I have an Ideal 61-501 circuit tester. I am using it to follow up on problems noted during our recent house inspection, and correct them if possible. On one outlet noted as being "reverse polarity," I reversed the white and black wires attached to the screws, but not the set inserted into the back of the outlet, and the tester indicates "Hot / Neu. Reverse." The tester's instructions do not explain what is meant by the different possible results, nor how to correct them. Can someone provide explanations for: Open Ground Open Neutral Open Hot Hot / Grd. Reverse Hot / Neu. Reverse
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Re: Understanding Outlet Circuit Test Results
Open ground=ground wire (green) is not connected to the circuit box ground or to the earth ground.
(there should have steel rod place in the ground by the local electric company, and gtound wire is connected to that rod).
Open Neutral= same as open ground. unless you are testing 240V, which have 2 hot (110v) and a neutral (0V).
Open Hot= open 110v line (black)
hot/ground reversed= if you understand the above, then this sould be self explaintory.
same a hot/neu. reverse.
if you don't understand how electric wiring works, My suggestion is to stay out.
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Well, sir, that will depend on our level of electrical knowledge.
Try this, especially for a novice, is buy a ohm meter/electrical tester at a store and follow the instructions.
These cost in the neighborhood of 10 to 15 dollars at stores like car parts stores, Sears, or Wal-mart.
Another way is to buy an electrical tester that looks like a pencil, made of plastic, that you insert into an electrical outlet, or touch and electrical wire, and it will light up if you have electricity in the wire.
One more piece of information:
Where is or where are the "hot" ( dangerous) wires?
If it is a wall outlet, the smallest of the two parallel straight slots in the outlet should be the "hot" (110volt) wire.
The other is the ground.
If you are testing a dryer outlet, the two side lugs are both 110 volt, and the bottom ( or top ) " L " shaped lug is the ground.
If you have a 4-slot socket, the side lug holes are hot, the top and the bottom ones are ground.
God bless your efforts.
Circuit analyzer does not show all possible problems, and tester might be defective. Use analyzer on other outlets. Buy another circuit analyzer. Buy a multimeter at local hardware, and test for voltage, and continuity, and compare with known outlet that are functioning correctly. For example outlet may be 240Volt instead of 120V. Copy following links to see typical circuit analyzer and code: http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Typical-circuit-analyzer-15.jpg http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Outlet-polarity-200.jpg
To diagnose your solution you need to check this steps that i can provide you
Check that the washer is plugged in securely
Check the circuit breaker of fuse box. "A circuit breaker provides protection for each of your electrical
circuits by stopping the flow of current if an overload or fault
occurs. When an electrical fault occurs or the load on your circuit
becomes too great, the breaker on that circuit trips and interrupts the
flow of current to that circuit. A tripped circuit breaker is still
sometimes referred to as a "blown fuse" in reference to the older
technology that circuit breakers replaced. If your home uses an actual
fuse and not a circuit breaker."
Test the outlet for current. You can test an outlet to determine if current can flow with a voltage
tester. Always test your test equipment for proper operation before
use. If you don't have a voltage tester, simply use a shop light or
other convenient electrical device. Start by making sure the tester is
working and plug it into a circuit you know is working. Note that if
you need to test a 220V outlet, these instructions do not cover that
If there is no voltage, make certain that the outlet isn't
controlled by a switch. Try all nearby switches and check whether the
tester lights up.
If you are troubleshooting an outlet that isn't working, some possibilities include:
The fuse has blown or circuit breaker has tripped. Click on the following links for more information on replacing fuses and resetting circuit breaker.
The outlet may be in a circuit with a GFCI outlet (ground fault circuit interrupt). If the GFCI outlet has tripped, it
may cause other outlets on the same circuit to lose current. Look for
an outlet that has a "Test" and "Reset" button. They are often located
near water such as in a bathroom or kitchen. If the outlet has been
tripped, unplug anything that may have caused the fault and then press
the "Reset" button.
wire connection has become loose. A wiring fault can occur in many
places, the most common include the outlet box, another outlet or
junction box the wire passes through or at the circuit breaker.
Outlets can wear out, a replacement may be needed.
4. Check that the water supply valves are turned
on 5. Inspect the filter screen. 6. Test for overheating 7. Test the water level switch 8. Test the timer control 9. Test the lid switch 10.Test the water inlet valve
Check the batteries in the unit and test it somewhere else, somewhere you know where the circuit box is. Get familiar with the unit. The lights you are testing may go to a box other than the one you think.
How old is your wiring? Is it cooper or Aluminiun? Important to Know. What type of electric panel is installed? If I were Your electrician I would locate the Point the panel feed reaches the Circuit( Either Lt Plug Switch Etc.) and track it from outlet to outlet through the complete cir. Youy could have damaged wires or Any number of problems, some times mice chew threw wires in wall. but tracking the circuit down step by step should be easy for a electrician, using a continuity tester. If you test intire ciruit you will find the problem impossible not to.
the current reading on a tester is independent of the battery in the tester. The battery is there to provide a tiny amount of current so you can read the resistance on a circuit in ohms.
What probably happened is that the useage selector switch was in the wrong position when a measurement was made for voltage of other and being in the current position created a short and the current measurement circuit was burned out.
for more details, please follow up with questions/comments
To measure the voltage at an electrical outlet requires the use of a multimeter. Always test your test equipment for proper operation before use. Set the multimeter to AC voltage. The markings may appear as VAC, AC V, or a V beneath a wavy line. Choose the AC voltage closest to the voltage you will measure. Standard current in home and businesses in the USA is in the range of 110 to 120 volts. Some circuits used for equipment such as dryers, air conditioners, electric stoves, ovens and other large equipment may use voltage in the range of 220 to 240 volts. These heavy-duty circuits can be identified by their non-standard outlet plugs. While grasping the insulated portion of the probes (never touch the metal conductor during testing) place one probe into each of the two terminals. The multimeter will display the voltage. Carefully remove the probes, being careful not to touch the metal part of the probes to anything or each other. The voltage should typically test in the range of 108 to 121 volts for most circuits. If voltage is higher or lower, professional electrical service may be required.