I can't zoom my lense, It is very stiff. The shutter is slightly closed, almost wink-like
& a little round plastic piece is loose inside at end that attaches to camera. The little round plastic piece detached and broke free inside the
lens. When I re-attach the lens, my D40 wont take pictures and
viewfinder display is blurry and got some very thin circular
patterns... Is there anyway to fix this by myself, or should i bring it in?
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Re: 18-55mm lens won't zoom
DON'T TRY TO FIX THIS YOURSELF! You will only add to the damage. If your lens is in warranty, contact Nikon for instructions to get it repaired. If it is out of warranty, I would either pay Nikon for the repair or take it to a camera repair man.
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There's really not very much an end user can do to adjust these lenses. They are precision mechanisms with small, moving parts and optics that all must remain free of dirt, dust and lubricants. Attempting to disassemble the lens could render it inoperable instantly - or down the road due to contaminants from handling.
Bring the camera and lens to a reputable camera shop if one is close by - or contact Nikon Factory Service to arrange for professional evaluation. Most Nikon lenses are protected from failure due to workmanship, etc. for 5 years with a copy of your dated sales slip (or other proof of purchase). If not covered by warranty due to age or handling, you will receive a price for repair and request for authorization for work to be completed. There is no charge for a repair estimate. You can choose not to make the repair and only be out the cost of round-trip shipping.
The SHUTTER IS NOT IN THE LENS. I\The shutter is in the camera body in front of the ccd or cmos sensor. You are talking aboput the aperture blades. Try changing the aperture, of course, unless you have a depth of field preview, you will not see the diaphragm open.close.
This blog post outlines repair procedures for stuck lens covers. An A400 is used as an example. But for the A610, you might want to extend your zoom all the way out before removing the camera's batteries. Note that the A610 has four shutter leaves instead of two, so pay particular attention how they're assembled if you remove the lens ring. Also you'll be applying the ring loosening rubbing alcohol around the barrel's perimeter instead of the front as shown in the procedures. One other thing, try not to get any alcohol on the lens itself:
This seems to be a common issue. Mine was stuck at what seemed like max optical zoom. When i would look in the lens I could not see the zoom lens. If you can not see your zoom lens and the optical zoom seems stuck I bet your camera has the same STUPID issue that mine has.
It was out of warranty and I figured I had nothing to loose so I took it apart to see if I could fix it, turns out I was able to fix it just by taking it apart and putting it back together!
Taking it apart is simple enough for the average handy man, if you do not have confidence that you can take it apart then do not attempt this repair.
Take off the bottom cover. Take off the Hard drive cover Now remove the three screws under the hard drive that hold the drive's plastic housing in. Remove the screw that is right under the record button, now the drive house should be loose. Disconnect drive cable from board and remove drive and housing. Take off the plastic piece that has the zoom button, be sure to gently disconnect the wire. Remove rear piece. That screw marked with an arrow on the bottom, do not remove it! Now remove the thin metal piece to expose the flat cable. disconnect flat cable from board gently flex it out of the way so you can disconnect the cable behind it. Once you have both disconnected remove the circuit board. unplug the flat cable on the back side. Now remove the front piece. At this point you are nearly there! Now remove the metal housing that holds the lens assembly. Once removed remove the lens assembly by removing the three screws.
If you thought that was bad, this next part will scare you. Make sure you are in a very clean room with no fans blowing. Remove the CCD from the rear of the lens assembly by removing the two screws on the back that hold it in place. Remove the foam and square lens piece that were behind the CCD. On the side of the assembly is a screw that holds the top cover in, remove it and gently pry off the top cover.
looking inside you will find the following: on the CCD side is the focus lens. in the middle is the shutter On the side farthest from the CCD is a zoom lens.
On mine the zoom lens was not close to the shutter If your zoom lens is not close to the shutter then you likely have the same problem as I had and you can fix yours! If not, you likely have some other issue :-(
To fix mine I turned it over and I loosened the screws that held the motor and shaft for the zoom lens. Then I slid the zoom lens as far back as it would go towards the shutter. Then tightened the zoom lens motor and shaft mount. Put it all back together, installed battery and bingo it's working again!
Why did this fix the problem? Well there is a little sensor that tells the camera that the zoom lens is near the shutter. Each time you turn off the camera it always puts the lens in that "home" position. If the camera is turned on when the zoom lens is not in this "home" position then the camera seems to assume the zoom is broken and you end up with the infamous JVC stuck zoom issue.
My guess is this problem is caused by any of the following: 1. Removing the battery while the camera is turned on 2. Dropping the camera while it is on or off 3. Battery going dead while camera is in use
Final thoughts before you get started:
1. If you are not good at working with tiny parts or electronics, I wish you luck because you will need it. Might be better off printing these instructions and taking them with you to a repair facility and paying someone more familiar with this sort of work to fix it for you.
2. The ribbon cables are removed easily. Each one has a clamp that rotates to release the ribbon. Some rotate towards the ribbon to release, others work the opposite. It is quite obvious looking at them which ones go what way.
it depends on what the problem acctually is. In my experience with cammeras such as these, a problem of this nature is not worth the trouble, but if you really like the cammera then take the covers off by removing the screws around the cammera body. Start by removing the back peace. you wont need to remove the door for the batteries or the two screws around the mount on the bottom of the cammera that hold the screw tripod mount in place. once you remove the backing you will expose at least one more screw on the side that holds the front cover on. you will want to very carefully remove the wires for the backing by pulling back the ribbon cable retainer clip and the ribon cable retainer clip must be pulled back carefully for the shutter switch as well when removing the front pannel of the cammera. Unplug the yellow wire for the micro switch in the front if applicable and then you will have exposed the lense. remove the screws holding the lense assembly in and then look around at the operation. THERE IS A CAPACITOR IN THE FRONT OF THE CAMMERA THAT WILL SHOCK YOU!!! DO NOT TOUCH THE BOARD. I've been shocked by the thing at least 3 times today so dont get all hasty. you will probably notice one of the gears are stuck or something you can buy a new lense assembly and install it but it is probably just as much as the cammera. I would sugges trying to repair it or if it is too damaged throw it away. It depends on what you find. you can look up small gears on line but it also may just need to be set back in or cleaned. You may also want to replace the cammera battery while you are in there. When removing the back pannel start from the bottom of the cammera and slightly hinge up and pull the backing away genly as to not snap the retainers in the upper part of the cammera or yank out the ribbon cable. REMOVE THE BATTERY BEFORE YOU BEGING. WITH THE BATTER REMOVED THE CAPACITOR WILL STILL SHOCK YOU. be careful.
Hi, I have the same problem with my sony DSC-S700. I think someone drop it, and it took pictures with horizontal line specially outdoor. I noticed that the lens shutter does'nt open and close. All I did was to tap on the lens several times and everythings back to normal. I so happy my camera is working again. Thanks to your idea. Brenton
What you are experiencing is not blur, its camera shake. You are shooting in low light so the shutter speed is being reduced by the camera's automatic features. Also the longer the lens (the farther you zoom), the higher the shutter speed you need. Even for non moving objects or when panning the shutter speed should be at least one stop above the focal length. ie - 300mm lens = 500 or 1000 shutter AT LEAST! (and don't forget, if its a film lens on your rebel, thats actually
300mm x 1.6 =480mm, so 1000 shutter or higher min.) Moving objects require even faster shutters. Solutions: Get faster (also called brighter) lenses which can be pricey. In low light use higher iso settings in the camera menu. Shoot in either manual or Tv mode and choose the higher shutter speeds while using the light meter to decide aperture. Use wider angle lenses or back off the zoom and move closer. Stabilizers built into the lens can steady the shot by two to four times as well.