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Sears 12 in bandsaw vibrates when cutting

Table shakes to the point where I can't get an even smooth cut. I have cleaned the blade wheels of all sawdust, but maybe they are out of balance

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Are you sure the wheel bearrings are in good shape, and are all the screwws in the drive pulleys tight,including the pulley set screws.

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

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12" electronic band saw will not return to zero bevel


Do you have a manual? Check your manual or call sears.
What are you cutting by the way? Are you using carbon blades? I have 14" and 7x12 band saws. I am using Haltbar bandsaw blades. Try to check sawblade.com

Oct 31, 2013 | Saws

1 Answer

CAN I USE A SEARS 12 INCH BAND SAW TO CUT MEAT. WHAT TYPE OF BLADE DO I NEED. DO I CUT THE MEAT FROZEN OR NOT?


That will work with the meat frozen or thawed, but the problem will be that the band saw will be very difficult to clean adequately afterwards. That won't be a big problem until a week after you have cut meat with it the first time. Once it stinks you won't want to use it cut anything! A meat-saw is made to be easier to clean than a wood or metal cutting bandsaw.

Dec 10, 2012 | Saws

1 Answer

Need a manual for a sears/craftsman model #103.24300 bandsaw


Any particular reason? If general settings problem, please follow this advice:

Brand of bandsaw is of no importance, problem is... I assume that problem is with regulation of the blade motion. Please follow these instructions, I posted them previously for another member, they apply to any bandsaw in existence, regardless of brand, manufacture, age or look...

I love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

Now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. Basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is housed driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for better self adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

Switch machine off and remove power plug from the socket.

Start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel, is rotating freely without wandering, and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock bearing guide in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous (3) operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position as well.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering, without touching bearing or side slides.
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the top guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. connect power, switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

This general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. Do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

Do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, do not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, allow blade to slide and cut, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

If you have problem with your bandsaw, not related to adjustments, please do not hesitate to ask further questions, let us know how you get along with this info.

Aug 15, 2010 | Craftsman Saws

1 Answer

Sorry as i have extremely little amount of info on this machine (not mine ) i said i would fix it for her it is a 3 wheeled machiene made by rexon i asked for the model & was told all she could find...


Brand of bandsaw is of no importance, problem is... You did not stated what is exactly the problem, I assume therefore tha tproblem is with regulation of the blade motion. Please follow these instructions, I posted them previously for another member, they apply to any bandsaw in existence, regardless of brand, manufacture, age or look...

I love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

Now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. Basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for better self adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

Switch machine off and remove power plug from the socket.

Start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel, is rotating freely without wandering, and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock bearing guide in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous (3) operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position as well.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering, without touching bearing or side slides.
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the top guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. connect power, switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

This general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. Do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

Do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, do not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, allow blade to slide and cut, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

If you still have some trouble with your bandsaw, please do not hesitate to ask further questions, let us know how you get along with this info.

Aug 13, 2010 | Saws

1 Answer

I cannot get the blade to track correctly on my JET 12" band saw. What could be wrong? I have done exactly what the manual says to do. I am not sure the square box on the outside is fitting. The little arm...


i love bandsaws, they are one of best and most universal woodworking machines, used as well in food and metal industries.

now, what you should know about bandsaw that it have several points of regulations and all of them must be adjusted correctly. basic "anatomy" of bandsaw is that it have body, in it there is driving wheel (bottom) and tension wheel (top), both of these are protected by rubber "tyre" usually crowned, that allow for bette adjustment and protect teeth on the band.

start with tension, open covers, retract top (above the table) and bottom (below the table) guides so blade is not touching the rear bearing or side slides.

1. rotate top wheel and see where blade is wandering, regulate tension and tilt on the wheel till band position itself on the centre of the top wheel and cuttin edge is off the wheel or rubber and do not touch the wheel or raiser.
2. cut strip of paper and slide top guide towards the blade till bearing touch blade through the paper (paper thickness is about correct distance of bearing to the blade), allowing paper to be slided out without tension. lock it in.
3. insert paper on internal side of the blade and slide internal slide guide block till you can only pull the paper out, lock the slider.
4. repeat previous operation on external guide block and after you slide paper out, lock it in position.
5. manually rotate the tension wheel, should operate freely, without wandering
6. repeat step 2 to 5 on the bottom guide
7. close the covers
8. adjust hight of the guide suitable to cut , allowing about 2 finger breaths above the cut piece.
9. switch on the bandsaw and switch off, after it stop, check for tension, switch on and make test cut.

this general rule applies to all bandsaw, regardless of brand, make, vintage. do remember that this is not a toy, it will cut through, wood, metal and your fingers...

do remember, that these operations must be performed every time when you change the blade, to not forget to use bit of silicone or teflon spray if you cut very sappy or green wood, do not press and force, use protection screen and googles, you have only two eyes and there are no spares...

Jul 30, 2010 | Jet JWBS-16B 708749B 16-inch Bandsaw

3 Answers

Cut is always crooked. From the top to the bottom of the cut is always crooked. Can not get the saw to cut a 90 degree ( or even close to 90) angle. Even of I adjust the table to be out of square to the...


Hi,
It sounds as though you may be cutting too quickly. Try decreasing the pressure you are applying to the wood.
You could also try tightening the blade more, until it PINGS when you flick it with your finger.(When it's stationary of course)
I'm assuming your guides are adjusted correctly.
JR

Sep 27, 2009 | Ryobi 9 in. Benchtop Band Saw

2 Answers

Ryobi Bandsaw model EBW4023L will not cut straight


I do a lot of resawing with mine and I have found that a 3/8" wide blade gives me nice straight cuts.

Jun 19, 2009 | Ryobi 9 in. Benchtop Band Saw

1 Answer

My center piece on the table will not line upor go back into the table top of my Delta 14" Bandsaw when I use a bigger blade. What should I do to correct?


Can you turn it 180 degrees so the slot faces the other direction?
If not, (because of the notch), you'll need to readjust your guides...You probably should anyway..
Begin by backing off the bearing behind the blade that keeps the blade from riding farther back into the outfeed table. Then loosen the guide blocks and adjust the upper wheel so that when the blade tracks on the tire, the cutting edge is just forward of the center of the tire, (where the cutting edge of the narrow blade tracked). Once you have the blade running smoothly, bring the guide blocks in close to the sides, and adjust the back bearing so it just barely spins when the blade is freewheeling, and provides support when a cut is made.
You may have to adjust these instructions slightly to account for what's available with your saw, but that's basically the method for making the blade track in the center of the knockout.


I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take a moment to kindly rate this post....thanks!




Apr 12, 2009 | Dewalt dw3988 14tpi portable band saw...

1 Answer

How do i take off and replace the blade on my berkel bandsaw


There should be a blade tensioning adjustment on the back of the upper wheel. You need to loosen this until the blade is loose, then open both front covers and possibly remove the guard, then install new blade and retension.
Then adjust the tracking and guides as follows:
Before tuning it up, loosen the guides and wheels away and square the table to the tensioned blade. Then follow these steps in order:
  1. First, adjust the upper wheel so the blade is tracking at the center or just to the front of center of the wheel tire. (You can see this with the cover removed, and adjust it with the nut/wing nut in the back).
  2. Now, make sure the blade guides are adjusted so they don't deflect the blade to either side (when looked at from the front), so they contact the blade just behind the gullet of the teeth, but not against the hooked teeth themselves, and are just tight enough to allow the blade to run freely (including the weld). (If your guides are worn and out of flat, you may wish to dress them on a sander before adjusting them against the blade.) Adjust the guides both above and below the table. At this point, ensure that the guide bar moves up and down easily and locks into position without torqueing the guides against the blade.
  3. Finally, adjust the bearings behind the blade, so they just kiss it, and turn freely when you revolve the bandsaw wheel. They will support the back of the blade when pressure is applied against it during a cut, and help immensely to keep the blade tracking straight.
At this point, check the cut by trying to follow a straght line penciled on a board. Some blades will naturally tend to veer slightly on a diagonal, depending on how they are sharpened, and you may have to adjust your fence to compensate for this "drift".
But if you follow the steps outlined above, and have a good sharp blade to begin with, you should be able to split a line.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!



Mar 23, 2009 | Saws

1 Answer

When making a straight cut with my bandsaw, the blade will


Before tuning it up, loosen the guides and wheels away and square the table to the tensioned blade. Then follow these steps in order:
  1. First, adjust the upper wheel so the blade is tracking at the center or just to the front of center of the wheel tire. (You can see this with the cover removed, and adjust it with the nut/wing nut in the back).
  2. Now, make sure the blade guides are adjusted so they don't deflect the blade to either side (when looked at from the front), so they contact the blade just behind the gullet of the teeth, but not against the hooked teeth themselves, and are just tight enough to allow the blade to run freely (including the weld). (If your guides are worn and out of flat, you may wish to dress them on a sander before adjusting them against the blade.) Adjust the guides both above and below the table. At this point, ensure that the guide bar moves up and down easily and locks into position without torqueing the guides against the blade.
  3. Finally, adjust the bearings behind the blade, so they just kiss it, and turn freely when you revolve the bandsaw wheel. They will support the back of the blade when pressure is applied against it during a cut, and help immensely to keep the blade tracking straight.
At this point, check the cut by trying to follow a straght line penciled on a board. Some blades will naturally tend to veer slightly on a diagonal, depending on how they are sharpened, and you may have to adjust your fence to compensate for this "drift".
But if you follow the steps outlined above, and have a good sharp blade to begin with, you should be able to split a line.
If you follow these tips and they prove helpful, please let us know your problem is solved. Otherwise, give us a little more detail and someone will be happy to follow up.

Mar 20, 2009 | Delta Saws

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