I represurised mine by the following: 1. unscrew the left hand circular tap all the way 2. slowly unscrew the right hand circular tap untill you hear the water coming through. 3. turn off both taps when pressure is good
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<li>The original factory code
is 1-5-9 A (or B) to open the safe. There is usually an override key
for your safe in case you have lost your code.</li>
Once the unit is open, you can reset the combination by pressing the red
button, the yellow light will come on. Input a new code 3-8 numbers
and then either the A or B button to finish the code.</li>
Test your new code several times before locking.</li>
If you don't have an over ride key, the first three digits of the serial number should be the key code.</li></ol>
My family has enjoyed the convenience and health benefits of drinking bottled water for several years. We have used a drinking appliance where the bottled is upturned and the water is gravity-fed. The water is then heated and cooled and served from hot and cold spigots. (I've seen other types of dispensers when the bottle goes upright inside the cabinet and is pumped into the water pitcher.)
The heated water quit working recently but the refrigerated part was OK. After noting how some members of my family used the dispenser, I have solved the problem. It is caused by the water level running too low in the mini water heater causing the element to burn out. Low water doesn't harm the mini-frig part. Low water levels are caused by using the bottle past empty and continuing to take water until it almost stops coming out. This "starves" the water heater, consequently burning out the element! Always replace the bottle on top before it gets past empty! If it gurgles considerably, it's filling up a nearly empty water tank probably with a burned-out element.
Maybe manufacturers can address this problem of too low water levels in subsequent models.
I just bought one. They are great! But there were no instructions in the packaging. I bought it from Godfreys and have always found them very helpful so maybe call them if my instructions below don't help. I just went with what I thought was right and haven't had any problems.
1 ensure appliance is turned off and unplugged.
2 press down and twist cap to release then it will unscrew all the way out.
3 fill with a maximum of 220mls of water (it comes with a little filling jug like you would get with an iron and it the max level on it is 220mls so I have assumed this is the amount you need)
4. Screw cap back on and on the final turn push cap down tight and twist - this appears to lock the cap in place.
5. Plug in and turn on
6 Let it heat for about a minute
7. Choose the connector - I find the best one is the one with the little brush attached.
8. Make sure the hose is locked into place on the unit properly. You need to slide it on then twist to lock. Same with the connector on the other end.
9. Face the hose and nozzle end away from you and squeeze the trigger on then back of the appliance.
Happy steam cleaning!
Ps I find it best to use the steam in burst of no more than 20 to 30 seconds as it seems to need a second or two now and then to build pressure/heat during use. I could be wrong but it seems to work better for me this way anyway.
Probably put your family at risk of electricution . By connecting the live cables to earth you have effectivly made all the metal light fittings live. It is amazing that the fuse has not blown, This in itself is dangerous and you should have an electrician look at the wiring.
The correct wiring should be as follows.
Identify cables there should be 2 twin and earth (red black & copper earth) cables and 1 twin red and copper earth. (or 2 single red wires)
connect all copper earth wires suitably sheathed in green/yellow sleeving to earth lug.
Connect 2 black cables to neutral block.
Connect either single red (0r 1 of 2 reds) into live block.
connect remaining 3 reds into loop block.
generally the lighting ring main is looped via the bathroom for the upstairs lights and in the kitchen for the downstairs lights. You have crossed the neutrals . As long as the live wires are kept together ,trial and error arranging the neutrals i,m afraid without seeing it.
Check the intake and exhaust plumbing for any obstructions. I had same issue, turned out to be ice in the air intake plumbing on outside of house. This may be the problem. The pressure switch can be tested by pulling hose from purge motor that goes to switch and applying a small amount of suction. The switch should make a clicking sound.