I have an Ideal 61-501 circuit tester. I am using it to follow up on problems noted during our recent house inspection, and correct them if possible. On one outlet noted as being "reverse polarity," I reversed the white and black wires attached to the screws, but not the set inserted into the back of the outlet, and the tester indicates "Hot / Neu. Reverse." The tester's instructions do not explain what is meant by the different possible results, nor how to correct them. Can someone provide explanations for: Open Ground Open Neutral Open Hot Hot / Grd. Reverse Hot / Neu. Reverse
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Re: Understanding Outlet Circuit Test Results
Open ground=ground wire (green) is not connected to the circuit box ground or to the earth ground.
(there should have steel rod place in the ground by the local electric company, and gtound wire is connected to that rod).
Open Neutral= same as open ground. unless you are testing 240V, which have 2 hot (110v) and a neutral (0V).
Open Hot= open 110v line (black)
hot/ground reversed= if you understand the above, then this sould be self explaintory.
same a hot/neu. reverse.
if you don't understand how electric wiring works, My suggestion is to stay out.
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Not sure either without more information. Good video, but where exactly were each wires on old device? Did red go into back of old device on black side or white side? Black side of wiring device should have brass screws and white side has silver screws. Use a tester. Tape tester leads to wood sticks. Turn power ON and test each black wire individually to each other wire. When tester lights up, that black wire is Hot wire. And the white wire it lights up on is Neutral. Black will connect to Brass screw on new outlet, and white goes on opposite side on silver screw. Then add other wires one at a time in process of elimination. Add a comment. Gene .
It sounds like a bad neutral wire. Somewhere the neutral is not properly connected. Most residential wiring operates on a 240 single phase system comprised of two seperate 120 volt legs. Connect between either leg to the neutral gives you 120 volts.connect btween the two legs gives you 240 volts. If the neutral is not present the circuit will search out the other leg to try to complete the circuit causing dimming of lights extremely bright lights and all around chaos. Check ahead of the main to see that the voltage is correct. Check each leg to neutral with a voltage tester. Have some one turn some lights on and off while checking as sometimes a load is required to get fluctuating readings. If the reading fluctuate wildly the problem is between the power grid and the panel. If not recheck on a a couple of breakers and if the readings fluctuate it is on your side of the system.
. Hope this helps
If you have been in touch with the mobile home company for a wiring schematic with no results, the best thing for you to do is purchase from your local hardware store, a 120 volt electrical tester which shouldn't cost you more than $5.00. At this point, turn off all of the breakers and turn them back on one at a time. After you turn on each one, check each room lights and outlets to find out what each breaker turns on. After checking each room, turn the breaker back off and turn on the next. As you verify each outlet, make a physical note of the location for each.
GFCI receptacles are polarized and connecting them correctly is critical. The hot wire should be black, blue, red, etc. The neutral should be white or natural gray. The ground should be green (if equipped).
Also, it's common to have other receptacles in a kitchen wired "downstream" of a GFCI so that if the GFCI trips or there is an issue with another non GFCI outlet, you're still protected.
Check all outlets in the kitchen and be sure they are wired correctly and in good shape. Unplug everything while you test. If the GFCI still trips, start looking for loose neutrals or bad ground wiring (or no ground) at the other receptacles since you said you already checked the breaker box.
A coffee maker can be a cuplrit that causes a GFCI to trip since it is a heating device and uses water, which can make them more susceptible to electrical problems. Check the microwave too (if equipped).
Check the batteries in the unit and test it somewhere else, somewhere you know where the circuit box is. Get familiar with the unit. The lights you are testing may go to a box other than the one you think.
How old is your wiring? Is it cooper or Aluminiun? Important to Know. What type of electric panel is installed? If I were Your electrician I would locate the Point the panel feed reaches the Circuit( Either Lt Plug Switch Etc.) and track it from outlet to outlet through the complete cir. Youy could have damaged wires or Any number of problems, some times mice chew threw wires in wall. but tracking the circuit down step by step should be easy for a electrician, using a continuity tester. If you test intire ciruit you will find the problem impossible not to.