To skeeter140: I submitted earlier about my hotpoint oven. The stove burners on top are working and also the broiler burner is working. The glow bar glows red and burner goes on. However the glow bar for the bottom oven burner does not glow red or heat up. Is this electrical discontinuity or do I have a bad glow bar. I just took out broiler drawer and inspected regulator and all connections on rectangular igniter? They all seem to be okay no broken wires. Also took out lower burner and glow bar assembly no obvious defects. Should I just get another glow bar or is it the rectangular igniter. Again the broiler burner works fine. Is this a common failure on a two year old hotpoint oven?
My oven glowbar stopped working christmas morning. Yesterday we bought a whirlpool brand (igntr-oven #4342528) because it is twenty something dollars cheaper then GE. My husband installed it today. The only difference is you have to splice the wires (it comes with everthing you need) The first time he put it in it did not work because he had the wires backwards. He switched the wires and now its working fine.
My oven is two years old also.
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either its the oven sensor rod located at the top of the ovens cavity,or your bake element could be getting a hot spot which is when it gets a discolored spot in the element and can no longer pass sufficient current to heat the oven past 250 degrees
If the glowbar is light up then you have a circuit and all components are working. So Houston why don't we have ignition? Today's new fangled ovens use silicone carbide ignition. The oven safety valve has a bi-metal inside it. In order for it to open and allow gas to flow the resistance in the circuit must change. As that glowbar heats up it changes the resistance in the circuit. If it can pull 3.5 amps or better then that bi-metal will open allow gas to hit the burner. That is yall's built in safety feature. If a glowbar looks real dim and takes a while to come on if at all then it is weak. Whirlpool also has another type of oven that uses a safety valve with a thermocouple attached to it. A pilot light is on all the time on these and no power is needed to operate this stove. Over time the thermocouples cooper-nickel tip will wear out and won't hold the oven safety valve open. Other variations of this is a standby pilot and electronic spark pilot and a flame switch added onto a safety valve. Newer models use a computer board along with AC power to fire the igniters and DC power to open the distribution valve. Your broiler is working so I am sure your stove ain't got the DSI ignition system and you have not mentioned anything about a pilot light so I am assuming you simply have a weak glowbar. Video:
It would likely be your igniter/glow plug. There is also a limit switch or thermostat for that glow plug on some models which can go bad, but it is usually the igniter itself. Quite cheap to buy most of the time.
You can raise the top lid of the stove to light the pilot lights for the top burners. The oven is controlled by a electric glowbar ignitor. Make sure the cord is plugged into a electrical outlet. If it is and the oven does not work the glowbar ignitor must be replaced.
Because the glowbar is glowing does not necessarily make it good. Turn off the gas to the stove. Remove the oven racks. Remove the bottom oven pan. Remove the flame spreader. This gives you access to the glow bar and gas valve. Put a clamp on amp meter around one wire of the glowbar. Turn the oven control on to BAKE. If the glowbar reads 3 amps or less,replace the glowbar ignitor. If the glowbar reads good,check the burner tube for a white ash buildup. It can be cleaned with a wire brush. Look closely near the glowbar section of the burner. Check all the wire connections for the gas valve. If the glowbar is good and the ash deposits are gone and the oven still will not ignite,the next step is to replace the gas safety valve.