When unit goes on, there is a slight odor of gas when the valve
Opens for the pilot to light the burner. I didn't have that with my
other unit. Is that normal. Also, there is still an odor as if the
unit is still curing,is that normal? I have a Cozy 351A, 35000
Re: When unit goes on, there is a slight odor of gas when...
Cozy cheapened their heaters awhile back doing away with the air shutter. Without the shutter, a little gas can seep out into the room before it ignites and cause an odor. As for the curing odor, can you see the pilot flame looking down from the top of the heater? The pilot should be well inside the exchanger out of view. If you can see it, fumes from the pilot are getting into the room causing an odor. I had to remove the plate that holds the pilot assembly and drill a new hole shifting the plate over where it belongs. It was poorly assembled at the factory. Hope this helps.
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Unit goes under sure heat name also. My unit emitted unburnt gas smell the minute pilot started, and was annoying during burner operation. I discovered they built unit with primary pilot that had 2 ports. They used LP and sealed off natural gas,instead turning lp/nat knob on back activates second pilot for natural gas use. This means natural gas goes thru LP pilot orifice and burns slightly off during normal natural gas use(by design). The unused natural gas orifice has 1 air mix hole and the LP orifice has 2 air mix holes. I carefully plugged 1 of the holes in the LP orifice and suddenly pilot gas flame seated correctly on orifice port.Gone was the unburnt odor of natural gas. The typical flame in a flame appearance now was exhibited by the small pilot,secondary pilot remained consistent with manual picture. Of course, to use with LP I would have to open blocked air mix hole in addition to the other changes per manual. Hope this helps someone with similar condition.
Is there a way to check for gas pressure even if just a slight loosened connection to hear it then quickly re-tightened. Otherwise the main valve is not working as it should and will need to be serviced or replaced. Thats all i got.
Motor runs, but main burner will not ignite
1.heat switch set wrong---correct switch setting
2.defective timer or timer circuit---check timer wiring--replace timer motor or switch as needed
3.defective centrifugal switch in motor---clean switch or replace as needed
4.gas supply valve closed----open gas valve
5.inoperative solenoid coil---test coil for open circuit & the voltage to it
Pilot burner goes out
1.insufficient gas supply---- low gas pressure or clogged pilot filter or partially closed gas valve
2.carbon deposit on thermocouple tube---clean tube & check pilot burner for proper combustion
3.improperly adjusted pilot flame--adjust pilot flame until faint yellow tip begins to appear
4.faulty ignition or reset valve or thermocouple---replace
Pilot assembly is located inside the bottom compartment, between the the two middle burners while the gas valve is located under the burner manifold. Make sure that the gas line where the unit is connected is open. You need to turn the gas valve knob to "Pilot" position and depress it (to allow the gas to flow on pilot) then light the pilot assembly using a lighter with extended nozzle ( burner igniter). Once the flame is present at the pilot assembly, wait for about 15 seconds (allowing thermopile to heat up) the gradually release the gas valve knob. If the pilot flame is stable, turn the gas valve knob to "ON" position and set the thermostat to desired temperature setting. This will ignite the burners and heat up the oil to set temperature. Just remember, do not do this if there is no oil on fry tank.
call aservice tech your pilot light might be blocked therefore the pilot flame might not be strong enough to handle the puff of gas when the gas valve opens ps. if the unit is off in the summer spiders are usually the problem. Hope this helps
On standing pilot ovens the maker uses a safety device to kill the gas in case the pilot blows out. As long as the pilot is lit the gas safety magnet hold the gas flap open inside the safety valve.To save energy the pilot has 2 flames. The standby pilot keeps the cooper/nickel probe/sensor warm so the oven will light faster, the 2nd pilot is much larger, only appears when the oven control is turned on and this is what opens that valve. So when you turn the oven knob on the gas leaves the control and goes downtown to burner land. If that pilot is lit and that slow opening flap inside that valve is open, then the gas will enter the burner tube and ignite when it hits the pilot. Pretty slick ain't it? So what can go wrong? With age the flap inside the safety valve will wear out, get weak, work a little, then take forever to light and eventually just goes bye bye. When you get ready to replace the valve it ain't gonna be adjusted exactamundo, you gotta tweak it. To do so after bubble testing for leaks and lighting the pilot you turn it on and observe the flames. It needs to be not more than half way up the flame spreader. If it is to small of a flame it will take forever to bake even a pie shell, if it is too much their could be burned bottom and in some cases fire hazards. OOPs.
I have the same problem with one of my burners (I have a morice range). I changed the thermocouple, but it didn´t help. I contacted Morice in France and was told that the problem most sertainly was the coil inside the gasvalve. I don´t know if it possible to dismantle the ovengasvalve to check the coil. As for a burner valve, one should open the valve at the end were the gas goes out to the burner to locate this coil. Best of luck
The thermocouple is the pilot's, well, co-pilot! It is the electronic device that senses if the pilot flame is hot enough to sustain burning the gas fuel from the burner. If the thermocouple thinks it's safe, then it keeps open the main gas valve located in the pilot assembly. If the thermocouple does not sense enough heat from the pilot flame (such as when the pilot is out), then the thermocouple shuts off the gas valve to the burners. How the Thermocouple Works So what is this thing and how does it work? Well the thermocouple (technically called a thermocouple junction) is a device that contains two metal wires welded at the ends and placed inside a protective metal case. The thermocouple sensor is found at the business end of the pilot flame and is designed to be placed in the hottest part of the flame. The other end is connected to the pilot valve body. As the thermocouple heats up, it produces a small amount of electricity and when it gets hot enough from the pilot, send a signal to open the gas valve by using a solenoid operated by a 24 volt transformer. The thermocouple calls the shots, and by converting heat to an electrical signal, it allows the gas valve to open or close.
Once the gas valve is open, gas is then constantly supplied to the pilot and as required for the gas burners (as called for by the thermostat). If the pilot goes out, then the thermocouple gets cold and produces no electric signal to open the gas valve's solenoid and the gas valve shuts off the gas supply to the pilot and burners
You might have a slight odor of gas when the burner first ignites. Some gas does escape before it completely ignites. It shouldn't smell after 2 years of use. If you can see the pilot flame burning from the top of the heater, the heater pilot assembly is pushed over too far. The pilot fumes could be escaping in the room and cause a smell.