What is the best product to re-paint external stone windowsill
I live in a back to back victorian terrace.
It has stone windowsills/ lintels that need sanding and re-painting.
The old black coloured paint is bubbled and falking away.
The lintesl are in great condition and just need re-painting.
What do i re-paint them with?
What is the best product please?
I'd like it in keeping with the original stone which is a cream ish colour?
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Re: what is the best product to re-paint external stone...
As any good stone mason knows, painting stone is NOT RECOMMENDED! Stone has a natural beauty and durability that cant really be improved upon. Its my opinion that paint on stone or brick usually looks horrible. Especially when the paint gets old and begins to deteriorate. Stone is a natural material used in building for thousands of years. It is strong, durable, insulating from heat and cold and allows the structure to "breathe" while keeping out moisture and preventing condensation. Painting stone stops its ability to "breathe" and effectively closes its pores, which can cause condensation inside walls, break down the stone's surface molecules and premature erosion.
I would recommend power washing or sand blasting the surface to remove the old paint. Then carefully apply a waterproofer / sealant made for exterior use and stone in particular. This will protect your stone window sills and lentils from harsh elements like acid rain, bird poop and ice while allowing the structure to breathe and look beautiful naturally for decades to come.
I would not recommend sanding as this might change the surface of your stone and leave unsightly scratches and uneven surfaces.
You can look online for solutions by googling "stone waterproofing" and "stone cleaning" before deciding what is best for you. I highly recommend NOT painting exterior stone. Here are a few helpful results I have found.
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Well here is a tip that im shure you will enjoy!
How to patch a hole in your wall !
Don,t worry about cutting from stud to stud so you have something to screw too, just cut out a piece of sheetrock alittle larger then your hole ,
Then take your cut sheetrock piece and put it over the hole!
Then take a pencil and trace the cut sheetrock over the hole
Then cut out the hole to the size of the traced piece of sheetrock
OK here comes the fun part: Take 2 larger wooden paint mixing sticks (you can get them at any paint store , sherwin williams,ben moore, home,depot , sears, wallmart,lowes..you get the idea! and there always free so stock up for future holes,
Now take one stick and put it into the hole so that both top and bottom of the stick are equal lengths so that you can put 1 screw countersunk on both ends from the wall side ...what that screw is doing is making a secur backing for you to screw your cut piece of sheetrock to! ...but one is not enough so get that 2nd paint stick out and stick that also behind the wall and screw it from outside at top and bottom ...now your ready to screw that piece of sheetrock to the painsticks ..after thats done just tape and spackle ...once you try this you will always use this technique ,,GUARANTEED!..good luck and happy repairs, glenn
There are two different belts that have come on this machine, it depends on the year and the electrical rating. One is a round orange polyurethane belt, and the other is a v belt. You can buy them from industrialpaintmachinery.com
I assume you mean you want to clean the belt itself? You can use a rubber stick made for this. It looks and smells like a giant pencil eraser, about 1 inch square and about 10 inches long. However, if the belt is clogged with melted paint, that won't do much - but a stiff wire brush works OK. If the wire brush doesn't work, get a new belt. You can avoid the melted paint buildup (or at least reduce it) if you keep the sander moving rapidly over the surface, and use a good quality scraper to remove as much paint as possible before sanding. Good luck!
Shane, it's not the sander that is the problem. This is a difficult machine to use, even for those who have been in the trade for years. The trick is to keep the head moving, and apply vary little pressure. Sorry I didn't find you sooner, but I just found this site 2 weeks ago.I'm sure you have already painted by now but your best bet would be to purchase a manual pole sander. If you have any other drywall questions, or know anyone who does, feel free to ask.
You did not specify how the sanding discs are meant to be attached to your sander's backing pad. My experience with this type of problem is material from the sanding process builds up on the backing pad and does not allow the sanding discs to adhere properly.
If you have a velcro type system, clean the hooks on the sander's backing bad by soaking the pad's face in a plate of paint thinner for 20 to 30 minutes then use a wire brush to remove the rest of the paint physically.
For adhesive pads clean the sander's backing pad surface with denatured alcohol. Do not use isopropryl or rubbing alcohol as this may not be 100% alcohol and could contain a lubricant like glycerin. When the sander's backing pad is completely dry and clean it will hold adhesive backed pads fine.
Flaky paint is best scraped off before sanding, use a wide putty knife or a paint scaper to remove large flakes before sanding. This will minimize airborne dust and cleanup.
For best results with adhesives, always keep your surfaces clean!
Good luck and happy sanding! Michael Mittelsdorf
try using unsanded grout. you may want to use a bonding agent to make sure it sticks. home depot or lowes. If you want a rougher finish use sanded grout. You should scrape surface down to bare stone. Some times a heat gun will loosen the paint. Use a mask as the paint may contain lead.