mate the 2 for you providing a plug in solution. One in particular, www.installer.com, in Houston, TX, would solder and heat shrink any 2 harnesses together for about $25. But for the last few days, their website seems to be down. I'm not sure if they have closed up shop or what.

Hope this helps.

Oct 20, 2009 | Jensen Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

Need to find a wiring harness


I would need further information: What most people do not realize is that a wiring harness is not a "one size fits all" thing. There are two harnesses that you may need.

To remove your factory car stereo and install a new aftermarket car stereo there are wiring harnesses for most cars that will plug right in to the wires from your old factory radio.
For that, you will need to buy the correct wiring harness for the year and make of your vehicle. Say, for example: 1987 Toyota.

Then there is a wiring harness for the specific car stereo. You will need the make and model number of the unit itself. Example: JVC model KD-AVX77.

Jul 24, 2009 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

Need wiring diagram for jbl system


Go to 12Volt.com.
They have every vehicle make and model. Plus other wiring conundrums.

Jul 20, 2009 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

How do you install the frd03-dvd? mines came with no instructions.


Hello jeffery_armi,

The FRD03-DVD allows you to replace the factory head-unit and retain the audio and power to your OEM DVD player. With the FRD03-DVD, the audio from the OEM DVD player is connected to the auxiliary input of the aftermarket radio to allow the DVD audio to be heard over the vehicle's audio system.

The FRD03-DVD harness consists of a molex-plug, stereo RCA audio male connectors, and red and black wires ending in "pigtails".

1) Connect the molex plug into the OEM harness.
2) Connect the RCA audio connectors into the "AUX" inputs of your aftermarket head unit.
3) Tap the red "pigtail" wire into the "accessory" lead of the vehicle radio harness (also usually red).
4) Tap the black "pigtail" wire into the "ground" lead of the vehicle radio harness (also usually black). Alternatively, the black wire may be terminated with a ring terminal and secured to a metallic ground nearby.

Hope this helps.

May 13, 2009 | Pie Frd03 Aux/S

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