Further to earlier posts on the same problem, my built-in flash no longer works. The indicator light blinks after taking a picture, indicating that the camera 'thinks' the flash was used successfully. Once or twice the camera has actually switched itself off after one of these unsuccessful attempts. Replacing batteries does not work. Do the bulbs burn out or expire and can they be replaced? Thanks.
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Re: Flash not working
It is either the small flash tube or trigger coil that need replacing . If you decide to do the job yourself, make sure you discharge the main capacitor before you start working on the camera ( when charged holds +- 300 v)
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Is this a canon dedicated flash? Does it fire but you don't get a picture or is most of it blank? Try clean off the hot shoe contact and the dedicated contacts with an ink eraser. It may be that there is gunk/corrosion of the hot shoe contacts on the body. If it is not a dedicated flash you have to set the camera to the flash sync speed on manual. On the model it would be something like a 1/60th of a second. Is the flash hot shoe cracked?
Yes, but not in the Auto mode, where the camera decides whether or not it needs the flash. Switch to the P mode, which works like Auto except you have control over the flash, exposure, and other factors. See pages 26 and 42 of this manual.
On these cameras, if you're using ANY of the auto modes (P, A, S on the dial), the lense must be set to the lowest aperture setting (the highest number). Check to make sure this is the case. If it isn't, that's most likely your issue.
If you're using a non-CPU lense, this camera can only be used on M(anual) mode on your dial. If you haven't changed lenses this isn't likely an issue. If however you're using a new (to you) lense, this is a possibility.
According to the manual, the only other possibility is that your attached flash isn't set to the proper setting when using "P" mode. In this mode, the attached flash MUST be a Nikon dedicated flash unit set to TTL mode, otherwise fEE flashes with a little lightning bolt symbol. If you're not using a flash specifically designed for this model, remove it and try again. If you are, cycle the mode button on the flash until it reads "TTL" on the flash's LCD panel.
The manual makes no mention of fEE (error) and the battery indicator blinking, so these are the only things I can suggest with the information given.
Your camera is equipped with a sports setting on the command dial see diagram Diagram here
This setting will freeze fast moving subjects and if you keep your finger on the shutter it will shoot continuously. Knot knowing how bright the playing field is I'm going to suggest going with a good ISO 800 film. My preference is Fujifilm but I don't know where in the world you are and you may have access to an 800 speed film on another brand. You have a great lens for doing this so camera lens film and the sport setting should be all you need with the Rebel XS. Now one thing if the built in flash decides to pop up just close it down. What I use to do if the flash became annoying was I set a little black bag over it and carried a couple sets of batteries. I liked using this mode because it let me concentrate on the players, game and composition rather then fiddling with the camera controls, let it do it's thing you just need to capture the action. Watch for the shutter speed blinking which will indicate that the shutter speed has dropped into a 1/60 or less zone and camera shake my blur the picture. Another setting I used was AV which is aperture value still using the Fujifilm ISO 800 I would set the aperture on the lens at F5.6 my lens was an F4, if your lens is say an F3.5 you would use F4.5. In AV mode you will not have the flash pop up or the shutter speed warning. Focus is the big thing you can blur the whole picture put if the players eye are sharp and clear you just aced the shot. Motion blur shows movement but focus on the eyes open the frame up show some of the players environment and you will be the hero in the club house when the pictures come in. Another thing Don't cheap out on the processing get a good custom lab to process the film one that is going to correct the pictures not run 'em through on auto feed. Take lots of film and plan on using all of it. Cheers have fun at the game(s)
I own an F70 with similar lenses. I am not fully familiar with the F80, and therefore can't be sure what I am saying will halp, but I believe it is the next model of similar specs as mine. However, from your description, I think what you are saying is that the little red light that flashes, before the photo is taken and when you have the flash mechanism up, is no longer working, and that your camera is haveing difficulty getting a fix on the focus in automatic focus mode?
This red light is not the 'red eye reduction' flash, but rather a red light (so it doesn't make your subjects blink / squint too early) that helps the camera focus: Auto focus mechanisms need light too. If your light has stopped working, then that would explain why the camera can't focus. This should however only occur in low light conditions.
-Obviously, if it's still under warranty - take it back.
-Get it repaired
- OR if that's going to cost too much or you were thinking of doing so anyway, a dedicated flash unit MAY solve the problem. Most flash units have there own red light to aid autofocus. At any rate, you could take it in to a store and test a flash unit in-store to see whether it helps with the problem. If a dedicated flash unit didn't help (make sure you try it in a dark room - ask them to take it into a back room and try it) then it might suggest another problem such as: the camera is failing to send the signal to the red light to flash rather than the light not working. After all, the red light would be an LED, which have extremely long lifespans.
Yes, you can. Unfortunately Nikon is so backed up with repairs, your camera will probably take a few months to get it back and cost you more than you want to spend. The labor is what is so much. Just like fixing your car a shop. Your camera probably has a flash sensor that has worn out or needs to be re-callibrated is all. I have a friend who fixes cameras.
WHAT YOU ARE SEEING IS BASICALLY AN ERROR WARNING THAT THE SHUTTER SPEED IS NOT RIGHT FOR THE LIGHT CONDITION AND THE LIGHTNING BOLT USUALLY MEANS THE FLASH IS NEEDED. IF THIS IS A FILM CAMERA, IT IS PROBABLY WANTING YOU TO PUT IN THE CORRECT EXPOSURE SETTINGS FOR THE CONDITIONS. DOES THIS HAPPEN WITH ALL CONDITIONS? HAVE YOU TRIED OTHER SETTINGS ON THE CAMERA? LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED MORE HELP.
Remove the lens from camera.
Look inside pass the mirror, how is the shutter?
Should be flat with the film with no warp or opened shutters.
Or try this:
Lens out, set camera to M (manual mode).
Shutter set at 1 (One Second).
Lnes drive pin (recessed) fully into the body, not S or C.
Set self timer on.
Press shutter button.
Camera should blink and then shutter should be tripped.
This will also check to see if you have enough power for min. of one shot.
When you take a shot slower than 1/20, the shutter takes longer to close. This means while it is open, it will record everything. The best way to correct this is not the flash really. Try putting it on a tripod. This way you can lower your shutter speed without sacrificing crisp pictures. Also, with a built in flash, you get a very shallow lit area. If your subject is far from the camera, the flash won't do much good. When this happens, the only thing to do is get a stronger mounted flash or slow your shutter down and open up your aperture. Hope this helps. Keep me posted. Photography is a never ending learning process.