I can't zoom my lense, It is very stiff. The shutter is slightly closed, almost wink-like
& a little round plastic piece is loose inside at end that attaches to camera. The little round plastic piece detached and broke free inside the
lens. When I re-attach the lens, my D40 wont take pictures and
viewfinder display is blurry and got some very thin circular
patterns... Is there anyway to fix this by myself, or should i bring it in?
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Re: 18-55mm lens won't zoom
DON'T TRY TO FIX THIS YOURSELF! You will only add to the damage. If your lens is in warranty, contact Nikon for instructions to get it repaired. If it is out of warranty, I would either pay Nikon for the repair or take it to a camera repair man.
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There's really not very much an end user can do to adjust these lenses. They are precision mechanisms with small, moving parts and optics that all must remain free of dirt, dust and lubricants. Attempting to disassemble the lens could render it inoperable instantly - or down the road due to contaminants from handling.
Bring the camera and lens to a reputable camera shop if one is close by - or contact Nikon Factory Service to arrange for professional evaluation. Most Nikon lenses are protected from failure due to workmanship, etc. for 5 years with a copy of your dated sales slip (or other proof of purchase). If not covered by warranty due to age or handling, you will receive a price for repair and request for authorization for work to be completed. There is no charge for a repair estimate. You can choose not to make the repair and only be out the cost of round-trip shipping.
The SHUTTER IS NOT IN THE LENS. I\The shutter is in the camera body in front of the ccd or cmos sensor. You are talking aboput the aperture blades. Try changing the aperture, of course, unless you have a depth of field preview, you will not see the diaphragm open.close.
Maybe very new but you explained the problem so well and even gave an example, I wish others were so throw. I'm going to assume you are attempting a portrait (close to subject 10ft) with the lens at 135mm your depth of field would be fairly shallow, without looking it up and doing some math I'd say about 3/8 of an inch backing the lens up a little say to 100mm would increase this to about maybe 3 inches at your present aperture and shutter speeds. So two things are happening here one you have maxed out the lens close focus capabilities which you found you can back up to say 100mm and it works Second both "auto and P" will balance both the shutter speed and aperture obviously to give correct exposure. What this also does possibly is opens up the aperture ( I have no idea in auto) to I'd think about F5.6 at a shutter speed of 1/60 couple that with your 135mm and you have nothing for Depth Of Field. I'm still assuming you are taking a portrait could also be still life what ever the subject is close and depth of field diminishes the closer you are to your subject and using telephoto zoom lenses. I'll give you a case scenario for portrait at 10 actually better at 12 feet great place to start for what you are doing is (hand held) shutter at 1/80 and your F stop at F8 watch your light meter. Also with that camera you can activate what is called Program Shift, "P" which is program will allow the user to shift ether the aperture, shutter or both from the camera setting, again watch your light meter. If you hesitate a few seconds the setting will return to where the camera feels it should be. Program is the best way to quickly grab a shot then finesse the second shot it will actually teach you how to use the more creative zones Like "M" manual "TV" time value (shutter speed) and "AV" aperture value. You have a great tool there and with a little time and practice you'll be making some great photo's Hope I didn't confuse the issue
If you are experienced or brave enough, dismantle the lens from the rear until you can recover the loose piece. You will probably find that the rear cluster of lenses has fallen off the other end of the helical cam tracks on which it travels. This happens because the two steel strips have got bent. They should run exactly parallel to the axis of the tube. Remove the two strips (4 screws) and straighten them carefully. Reassembling this lot is difficult. Engage the lens cluster on its tracks--it will fit 3 ways and only one is correct. The loose piece is a light baffle which engages with the back of the lens cluster and again will fit two wrong ways and one correct. It has a projecting lug which travels down a groove in the tube. When I had reassembled mine it still felt stiff and about to seize again and I am sure that excessive friction causes so much force that the steel strips bend and lead to it all falling to pieces. I greased the moving parts with silicone grease (from a plumbers merchant!) --most other lubricants either harden up or damage the plastic. I managed to break the wires to the auto-manual switch but they were easily resoldered. The lens now zooms smoothly and takes good pictures. But take care--it is easy to create more faults as you go.
This lens is too old for the D90, it has not got the electronics for metering and autofocus. You can use it manually in M mode but you will have to set the aperture and shutter yourself. The D90 manual has a section on compatible lenses, page 228 in my version. This recommends CPU lenses for the D90, type G and D.
If I read this right, your lens is a 28 to 200mm zoom lens with aperture of f:3.5 - f:5.6. What this means is that at 28mm it has a maximum aperture of f:3.5. When you zoom out to 200mm, the maximum aperture is now f:5.6. This is perfectly normal for a zoom lens of this type.
Typical situation in Shutter preferred mode. I have the shutter set at 1/125 of a second and the f:stop is f:3.5. When I zoom out to 200mm, the shutter speed is still 1/125 of a second, but the f:stop is now f:5.6 and I have decreased exposure (darkened the picture) by almost 2 full f: stops.
Realizing this, I think that "turning off the camera" really isn't a fix. The problem is realizing that the aperture will change as the focal length of the lens changes (as you ZOOM in or out on your subject). Try the aperture preferred mode and you should note that the shutter speed will change as you zoom in and out.
Most important, pay attention to shutter and f:stop info in your viewfinder. FYI : Zoom lenses that hold aperture at all ranges cost several thousand dollars, and canon makes them - they weigh a ton.