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Fist off before you get crazy replacing things make sure the camper is level when testing this. Gas will not run to it if you are not level. Also make sure the gas is turned on and make sure you have selected automatic or gas only on your fridge. Also give it about an hour before you test the temp. These take a bit longer to start feeling cool. If all of that does not work you will need to check the refrigerant, igniter(for the gas side) and the compressor. Also make sure the fuses are good to go at the main panel and that the breakers are in the "on" position
You would need to look on the label inside the refrigerator door that indicates the power consumption for your model. You would then need to compare this with the new model to determine the potential savings in kWh/year. Once you know the potential yearly savings, you would need to multiply this number by your electricity cost (it should be available from your monthly bill, or you can call the utility). Then you can determine how long it will take to recover the expense of purchasing the new refrigerator (minus the rebate).
Most of these mobile refrigerators can run on gas, 120v or 12v, your gas option is obviously OK, there should be electrical connections on the back of the unit which identify which cable are 12v and 120v.
Again most but not all units were multi option.
You will need to connect these points to the supply. To run this on mains 120v you will need to switch off the gas and 12v, similarly for 12v, no gas or 120v, and for gas no12v or 120v.
If you get the fridge to run on 12v remember that if it is on overnight it can reduce the battery charge.
The best options for these is gas or 120v when you have a mains hook up
To the best of my knowledge there is only ONE source connection and 2 internal connections that would connect to the water inlet valve assembly. This almost sounds like someone removed the inlet water valve and left it off of the unit. (Or.. the water valve was never connected at all)
The plastic tubing just presses into each of the water inlet water valve holes. you have a 50/50 chance of getting the connections correct if they are not labeled. If it is connected incorrectly when you depress water dispense the ice maker will over fill with water. (Swap the connections)
The inlet water valve will look just like this one. It will have 2 inside connections and one external connection. (see link) http://www.fixya.com/uploads/images/1E1A1B9.jpg
There should also be Two black and flat 2 pin electrical connectors dangling if the water valve was removed.
Take a look and let me know if your water valve is missing.
Thanks for choosing FixYa.
Power to drive a gas refrigerator comes from one of two places. Electrical or LP gas. That is if your system is dual powered. It must be shifted over to gas if the electrical is turned off or disconnected. A separate thermostat controls the gas end and an electric thermostat controls the electrical end. You must manually change the operating mode from one to the other. When in the gas mode no electrical power is necessary.